T4 Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement/Bleeding

[millencolin]

Hey guys

i own a T4 2001 TDI and have just spent a week looking for the clutch/brake/acc pedal assembly (the metal holding the pedals)
and have found one ASV villawood
(the old one was cracked and stuffed my master cylinder)

my problem is, i know how to bleed the breaks but how do i correctly replace my master cylinder and not insert air into the system......
(i am assuming its the brake oil as the hose comes from the brake oil into the master cylinder)

Any help much appreciated.

Regards
Alen

[rob64981]

First of all...

Is the pedal box a new or second hand?

If its a second hand you could do with welding it across the weak point.

The T4s are renown for breaking where the spot welds are meant to hold the bracket.

Second is there no places that could fit the box for you there fore ruling out any mistake you could make doing a job you dont know 100% how to do?
(please dont take offence)

Rob

[Jmac]

Pressure bleed the clutch mate till there is no air in the system, if you have dramas with it you can hand bleed it. Get helping hand with that, 2nd person has to push the pedal by hand to the floor when the nipple is open, close the nipple so you dont draw any air in, close the nipple and 2nd person the pedal back up, repeat till no air in system. both ways work a treat. If you are pressure bleeding then keep it to a 1 bar max, also before you do so just have a look at the integrity of the fluid res, if its at all suss, hairline cracked or looks crusty then forget the pressure bleed as it will rupture. As mentioned have the "new" pedal box welded before fitting as the same will happen again. As the pressure plate ages and gets stiffer it puts more stress on the pedal and attachments.
Cheers
Jmac

[millencolin]

thanks for your reply guys, got a second hand replacement it had a crack at the support arm as well and welding it was the first thing i did, welded the existing joints as well as reinforced it with more steel giving it another piece hopefully making it stronger, ill upload a pic some time today if i get a chance.

as for the cylinder what i did was remove the clutch assy with out removing the hoses from the master cylinder and am this arvo about to install a new master cylinder and was hoping not to stuff it up while removing the cylinder by adding air to the clutch piping,

so with most of my answers answered and ideas assured, i have one more


i realise the bleeding but where is this nupple for the bleeding of the clutch located or am i doing this at the actual master cylinder (i am assuming not)

cheers
Alen

[jets]

i realise the bleeding but where is this nupple for the bleeding of the clutch located or am i doing this at the actual master cylinder (i am assuming not)

There is two bleeding points in the line from the master cyl. to the slave cyl.
If you look behind the coolant reservoir [just to the right of the intercooler] you will see one in a tee in the tube going across.
The other is visable at the front of the transmission in a recess. You will need a deep ofset 11mm ring spanner or tube spanner. Use 6mm bore clear hose for bleeding & tighten screw to 20Nm.

[millencolin]

ok guys found the the bleeding point right of the intercooler, it was starring me in the face the whole time, i have installed the bracket and ran out of time to do the cylinder will give that a go over the weekend.....

THANK YOU very much for all your help guys.

[millencolin]

done and dusted and clutch working beautifuly 10 times better acctually, but a week later the ball joint at the gear box (from the gear stick to the gear box) has poped out i can pop it in but just comes out again, when its poped out the gear stick just flops left to right with no tension at all, at home today looking through elsa and etka how to fix it.....any ideas.


cheers
alen

[millencolin]

ok just found it,
it appears i need new bushes for the gear linckage.....

cheers
alen

[Seano]

While you're there you could do the short shifting mod that I've added to the T4 DIY & How To sticky at the top of the forum...

[millencolin]

yeah saw that, and will do but first i need to replace the one bush for the smaller ball (my gear linkage setup is the newer one with the one bush)

any way after several hours of trying to fit it still no go any hints please.....

just cant slide the bastard on (note i have not pulled anything apart)


i have had it in hot water to try and make is softer to no avail....

anyone else have any ideas....
cheers
Alen

[Golf Loon]

If you put the bush against the loop that it has to go into, hot and soft is good.

Press the ball and the rod into position against it.

Then Get a long crowbar or big screwdriver and lever aginst the box and the rod and force it in.

Its a cow of a job (especially with minimal tools), have fun.

[millencolin]

i have been trying all day.....and its not fun....will give it a shot tommorow after work,

so far i have tried to instert the bush from left to right into the metal ring was going to worry about the ball bit after but have not tried it from right to left not sure why but will give it a go tommorow, a little worried about heating it up but at 3.60 each not sure why i am worried (got to be the cheapest vw part i have purchased so far...)

cheers
Alen

[millencolin]

ok finaly as promised here are some photos of the welding repair i did to my T4 Clutch pedal assembly and still almost a year later still kickin fine.......all i did was re welded a cracked pedal assembly and inserted a piece of metal to reinforce and strengthen it all as well as that i re welded some of the bits as i found some of the factory welds cracked (as i had several pedal assembly's from other similar t4's but were not compatible as mine is a EPC and also just for the hell of it they changed the bolt config so would not fit even if i tried to cut and weld to make one.....)
hope this helps some one in the future.






cheers
Alen