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Project - Val

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  • #16
    Downpipe

    AND when the sub-frame was out... in goes a 3" downpipe.



    The cat is the easy part to remove... broken bolts. Oops!



    The downpipe not so easy. Did mine through removing the driver's driveshaft, driveshaft heat shield and was able to access the two bottom ones that way using the tiniest movements to undo the bolt. Once cracked the ratchet was only clicking once due to space restrictions. But it was one click at a time until the nuts came off



    With subframe/ driveshaft off the bottom nuts are easily undone. Now the top one.... grrrr



    I was super puzzled how to get the top nut undone but ended up using the 3/8" ratchet w/ universal joint and an extension. Thank F i was able to do it as it would've been heaps harder to take off the exhaust manifold.



    Got it all off! woo! Needed to remove the bolt (below - the hex head) from behind the foot rest plate that connects the steering wheel to the steering rack to be able to lower the rack down enough to help remove the downpipe



    Old VS. New (wish it would stay that clean)

    and almost done...



    This is before the steering rack is re-attached ^^^



    All in!!!

    Apologies for the whack photos... the forum software seems to rotate them on its own. 1st pic shows clearance from the steering rack heat shield, and other two photos are from the turbo, down at different angles
    Attached Files
    Last edited by IanPGonzaga; 08-02-2016, 07:22 AM. Reason: some pics deleted?

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    • #17
      Coilover Condoms

      Adding the finishing part to the undercarriage.



      Some protection (in bluegerry flavour of course) to help keep ****e getting stuck in the grease.

      Before this job I did have to undo the down pipe again as when I first put it on I tightened it while I pushed up on it. On bulging everything else up it was hitting the heat shield above causing a rattle on startup/reverse. So undid the driveshaft, drivshaft heatshield and the 3 nuts and it dropped itself down into perfect position and clearing the heatshield. So take note if you've got the 42DD downpipe to bolt it on as it sits on the turbo bolts and NOT to push up on it as it WILL clear everything once everything's back together.

      I think that's all for under there! Everything feels great!!!

      Coilovers - nice and smooth. Not harsh or anything like that. I went flown some bunny roads and yes. It's firm but not uncomfortable. You really feel it on turns. I point the car in a corner and it goes in. Hard. I think upgrading the the back sway bar has really made this possible as well! Most noticeable is no more body roll which I had on the stock suspension.

      The difference the bushes have made? Well no more crackling noise/leaf stuck somewhere in my wheel area noise and I guess it's all helped to firm things up. I do not feel any vibrations or whatever that I've read about when people change the dog bone. I've changed both the big bushes and the round little one and vibrations are nil. This is still under 100km's when vibrations are usually felt.

      The downpipe! Oh god the downpipe. Don't know why (or if it's just me imagining) things but it sounds like the induction noise has lessened even though I put a larger filter in there however the spool and sound when lifting the foot off the throttle is brilliant. Don't even know how to describe it. Also when I hit 3.5-4k Val pulls some kind of trick and pulls even harder!!!

      Will log to see if there actually have been changes or if it's just because I've become accustomed to driving a 1.6L Civic.

      Am proud as punch knowing the only thing I paid for installation wise was the bushes. Everything else was done manually. Not even pneumatic tools. So. Time to enjoy!!!
      Attached Files

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      • #18
        Well done. Great info and steps

        Bazzle
        Prev 2008 R32 3 door DSG.
        Prev 2010 S3 Sportback Stronic.
        Now Lexus IS350 F Sport

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        • #19
          Thanks bazzle 😁

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          • #20
            Could be a mixture of your FMIC and DP which is causing the car to feel like all hell breaks loose when it comes on boost, which is a good thing!

            I'm getting some similar work done over the next few weeks; finally installing my coilovers (Bilstein PSS)/bushing kit and getting a custom FMIC done too.
            .:R32
            8L S3
            Mk3 VR6 - SOLD
            Flickr

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            • #21
              Well max g/s has gone from 191 (stock SMIC, panel filter and DP)
              to 195 (JR Cone filter, FMIC)
              to 201 (as above + 3" DP)

              so... woop! result!!!

              What coilovers are you getting drucejnr ? The B14's are pretty nice! I mean you won't get ultra mad lowz but already its too low = scraping but their performance is amazing!

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              • #22
                I've got Bilstein PSS's - have them in the R32 as well and they go pretty low once you remove the front helpers and the ride is solid but so comfy
                .:R32
                8L S3
                Mk3 VR6 - SOLD
                Flickr

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                • #23
                  i never thought of removing the helper springs in the front to help them go lower! LOL the things you learn!

                  Although they are on the lowest with the helpers on and it's defo. low enough for me! CBF going 1km/h for EVERY little height undulation on the road

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                  • #24
                    I'm just used to the somewhat "low life" I guess haha
                    .:R32
                    8L S3
                    Mk3 VR6 - SOLD
                    Flickr

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                    • #25








                      Just some pics now all suspension is set!
                      Attached Files

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