Changing timing belt on Transporter

[lorraine]

Thinking of changing the timing belt as I am up to 105,000ks in my 2003 2.5 diesel Transporter.Can this be done reasonably easy or do I need special tools to hold the crankshaft and camshaft. If so, who can I buy these tools from? Cheers.

[jets]

I have not changed one yet but have read a lot about it. The tool that I think is essential is for holding the inner part of the harmonic balancer pulley when torquing the stretch bolt in the end of the crankshaft. I have made the tool myself based on the factory one.[T10025]
You will also need 3355 ring spanner, from memory a 32mm ring spanner with a slot in one side. I bought mine from a site on the net.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Spannrollenschluessel-fuer-VW-AUDI-SKODA-SEAT-Orig-HAZET_W0QQitemZ260299891512QQihZ016QQcategoryZ30922QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

[jets]

I have been asked by a member of the T4 Forum for a sketch of the tool that I have made. I am posting it here so that if anyone else would like to make one, it's available to them as well.

The handle size[1 1/2" X 3/8"] is not important, but needs to be fairly strong for the force that will be applied. I welded the position of mine so that when I hold it against the pulley I know where the slot is.

[David Morris]

Gerday Lorraine up in Goanna country a with a T4 TDI that needs belts too.
I have all the stuff in a box & still have 12K to go ,Belts timing & injector pump ,accesory drives ,water pump , & Idelers all the stuff I have been told I will need need mine is X ambo with 33k on it when I got it at Gov auction a steal .Auto double air ,ABS power glass just a long white limo for me
Done several 2.5 petrol T4s & man the crank bolt will make you grunt cracking it with a 3/4 drive & a length of pipe after you make a hub holder .
You are tempting faith if the timing belt lets go its goodbuy engine just expensive junk left behind .
Looks like a day or 2 work stripping the bullbar & Front out but I have other tasks in there so no worries .
Got the cds on repair so thats a help . Let you know when I have the job done Santa may drop in & give a hand . TC

[pjbplumbing@bigpond.com]

Hi there,
I had the belts on my T4 done early this year, local mechanic here did it for me. he was cool with VW T4 and knew his stuff. Belts wernt cheap and I think he only charged me a couple of hundred plus parts.
For all the grieve and possiblity of incorrect timing - worth it!

[jets]

Hi there,
I had the belts on my T4 done early this year, local mechanic here did it for me. he was cool with VW T4 and knew his stuff. Belts wernt cheap and I think he only charged me a couple of hundred plus parts.
For all the grieve and possiblity of incorrect timing - worth it!

I am very fussy with my mechanical work so like to do it myself. Garages are normally under pressure to do the job quickly & often tend to get a bit rough.
There are a lot of plastic clips holding pipes on the T4 & are easily broken. They are hard to replace with new ones because the parts dept. can't find them on the parts screen.

[jets]

Let you know when I have the job done Santa may drop in & give a hand . TC

Yes, please report back when the job is finished. I am interested in any problem/difficult areas that you encounter. Some close up photos would also be nice.

[David Morris]

Happy Nu year 2 all
Well just spent several days after making crank holder Mk1 that works just great Belt tensioner moving device that will need a little braceing as it started bending when i was instaling accesorie belt that was 30mm to short for my model with Denso air & big compressor for Ambo use so measure your belt before you start to avoid that problem
Did timing belts idelers injector pump belt new waterpump , oil changed engine & changed tranny oil to castrol ATFsynthetic Z $73.90 for 4 ltrs as I had lockup clutch shudder hapening with Valvoline after 20k Klm
Prick of a job to do & you need to buy the DVD workshop manuals & mark every thing after setting the crankshaft on true TDC before you start with a white paint pen .
Lost lots a skin can now swear in GERMAN no worries also working my way through OBD11 opperations on my laptop thats another story .
Cost me about $ 1100.00 so far with the parts consumables & software .
Would I do it again after what I know now not bloody likely Injectot pump timing is a trick as there are 2 tensioner pulleys that play a big part in geting theh timing spot on & are a pain to do with all the plumbing on our A/C equiped Ex Ambo T4s not to mention ABS junk I did mine leaving the bull bar on so you can tie the radiator junk to it proped up on blocks of wood so you can see & have axces to the injector pump belt tensioner & see the timing marks ..
I chose to do all this early at 70 k as ambo work is hard work being flogged from cold & flat out most times as mine was a first responce Parra resus unit from a country station in NSW & I got its history from a nice man in the buisness of saving lives .
Had 36K Klm on the clock after 3 year lease ran out & replaced with ambos with bonnets Mercs Ect as they still miss the long nosed F100 ford tanks for country work keep the drivers safe in a head on .
Sticker on the bull bar says it all that it is NOT part of the impact crumple zone & may not absorb energy as the original bumper & air bag systen is made for .
So Save your money & get someone else to do the job when the time comes finding that someone maybee the problem only you can solve .
Didnt take any pictures thay are burned into my brain will take lots of beer to deleat .
TC

