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the rear quarter looks to be a different colour to the door? or is that just your phone? either way, awsome man! I bet you've missed it huh
AFAIK that's just my lame ass phone.
GUESS WHAT! I have problems. Seems you can't trust a panelbeater to do their job without buggering something else up...must have missed the lessons from that class.
Problems:
-Car starts like the battery is dead. VERY slow clicks from the starter motor and it feels like it's not going to start, until i push the throttle; then it will struggle itself into idle.
-Central locking doesn't work whatsoever. No motor noises, no air noises.
-When starting the car, the clock says 12:00 every time. While I'm in the car driving, it passes time as normal (ie if I've driven for 36 minutes, the clock shows 36 mins past 12) but when I go to start it after 10 mins of not driving it will reset.
-When I tried to start it this afternoon my driver's window went down. LOL.
So anyways, it sounds like a bad earth/shorting issue. Wouldn't you know it, I took the central locking motor out to have a looksee and it had water in it. Bingo!
I rang him this morning and asked if he knew anything about it, and he assures me everything he touched was working when it left the shop, and as such he wants me to take it back to him, leave it there so his auto elec can look at it, and I quote ''if he finds something, which i can guarantee you won't be anything to do with me, you're gonna have to wear the cost''.
Hate to say i told you so but there you go mate. Tell him to eat a d*** and fix your car. Seems a bit stupid that after he had the car for that long nothing broke but as soon as you got it back eveything brakes at the same time!
sounds like it's just a dead battery. happens a lot when cars get repaired...
not enough power to crank the central locking, auto window down is a safety feature on some cars when they're power windows and the battery is near dead.
I've tried using central locking when my car was connected to my mum's battery. I tried starting it with my mum's battery connected (through jumper cables that is) and it did start a little better. I've tested for battery voltage when the car is off and when the car is on, with the alternator charging the battery. Readings were 10.5V with the car off, 14.4V with the alternator charging while the car's on.
Manaz, I paid for everything with cash.
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
I've tried using central locking when my car was connected to my mum's battery. I tried starting it with my mum's battery connected (through jumper cables that is) and it did start a little better. I've tested for battery voltage when the car is off and when the car is on, with the alternator charging the battery. Readings were 10.5V with the car off, 14.4V with the alternator charging while the car's on.
Manaz, I paid for everything with cash.
10.5v with the car not running sounds like your battery has dropped a cell (there are six 2V cells in your standard 12v car battery). This is pretty common with older batteries, particularly if they've sat for a period of time without being used. Perfect opportunity to put a good battery in (I'm partial to Optima Yellow Tops, but they are pricey).
Regarding how you paid - fair enough. Did you get a work order (what they agreed to fix)?
Last edited by Manaz; 07-07-2009, 05:10 PM.
Reason: Adding info on Optima batteries
10.5v with the car not running sounds like your battery has dropped a cell (there are six 2V cells in your standard 12v car battery). This is pretty common with older batteries, particularly if they've sat for a period of time without being used. Perfect opportunity to put a good battery in (I'm partial to Optima Yellow Tops).
Regarding how you paid - fair enough. Did you get a work order (what they agreed to fix)?
Unfortunately I can't afford a new battery if I need to pay the panelbeater the extra 700 I owe him for the repair.
And unfortunately no, all I have received from the panelbeater is a bunch of ''should be ready this week''s and a final price 700 more than he said he ''should be able to do it'' for.
That said, if it turns out it isn't actually the battery and is an electrical earthing problem, I'm going to ring him once I've been given diagnosis by my own choice of auto electrician. If he tries to get defensive and nasty, I'm just going to tell him that he won't get his 700 because I'll use it to fix the problem.
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
Unfortunately I can't afford a new battery if I need to pay the panelbeater the extra 700 I owe him for the repair.
And unfortunately no, all I have received from the panelbeater is a bunch of ''should be ready this week''s and a final price 700 more than he said he ''should be able to do it'' for.
That said, if it turns out it isn't actually the battery and is an electrical earthing problem, I'm going to ring him once I've been given diagnosis by my own choice of auto electrician. If he tries to get defensive and nasty, I'm just going to tell him that he won't get his 700 because I'll use it to fix the problem.
Yeah, I'd be holding onto the $700. The lack of documentation works both ways, and if you have your car and his cash, given the attitude he's showing, I'd be holding that cash ransom until he wisens up.
In fact - I'd be inclined to tell him that you're going to see an auto-electrician for an opinion, and the repairs can come out of the $700 you still owe. There's no way I'd be trusting his guy at this point, particularly given the attitude he's shown after you've really done him a favour by giving him a cash-in-hand job (which I'm sure he hasn't put on the books).
Thanks for the advice mate, that's just what I was thinking of doing. I'm going to a mate's place at 6 and he's good with this stuff so I'll be able to get a detailed opinion/fix. He tells me it's definintely a dead battery, but the motor is a different issue.
Regardless, if it's not sorted by tonight I'm going to an auto electrician for a (hopefully) free diagnosis and then I'm going to ring the panelbeater back and tell him that I've sought my own advice because I no longer trust him after being provided absolutely NO documents.
Mrk Detailing, premium automotive detailing. Paint correction/protection specialist. PM me
Thanks for the advice mate, that's just what I was thinking of doing. I'm going to a mate's place at 6 and he's good with this stuff so I'll be able to get a detailed opinion/fix. He tells me it's definintely a dead battery, but the motor is a different issue.
Regardless, if it's not sorted by tonight I'm going to an auto electrician for a (hopefully) free diagnosis and then I'm going to ring the panelbeater back and tell him that I've sought my own advice because I no longer trust him after being provided absolutely NO documents.
Get the work the panel shop did checked by someone else you trust too - give my mate a call if you'd like, I'm sure he woudn't begrudge you a quick inspection to see what's gone on.
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