Fitting tow bar and wiring to a Yeti with tow prep.

[joel0407]

Nice write up, i was slack and ordered the tow bar with the new Yeti,

Did you get the fully detachable bar?

How much did it cost?

Happy days.

[BJ75]

Nice write up, i was slack and ordered the tow bar with the new Yeti,

Me too. If I had access to a Doc Brown modified Delorean and a stretch of road to get up to 88mph I'd go back and tell myself NOT to order the factory towbar (made by Best Bars NZ I beleive) and just wait for HR to come out with one instead.

The Best Bars vertical hitch unit is - in summary - a total clusterf**k.

[joel0407]

Me too. If I had access to a Doc Brown modified Delorean and a stretch of road to get up to 88mph I'd go back and tell myself NOT to order the factory towbar (made by Best Bars NZ I beleive) and just wait for HR to come out with one instead.

The Best Bars vertical hitch unit is - in summary - a total clusterf**k.

I thought the word was HR made one now but it's a horizontal fit the same as there other bars?

I have no complaint at all about the Witter bar which I believe is identical to the Westfalia bar. It clips in solid as a rock and doesn't move about like a HR bar with the pin does.

Happy Days

[BJ75]

I thought the word was HR made one now but it's a horizontal fit the same as there other bars?

Indeed - this was not available when I purchased my Yeti early 2012. Hence the reference to the time-travelling Delorean (I grew up in the 80's .... "Back to the Future" pop-culture references are among my most commonly used).

Given the wiring's all done, I'm seriously considering ditching the actual bar on mine and just getting the HR bar, and trying to adapt the wiring into an Aussie rectangle plug. I could probably do this myself if they were able to be purchased separately.

[joel0407]

Given the wiring's all done, I'm seriously considering ditching the actual bar on mine and just getting the HR bar, and trying to adapt the wiring into an Aussie rectangle plug. I could probably do this myself if they were able to be purchased separately.

You can just make up an adapter. I thought I posted up a wiring diagram somewhere. You just need to consider there are left and right tail lights in the 13 pin plug. The plugs are cheap to buy online. As the 13 pin euro plug is far superior to the Aussie flat 7 pin, I considered changing my trailers over to the same and making a reverse adapter from 7 pin vehicle to 13 pin trailer. Then I thought it just too hard as my brother and old man both have the 7 pin flat as does the majority of the rest of Australia. I just carry the 13 pin vehicle to 7 pin flat trailer in the wheel well of the Yeti.

Happy Days.

[BJ75]

I just carry the 13 pin vehicle to 7 pin flat trailer in the wheel well of the Yeti.

I have one of those little adapter cords (about 20cm long with a 'squiggle' in the middle) - it came as part of the towbar prep.

I'm sure the 13 pin is superior, but as you point out - most of the rest of the country uses the 7pin, including the place I get my soil from and their free trailers to hire, Bunnings and their trailers, my cousin & my best mate - both of whom have trailers, and most of the camper trailers I've been looking at buying.

I think it just irked me that they charge so much for a towbar that's got a plug you can't use necessitating an adapter, and a hitch that's only really useful for the towball they supply.

Sure, I got a 90 degree hitch adapter that I use, but it looks stupid, and sits lower than a HR unit would I'm sure.

I think the Westfaila (sp?) and other units that completely fold away are far superior, but even then I'd prefer a square hitch since that what most bike racks use (including mine, and the one I'm planning to upgrade to soon, and probably the one I'll upgrade to after that as well).

Sorry ... bit of a rant.

[ploz58]

I had a VW towbar with my Tiguan, and it came with an adapter to go from the Euro plug to a 7 pin aussie plug.
Ill let you know when i pick the car up. Bar is supposed to be hidden when detached behind the tow bar plate?

One the subject of towing, has any developed a reasonably priced Black Box to allow trailers with LED lights to be used, without sending up fault codes, My tiggy did this and im assuming the Yeti will do the same, I hope im wrong.

[joel0407]

I have one of those little adapter cords (about 20cm long with a 'squiggle' in the middle) - it came as part of the towbar prep.

