NSW Short intro - Bora not Boring

[Boranotboring]

Thanks for the membership. My story is sort of short. I’ve owned and own a few Vee Dubs, including a MkV BoraVR6 4M, a R36 estate and a Series 7 Golf R estate (Wolfsburg), but now I’m left with a Amarok V6 and BoranotBoring aka BNB.

BNB is a MkIV Bora VR6 2.8 4M sport (indigo Blue) which I purchased recently. The past owner was a very nice fellow how had a dream of tracking the car but didn’t get around to it as life got in the way. He did however load it with Bilsteins, a crack pile and a Diesel Geek shifter and some other odds and sods. Well as fortune would have it my intention was to buy it solely to track it. About 6 weeks ago it made is way to hone and I have since installed a weld J1 standard cafe. Decluttered the engine bay, added a 3” exhaust, removed a remarkable 280kgs of weight from the car. Yes; 280kgs of interior trim, A/C. Sunroof and other stuff. All weighed as we went along. That diet does not included the weight loss for the wheels and tyres as I’ve put Koya semi forgies and 255/40/18 A040 rubber on it.

The intention is to slowly build a track monster as I love VR6’s. I tracked it last week a Wakefield and it felt good, but obviously a little slow as my everyone else were In 911’s or M2s. I had a little issue with the PCV valve and retired early.

Now with the help of this Forum and member’s advice and guidance, I hope to build a real track monster. So here is the plan:

Turbo, cams, dog box or DQ500, ECU Black Emu, data logger. Adjustable coil overs. Do something about the front spindles and LCA perhaps R32. I hear they understeer, but I didn’t feel it. Just in case I’m planning. Front spoiler/splitter (that can be removed and replaced during transport. The lower lip gets ripped off every time I put it on the trailer. Some little flares, a rear wing, race livery.

I’ve read here and there that the rear suspension is not so good, but again it didn’t feel like it. I now with the weld cage the BNB is happy to sit up on three wheels in the garage with the forth unsupported.

Thus far I have a turbo Precision 6266, an intercooler and I’m on the hunt for the rest; and a lot of advice. I have a small fabrication workshop at home and can assist in kind.

My first want is a turbo manifold and intake manifold as I would like to have the turbo install started in the first week of December. If anyone has sone or has some pics of fabricated ones I can copy, that wood be great.

Well that’s the story.

[beale187]

Hi mate, welcome aboard!

I've owned a 4-5 Bora V6's and they're a great machine! Below are links to a few threads that might provide you with a inspiration and helpful advice.

Simon's 4-Motion Bora VR6

WA: Back doors 'Boring'

And correct me if I'm wrong but... Indigo Blue, with DG shifter, Bilsteins... Would this by any chance be Christian's old Bora?

[Boranotboring]

Hi mate, welcome aboard!

I've owned a 4-5 Bora V6's and they're a great machine! Below are links to a few threads that might provide you with a inspiration and helpful advice.

Simon's 4-Motion Bora VR6

WA: Back doors 'Boring'

And correct me if I'm wrong but... Indigo Blue, with DG shifter, Bilsteins... Would this by any chance be Christian's old Bora?

Sure is and a gentleman he is. I’m yet to share the photos with him.

Also, how do you upload photos?

[beale187]

100% agree, top bloke. Glad he found a good owner for that car, I know he loved it!

btw here is his main thread of his (your) car
Operation Bora Body

you can upload images using the little "picture frame" button along the top of your reply/message window

[Schalke04]

If you’re looking for some forged rods I have a few sets for sale with genuine arp bolts, probably have a few other parts you might be interested in for your build as well

[Boranotboring]

If you’re looking for some forged rods I have a few sets for sale with genuine arp bolts, probably have a few other parts you might be interested in for your build as well

Thanks great. I’ll email you and if you could give me you number that would be great. The first thing I am looking for is a exhaust manifold. I’m ready to fabricate one up, but a good already manufactured one would speed the process up a bit, Inlet manifold will then be the next task.

[Boranotboring]

[beale187]

Thanks great. I’ll email you and if you could give me you number that would be great. The first thing I am looking for is a exhaust manifold. I’m ready to fabricate one up, but a good already manufactured one would speed the process up a bit, Inlet manifold will then be the next task.

I haven't been through the process myself but have done a fair bit of research in preparation.

A good exhaust manifold may be hard to find as the ports on our VR's are rectangular (not circular). Miltek and Supersprint are the only people that I can think of that do them. However the factory manifold can be ported out a fair bit without risk of cracking.

Most of the power to be gained is on the exhaust side. Most guys don't port the inlet side because they are too close to water gullies
(or it could be bolt holes for the intake manifold, can't quiet remember which).

pm BUG_RACER on here he'll be able to give the spec's regarding porting of the head and exhaust manifold.

