HID Install

[Guest001]

blowed if I know what's going on then.

The 6000k used to reflect the signs on the motorway quite prominently. The 4300k don't seem to do that.

I'm not a fan of blue bulbs. The 6k were quite grey. I call it the Robocop look. I decided on 4300k because (supposedly) my daughter is going to take the car off my hands and I'm trying to make it look OEM because the police hassle young people more than old grey hairs like me.

Even in the underground car park at work the 4300k just don't appear to light as well as the 6000k.

I think its in the perception. What they say is correct but what shows up may be different due to color difference. The white light may appear to be clearer but is as they say has a lesser output of light.

Im quite happy with my standard factory HID's as I dont drive at night very much.

[adzify106]

OP: What's your objection to coding the HIDs? At least it's done as proper as it can be.

I've got no objection to coding for the HID's however that is only a solution for Low-Beam and I personally don't want to just upgrade the Low-Beam and not the Main-Beam.

I've been doing some research and it seems like others have managed it.

I can't understand the issue using capacitor's? The guy from Autobarn fitted capacitors when he converted my License plate halogen looms to LEDs.

There are guys out there on the VWGolf.net forums that have upgraded their HID's both Low & Main beam without the need to touch the VCDS. Morimoto and USP Motorsports both have 'VW friendly' kits from the looks of it.

*The Morimoto kits have a CANBUS harness which contains a capacitor and resistor - yet there are issues if you have both DRL and Low-Beam's it seems to cause issues with Low-beam Auto On/Off which have been reported in the thread below which leads on to the next brand..
*The USP Motorsports has a "Built in resistor for no flickering or warning lights" which was specifically recommended here after someone had issues with the Low-Beam Auto On/Off function using a cheap kit with some eBay error cancellers:
HID Bulbs, Ballasts or Error Canceller? - Page 2
The Passat has no DRL's that I'm aware of - I only have Low-Beam and Main-Beam so the Auto On/Off issues should not apply to the B6 for either one of those kits.

So If they are fitting these with no VCDS retouching to Golf's what would be different with a Passat? I would think there would be more similarities between an AU 2013 MkVI Golf & an AU B6 Passat than a UK Skoda Octavia MkII ?

There is just so much conflicting information which is making me hesitant, I don't like committing to anything without doing my research. I'm also seeking some advice from the Forums over at Passatworld.com so as I get more info I will be sharing it for others benefit as it comes to light.

I'll listen to anything anyone has to offer and if there is a way to use the VCDS to safeguard the BCM for Low & Main beam then I'll definitely be interested to hear it.

Thanks again

[brad]

An Octavia is just a better made Golf with a fat bum. Chassis & electrics are near enough the same.

If you use resistors then you are still pulling 55w from the system & the resistor generates a lot of heat shedding the 20w. Code it in with a non-resistor kit and you only use 35w.

Do the low beams with a non-canbus HID kit & code them & do the high beams with an "error free" kit. Or just use 2x error free kits, a 35w for the H7 low beam and a 55w for the high beam.

There's a dozen ways to skin this cat but it will still be a hairy cat if you do nothing.

[adzify106]

If you use resistors then you are still pulling 55w from the system & the resistor generates a lot of heat shedding the 20w. Code it in with a non-resistor kit and you only use 35w.

Do the low beams with a non-canbus HID kit & code them & do the high beams with an "error free" kit. Or just use 2x error free kits, a 35w for the H7 low beam and a 55w for the high beam.

1. Thanks for the advice, do the 55w kits not get hot then? I've read around a few forums and have found mixed messages:
*Someone said "55 watt HID ballasts, I assume, have a much larger start-up current spike; you could enter the realm of blown fuses and/or melted wires."
*Another: "i've heard stories about 55w kits melting harnesses though"
*Then in the same breath: "HID's burn cooler than halogens do anyhow "

2. A wiring harness (connects HID directly to battery with appropriate gauged wire?) would overcome the wires melting?
2.5 Would that mean an extra 20W (like the capacitor) has to be shed in the lighting housing?

3. If I was running a 55w kit there would not be a need to use an 'error free' kit then as the BCM would register 55w present?

Thanks for your patience I appreciate the advice

[brad]

See below:

1. Thanks for the advice, do the 55w kits not get hot then? I've read around a few forums and have found mixed messages:
Yes they do get hot but I haven't an issue with this as they are doing a useful job. The resistor is just burning power
*Someone said "55 watt HID ballasts, I assume, have a much larger start-up current spike; you could enter the realm of blown fuses and/or melted wires."
I wouldn't have a clue. I know a few guys that have run 55w HIDs and not reported this issue. While a start-up current spike may blow a fuse it won't melt a wire as it's a short spike
*Another: "i've heard stories about 55w kits melting harnesses though"
*Then in the same breath: "HID's burn cooler than halogens do anyhow "
The heat that the globe produces would have no effect on the harness. If the current draw is in exess of what the harness is rated at then you'll have issues.
I have no idea (not willing to guess) what comparitive temps the bulbs run at

2. A wiring harness (connects HID directly to battery with appropriate gauged wire?) would overcome the wires melting?
i guess you could make a harness with a relay (or buy a heavy duty harness). It would even improve your halogen lights
2.5 Would that mean an extra 20W (like the capacitor) has to be shed in the lighting housing?
It would depend where you mount the ballast and the resistor.
On my car I've jammed them all into the headlight housing because there was room & it meant I didn't have to drill holes to get outside the housing. I'm not sure what the Passat looks like.

3. If I was running a 55w kit there would not be a need to use an 'error free' kit then as the BCM would register 55w present?
That sounds logical to me.

Thanks for your patience I appreciate the advice

[Guest001]

From the ink I provided if you care to read it " HID bulbs operate at a temperature similar to halogen bulbs (750 degrees Fahrenheit)."

[brad]

From the ink I provided if you care to read it " HID bulbs operate at a temperature similar to halogen bulbs (750 degrees Fahrenheit)."

I did read your link but couldn't remember where I'd read about the temps. Better to plead ignorance than make crap up.

[Guest001]

I did read your link but couldn't remember where I'd read about the temps. Better to plead ignorance than make crap up.

LOL....