I'm sure the 13 pin is superior, but as you point out - most of the rest of the country uses the 7pin, including the place I get my soil from and their free trailers to hire, Bunnings and their trailers, my cousin & my best mate - both of whom have trailers, and most of the camper trailers I've been looking at buying.

I think it just irked me that they charge so much for a towbar that's got a plug you can't use necessitating an adapter, and a hitch that's only really useful for the towball they supply.

Sure, I got a 90 degree hitch adapter that I use, but it looks stupid, and sits lower than a HR unit would I'm sure.

I think the Westfaila (sp?) and other units that completely fold away are far superior, but even then I'd prefer a square hitch since that what most bike racks use (including mine, and the one I'm planning to upgrade to soon, and probably the one I'll upgrade to after that as well).

Sorry ... bit of a rant.

For a bike carrier you could have looked at the Witter Flange bar like I have. You can fit various balls and bike carriers. It's the norm in EU.

As for the plug. I wish the Aussie flat 7 pin rubbish thing would go away. I, along with just about every one I know has problems with them. Partly because they are on old box trailers and the like that only get use once or twice a year but mainly because, none of them are water proof and the pins eventually get squashed and don't make connection. I just hate them but continue to use them because that's what everyone else has and I'd create more of a problem for myself trying to change.

Happy Days.

[ploz58]

Got my Yeti, the tow bar goose neck when not fitted, fits in the under boot storage,
The goose neck has a large foam collar to stop rattle when the goose neck is on.
A 30 pin euro plug is fitted, i recieved a 30 pin lead with a 7 pin flat plug for my trailers, Looking on Ebay there are heaps of quite cheaply priced $12.00AUD adapters from 30 pin and with a 7 pin round socket on the other side.

[BJ75]

For a bike carrier you could have looked at the Witter Flange bar like I have. You can fit various balls and bike carriers. It's the norm in EU.

Yeah I liked the look of the Witter unit for that flange option. But I still would've had to get a square hitch adapter welded up to bolt onto that flange. I'm not a fan of the types of racks that bolt onto that flange, nor the ball mounted ones that are similar. The style of racks I prefer (including the one I ended up buying) all slide into a horizontal square hitch.

[Ryeman]

Any pics of the genuine item showing ready to tow?
Quoted $995 (max tow weight) for fitted HR on site
". $1360 dealer fitted genuine.
Mine has rear sensors, can't make up my mind, suspect the HR is heavier.

[Blue103TDIDSG]

Westfalia Towbar

Thought I might throw in my Towbar update

I went ahead and got the Westfalia towbar from the UK
Did try and get everything, the towbar and electrics kit for towbar prep from a dealer in the UK
but in the end he couldn't get the freight worked out so I bit the bullet and got the towbar from P F Jones and went for a locally supplied electrics kit from Ironbull

The good thing with the delay since all this started was that P F Jones have now dropped £30 off the freight to Oz.
So the towbar was just over £200 and freight was £150 - with conversion charges, around AUD$550 (from memory)
All happened with no fuss and it arrived a day before they said it would
Box was very banged up but all was still inside and was OK
The towbars are built like a battleship so I doubt you could do damage if you tried
Anyway, now all done, works well and relatively easy install with the instructions that came with the towbar and Joel's post

Special thanks to Joel for the instructions for dismantling the rear of the Yeti at the beginning of this thread
A real BIG help - getting that little "Airbag" cover out without marking it proved a bit of a challenge
Used a sharp fruit knife in the end and no marks at all

The electrics kit from Jeff at Ironbull was $240
Handy as he is 5 minutes down the road from me and is very helpful
Although he seems to have completely disappeared ??
Adjoining businesses said it was "personal issues"
Anyway he is not answering the phone and his Website is down as well
Which is a bit of a bummer as mine still had to be coded

Jimmy at Alba European came to my rescue and got it working but it still throws up a "light out" error
The rear sensors disconnect so I assume the stability program get changed as well
Will get the light out problem sorted at next service

So the total cost for me was $790 and was fitted without any hassles with help from my son
A long way from the $1300 I was quoted by Skoda dealer to supply the Bestbars unit, supposedly "at cost" for me to fit
or $1600 fitted - and of course you throw away the removable panel as it will no longer fit !!
Not likely !!