[Boranotboring]

I’ve done the exhaust N/A now and it sounds tough.
I’m in the market fir a turbo T3/T4 manifold and some 24v cams. I saw a set of cans for sale at Kellyville Ridge NSW and went to the Ad today and it was deleted. If anyone knows who is selling them please ask them to get in touch with me. ir if you have some get in touch.

I still haven’t mastered loading photos off my phone.

I haven't been through the process myself but have done a fair bit of research in preparation.

A good exhaust manifold may be hard to find as the ports on our VR's are rectangular (not circular). Miltek and Supersprint are the only people that I can think of that do them. However the factory manifold can be ported out a fair bit without risk of cracking.

Most of the power to be gained is on the exhaust side. Most guys don't port the inlet side because they are too close to water gullies
(or it could be bolt holes for the intake manifold, can't quiet remember which).

pm BUG_RACER on here he'll be able to give the spec's regarding porting of the head and exhaust manifold.

[HaydEn]

Header like this with a few other bolt on’s is showing good results on an R32 track car.

I’d be tossing up how fast you really want to go vs driver mod when looking at turbocharging a VR6 for circuit work. The amount of heat back there is taxing on a lot of the components even with excessive heat protection.


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[Boranotboring]

What other mods do you suggest. Mines if a 2.8l 24v so I’m .6l down on displacement already.

[HaydEn]

1.Brakes: few good options out there these days for wilwoods and stock 312mm discs. If you’ve really got 280kg out of it, it should be down around the 1150kg mark. 334mm will just be added weight for not a massive gain in stopping force.

2.Suspension: There’s plenty of bushings in 4mo’s and the rear is hard to get a decent alignment on without changing a lot of the components. Solid subframe bushings, poly/spherical control arm bushings (powerflex do a spherical in an oem sized casing) or go to tubular control arms for adjustability in the front. Change to S3/TT/MK4 R32 knuckles and control arms for more camber adjustment and a slightly better steering geometry

3.Cooling: engine oil gets hot quick, I’ve got a 15 row oil cooler and it still gets hot after a couple consistent hot laps. Brakes don’t have any ducting from factory. Also there is a lot of coolant hoses that pass over the exhaust manifolds that can absorb heat. Move the coolant ball to the passenger side and ditch all those hoses.

4.Power: Cams and internal mods are far to expensive for the gain on a 24v N/A. If you’ve got yourself the later Bora with a BDE, you can swap on a R32 head. E85 and flash tune ecu. But by that point if you are a handy fabricator you can turbocharge it for the same cost. Just as I mentioned earlier, the heat back there is ridiculous. Would need to go over the top with protection and venting to try get some reliability out of the components near the exhaust side. Hoses, electrical components and not to mention the engine itself.


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[Boranotboring]

I’ve added some answers.

1.Brakes: few good options out there these days for wilwoods and stock 312mm discs. If you’ve really got 280kg out of it, it should be down around the 1150kg mark. 334mm will just be added weight for not a massive gain in stopping force.

Brakes done.

2.Suspension: There’s plenty of bushings in 4mo’s and the rear is hard to get a decent alignment on without changing a lot of the components. Solid subframe bushings, poly/spherical control arm bushings (powerflex do a spherical in an oem sized casing) or go to tubular control arms for adjustability in the front. Change to S3/TT/MK4 R32 knuckles and control arms for more camber adjustment and a slightly better steering geometry

It has Billsteins all round. not adjustable coil overs though.
I will make CMo rear arms with spherical bearings shorty. I’m also looking at how I can put real coil overs with better mounting points (geometry) on the rear.

I do like the tubular front arms. If I could get a sample set I’d jig them up and make them myself. Need someone to volunteer theirs to measure up off.


3.Cooling: engine oil gets hot quick, I’ve got a 15 row oil cooler and it still gets hot after a couple consistent hot laps. Brakes don’t have any ducting from factory. Also there is a lot of coolant hoses that pass over the exhaust manifolds that can absorb heat. Move the coolant ball to the passenger side and ditch all those hoses.

Agree with the oil issue. I have a dry sump in one of my other cars. It would certainly be the way to go, but I’m not ready, yet. A fan and cooler unit looks like the way for now.
I’ve stripped all of the cool and houses and relocated the overflow tank.



4.Power: Cams and internal mods are far to expensive for the gain on a 24v N/A. If you’ve got yourself the later Bora with a BDE, you can swap on a R32 head. E85 and flash tune ecu. But by that point if you are a handy fabricator you can turbocharge it for the same cost. Just as I mentioned earlier, the heat back there is ridiculous. Would need to go over the top with protection and venting to try get some reliability out of the components near the exhaust side. Hoses, electrical components and not to mention the engine itself.

I have the turbo already. I think it would be the way to go. I could remote mount it under the rear seat or behind the rear axle which would resolve some weight distribution issues, but the I have Lag to deal with. Just a thought. I am definitely going with a aftermarket ECU - Ecumaster BlackEmu is my choice atm.

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