Hey guys, the relay that i replaced saw it working fine for a week and now i have the problem again, seems to be getting worse as it did it twice this morning on the way in to work. Again it just seems to loose power but then restarts immediately. I am goin in to have it checked on Friday hopefully, will let u know what happens. Laters
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Welcome to the new look VWWatercooled
After much work and little sleep there is a new version of the forums running on more powerful and recent hardware as well as an upgraded software platform.
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Things are mostly the same, but some things are a little different. We will be learning together, so please post questions (and answers if you've worked things out) in the help thread.

The new forum software is an upgraded version of what came before, it's mostly the same but also a little different. Hopefully easier to use and more stable than before.
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Stalling Again
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It is pretty unlikely, but it has happened to someone I know with a petrol T4 so I'll mention it anyway just in case.
The engine mounts had given up on the job of holding the engine where it was supposed to be, and sometimes the engine would move around enough to either short out something or pull on a connection hard enough to not make a proper electrical connection (sorry about the explanation, but the owner of the van was very non-technical).
Symptoms were it would just cut-out and refuse to restart, then at some later time it would start and run perfectly fine (presumably running the starter motor would move the engine enough to restore normal services).
Apparently the problem got looked at by at least a dozen different mechanics before it was finally puzzled out by one with a bit more nous than the rest.2017 MY18 Golf R 7.5 Wolfsburg wagon (boring white) delivered 21 Sep 2017, 2008 Octavia vRS wagon 2.0 TFSI 6M (bright yellow), 2006 T5 Transporter van 2.5 TDI 6M (gone but not forgotten).
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Originally posted by majimbo View PostHi, Thanx for the quick response, where is the regulator located and how do i tell? Is it an expensive bit?
It is probably easier to get a mechanic to do a fuel pressure test, to rule out a failing fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator.
The fuel pressure regular is located on the end of fuel injection rail and is regulated (via the use of engine vaccum source) to maintain constant fuel pressure and return excess fuel to the fuel tank. If the fuel pressure is not correct (too high or low) it might cause the systems you mention....just a thought.
Can you describe what is occurring in more detail - does the engine totally cut out, or struggle to run attempting to stall? Just trying to nut whether this is an electrical or fuel related issue? Could also be a vaccum ralated issue with a split hose on the intake side.
Another long shot is that your alternator is on the way out not charging sufficiently -draining current to the fuel pump....therefore not pumping enough fuel. But you would have probably have noticed this by now with a flat battery.
Cheers,
Scott
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Hey
Hey guys, Thanx for that, now that u mention it, one of my mounts had recently come undone causing some movement on the engine, will have a look at all the connections. Also when the car is running it usually just cuts out, no real struggle, will check the regulator n fuel pump tomorrow. Thanx for that guys, will let yous know what happens, Thanx again, latersMAJIMBOsigpic
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Originally posted by majimbo View PostHey guys, Thanx for that, now that u mention it, one of my mounts had recently come undone causing some movement on the engine, will have a look at all the connections. Also when the car is running it usually just cuts out, no real struggle, will check the regulator n fuel pump tomorrow. Thanx for that guys, will let yous know what happens, Thanx again, laters
If it cuts out it is likely to be electrical, which rules out the fuel pressure regulator. It would still be worth checking for faulty fuel pump -including electrical connections (and fuel pump relay?).
Also check/recheck alternator connections, earth strap connections, coil, distributor cap and rotor button - in particular check very closely the inside of the distributor cap to ensure the carbon brush is secure so it is not dancing around when resting back on the rotor button, as this will cause cutting out.
As has been suggested, excess engine movement (loose/faulty mounts) might be pulling on leads.
Another thought - does the coolant reservoir sit directly above the distributor on the 2 litre engine? If so could there be excess coolant escaping onto the distributor leading to cutting out when the engine heats up?
Cheers,
Scott
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Hey
Hey guys, got the solution as promised. It turned out to be my MAP sensor, cost me $300 bucks to replace and now its all sweet. apparently i got it for a good price too but tell that to my empty pockets, lol. Anyways, thanx for the help guys, hopefully its all good now, at least for a while. LatersMAJIMBOsigpic
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Originally posted by majimbo View PostHey guys, got the solution as promised. It turned out to be my MAP sensor, cost me $300 bucks to replace and now its all sweet. apparently i got it for a good price too but tell that to my empty pockets, lol. Anyways, thanx for the help guys, hopefully its all good now, at least for a while. Laters
Glad you got it soughted out.
I am a little surprised it was the MAP sensor as I thought it would still tend to run ....but no very well with a suspect one.
Cheers,
Scott
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