I ran with a large round 7 pin socket from Jeff as this is what is on our new caravan.
Just made an adaptor to fit to the flat plugs that are on all the other trailers I use (same as everyone else !!)

New van has electric brakes, so I was up for another $93 for an electric brake controller plus I had to fit it along with the battery charge cable front to back. Also ran a 75ohm cable for a camera incase I want to fit one later, Not going to pull it all apart again !! But that's another story

Anyway some photos -



I fitted the control box at the bottom of the rear compartment so that if it ever has to come out I will only have to remove the central rear panel plus a screw and then pull the side panel out to get access. Hope it never happens though



Secured all the wires with cable ties



All finished with tow coupling fitted - height is perfect for box trailer and Jurgen caraven



Coupling removed - love that panel back in place



Swan Neck fits perfectly in the storage box

[joel0407]

Jimmy at Alba European came to my rescue and got it working but it still throws up a "light out" error
The rear sensors disconnect so I assume the stability program get changed as well
Will get the light out problem sorted at next service

Hey mate,

Firstly sorry for not getting back to you on your PM but I think you have my number so call me if you still need any info.

As for the stability program. It's stretching my memory but the stability program is adjusted by just having the tow unit installed (you don't need it coded). You know by how long it takes for the traction control light to go out on the dash. It takes longer with trailer stability program. Don't quote me on these times but Pre getting mine coded, it took something like 2 seconds for the light to go out after starting but with a trailer attached, it took 5 seconds (just an example).

Coding is just so the rear park sensors turn off and you get a cool picture of a Yeti with a trailer attached on the stereo. Oh and light circuit monitoring.

As for you light out. I'm going to have a stab in the dark here and guess you didn't consider the UK wiring has left and right tail lights. To fix it, you can either just add a resistor to create a load for the missing light or use diodes to connect the 2 together as I did.

Happy Days

[Blue103TDIDSG]

Hey mate,

Firstly sorry for not getting back to you on your PM but I think you have my number so call me if you still need any info.

No prob, thanks Joel

Coding is just so the rear park sensors turn off and you get a cool picture of a Yeti with a trailer attached on the stereo. Oh and light circuit monitoring..

Sadly not with mine - you will remember the fiasco with the Zenec GPS
(http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/...att-79380.html )
Still not coded properly - never let Bryan Byrt mob have another go
so the Bluetooth doesn't work, which doesn't worry me that much, but nor does much else -
I contacted Zenec and they didn't even reply to the email
So there's one for customer service
Only gripe with GPS is it has trouble working out when it is day and night
gets "stuck" in day mode so some times it is very bright inside the car LOL
Have to manually set it to "night" - otherwise not a bad GPS

As for you light out. I'm going to have a stab in the dark here and guess you didn't consider the UK wiring has left and right tail lights. To fix it, you can either just add a resistor to create a load for the missing light or use diodes to connect the 2 together as I did.

I remembered seeing your post and the diodes are a great idea
Didn't have any diodes at the time so I just joined the left and right together so I guessing this is the problem
now have some diodes so will fit them and see what happens

Apart from that the Yeti tows fine - box trailer and boat are effortless
Have only done a short run with the new caravan and there were no hills, so not a real test
But acceleration from rest is as though it's not there - I was quite surprised
Tried it in sports mode but on the flat just put it back in "D" although it stays much of the time in 5th gear
Suspect in hilly country sports mode will work better - any advice would appreciated on this

[joel0407]

Yep, Sorry, I meant coding in relation to the tow bar. Coding actually does heaps of stuff and as many VAG Vehicles use the same software, there are heaps of of options that don't actually work with the Yeti but the options are availible in the software. I have needle sweep (all the needles on the dash like the speedo and tacho sweep when you turn the car on) and fog lights as coming home lights (it's easier on the Bi-Xenons). I had a couple of other things changed but I can't remember what they were now. I just got them done when I got the Tow coding.

Happy Days.