Specs on paintwork

[MurphyTheElf]

I have major paintwork contamination on my CW GTI and I'm not sure how to best go about removing it. Also looking for tips on how to improve my wash regime to reduce the build-up. I wash the car fortnightly, sometimes weekly, but it has always has brown and black specs all over the body - especially the hatch.



Following the advice from this forum, I purchased the Car Care Products Enthusiasts Wash Essentials kit when I first took delivery of the car. I always use a high pressure cleaner (medium pressure, wide spray pattern) to rinse the car before starting to get rid of any bugs or mud spots and to soften the dirt. I then use Duragloss 901 as per recommendations on the bottle, but cleaning is very hard going. There is always a formidable amount of brown spots and black specs. Unless I rub very hard with the cleaning mitt, they can't be removed with regular cleaning. A soft fingernail does remove the spots, but I only did this to ensure the spots weren't permanent stains.

Upon further reading, I went out and bought a clay bar. I followed the tips on the Car Care Products website on how to clay properly, but it takes about 10-15 minutes per 20 cm2 to remove all traces of contamination. The surface turns smooth relatively quickly, but most specs leave behind light brown marks that are very hard to remove - even using a heavy hand with the clay, which I know is not recommended. There is no way I have the time to do this every week or fortnight as it would take several hours to completely clean the car.

Any idea what that stuff is, and if something like a leave-on foaming wash might help. Or if I should just clay until the paintwork is smooth, which takes much less time, and then polish off.

Either way, I'd like my regular fortnightly wash regime to be nothing more than a wash and dry. Maybe add a bi-monthly spray wax in there for good measure.

[Pepe]

What kind of Clay did you use? I did the carcareproducts detailing course on the weekend and apparently by using crap clay (ie, not the good Japanese stuff) it's a lot less effective. An example was given of using the Meguires clay and that it took ages compared to the good stuff. I know there's some upsell in that, but there was a fairly bomby old commodore we used at the course and using a good clay bar, the results were impressive.

[MurphyTheElf]

That's interesting, but I'm not convinced the clay is 100% at fault. I'm not using expensive stuff, but it does get the surface very smooth to the touch fairly quickly. It's the light brown spots staining the clear coat that seem to be the major problem. Hard claying removes it, but I'm probably removing a fair chunk of clear coat as well and I want to avoid that. Because it takes me so damn long just to do a small spot, I haven't had the time to complete an entire panel and give it a coat of wax. So I'm trying here to find out if there is a better way.

[Pepe]

Do you know what the spots actually are from?

[MurphyTheElf]

They've always accumulated on the car, but I don't park it under a tree or anywhere that would be particularly susceptible to specific airborne contaminants. I think it's just general dirt and road grime. There is very little on the majority of the car - it's mostly on the rear hatch, which would support my theory. Where-ever the spots are, they are difficult to remove.

[Pepe]

Definitely something not right there... I doubt the paint is contaminated, but I'd get it looked at by a professional paint shop or detailer that can do paint restoration. If it's just stuff you're picking up driving around and I assume you clean your car regularly, makes me wonder if there's something that's been spilt on a road you regularly travel through or something, doesn't sound right for just road grime.

Also, if it doesn't come off easily with a wash mit, I wouldn't try to "scrub" it off with just the mit, you'll just damage the paint.

[MurphyTheElf]

It's my first white car and my first hatchback. I know hatches accumulate more grime on the bum than normal cars, but I'm curious to know if having a white hatch shows up more crap than other colours. Can anybody else with a white Golf comment?

[carcareproducts]

Firstly a couple of points

All clays are not equal, if it is a cheap 'poly-clay' then it will take ages compared to a quality clay bar.
Clay will not remove ANY Clear Coat - it will remove contamination from on-top of the surface only and not remove the surface
If you car is not waxed or sealed then contamination can get a hold and stick to you paintwork very quickly and easily.

Time put in now will save time later (and make your car look better!)

So set aside a morning or afternoon and wash the car well, even with a 'strong wash' or APC to remove as much as possible.
Then get yourself a decent clay bar, you should not need to put any real pressure on the bar, it should do the work. (pressure equals the risk of marking your paint, especially with a cheap bar)
Then put a decent Sealant on (if you are not going to reapply for 3+ months and it lives outside) or a Wax (if you are going to give it some regular love)

Have a look at the Detailing Flow Chart in our 'How To' section and then if you need any recommendations on product let us know.

[DMS_Dan]

From the pic you have posted it looks to me to be metal filings. Does anyone grind or weld near where you keep the car?

[MurphyTheElf]

From the pic you have posted it looks to me to be metal filings. Does anyone grind or weld near where you keep the car?

You're right - it does look like metal that leaves behind rust stains. It's the "stains" that take a LOT of time and pressure to remove. The car spends most of its time in our driveway and there is no grinding or welding going on nearby. Like I said before, most of the residue is on the rear hatch. If it was airborne then it would settle all over the car.

Have a look at the Detailing Flow Chart in our 'How To' section and then if you need any recommendations on product let us know.

I've seen the flow chart and I even followed the claying instructions on your website. As per the instructions, after even using the cheap stuff, the tactile contaminants are removed relatively easily. I used my hand to feel the paintwork before and after and it's extremely smooth post-clay. The main issue is removing the spots.

That said, what do you recommend clay-wise and as a wax/sealant for post-claying? I have the Duragloss Aquawax from the detailing kit at the moment, but that's it. I haven't used it at all in the past 6 months because I don't want to spray it over these stains.

[DMS_Dan]

Next time before you remove anything wash it and then spray some acid wheel cleaner on a cloth and gently rub the area. If this makes the stains and the culprit go away then you have yourself a metal filing problem. Do you live near the rail line? Make sure you wash it down afterwards.

As for clay I use Dodo Gently Grey and Dodo Born Slippy lube every day. As for a sealant post clay i would say either Duragloss or Nanolex.

[Brendan_A]

Looks like industrial fall out to me. I get the same problem with my CW Golf. I get it from my work, we have a plasma and laser cutter which releases metal particles into the air. Since using a good paint sealer i don't get as much fall out sticking to the paint. I still have to clay the car every few weeks. My brother was telling me he is getting alot of black dots on the back of his CW GTI too.

[carcareproducts]

For the clay I would go with Dodo Clay and Lube

For the remaining stains I would try a Paint Work Cleanser like Lime Prime this should remove them and cleanse the paint quickly and easily.

Then if you do not want to wax regularly go for a Sealant, something like Duragloss Paint Protection Pack use this every 6 months - it should only take an hour to apply and remove. And after your regular washes just add a few sprays of your Aquawax before drying, this will 'top' your protection up and make it much harder for the 'specs' and contamination to bond to the paint.

Protection is the key...