[jets]

And a happy new year to you also. Well done for having a go & being successful. I am sure some of your difficulty can be attributed to working over the bullbar. I am surprised how much the job still cost you. How much did the software etc cost you?
At the mileage yours has done, I probably would have checked the idlers & water pump & if ok left them there. I spoke to the foreman at my dealership & he said that if the pump feels fine with no leaks they don't replace it. In mine I would replace it at the second belt change. Also, because of less risk resulting in engine damage, the pump timing seems to be left for a longer period.
You did not mention if you replaced the crankshaft seal. My camshaft belt was changed at 70,000km & at around 100,000km the seal was leaking. This is a job I need to do soon.
The new VW recommendation is to change the cam belt every 4 years, so depending how long you intend to keep yours the next time should be much easier.
Re the trans oil, I would do a second change after say 5/10k. As you would have found only around just under 4 litres would have drained out so there is still a couple more of your Valvoline/VW mix still in there.
I found this procedure for belts change some time ago & am posting link here to keep it in the thread.

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/VehicleSpecific/T4/Timing/Timing.htm

[Golf Loon]

Must have been a pain with the bullbar left on. The radiator support panel hinges forward and makes room for you, but not if the bullbar is there.

Did you change the waterpump? I hope you put a metal impellered one in there.

Good work on a hard job, probably cost the same or more as getting a pro to do it, but hey you learned stuff.

[David Morris]

Jobs Done

I forgot to say I fitted a new diesel filter while I had the headlights out as its the only way you can get the filter out also fitted HID lights while I was there .
Leaving the bullbar on was a bonus as I could tie the radiator & its gear to the bar after I seperated the the aircon condensor & radiator & de bugged the junk that gathers in between the two .
Got new disc rotors for the front but they have the wrong off set so have to chase up the correct ones later still have some metal left till tis throw away time pads are new .
Only thing left to do is have A/C regassed as its down on pressure & move the wheel from front to back 10 k on them now & wearing well .
Got to make a bug screen for the bull bar to many critters finding their way into the radiator leaving toxic guts behind to corode things .
Road test was good auto smooooooth again turbo blowing 12 pound boost at WFT full load Scann Gague says life is good just got to reset some speedo data with the GPS when I have nothing beter to do I need a break .

TC

[David Morris]

My Way

Read that link I think I would do it my way again if ever it lives with me that long .
The Bull bar was no problem as I straped the radiators to it giving me even more room to work in .
I did the cam belt first got it spot on then set up on tdc #1 again & did the injector pump belt droped the spring tensioner off slipped the belt on replaced the tensioner & lined up the marks reseting top & bottom Idelers till it was spot on the marks no worries .
Looks like my EX ambulance has lots of diferent custon bits there are 25 coded optional PR numbers on its paperwork some I have sussed out others I would not have a clue what they stand for .
Extra heaters & evaporators on the air con for the person in the back a monster alternator with power everything ABS cruze smaller mag wheels to keep the height down to 2.225 mtrs so it just fits under my roller door & out of the weather bilstine HD shocks & coils reset the front torsion bars down when all the ambo fraight came out & leveled it up again tare weight mostly 1088 KG on the local dump bridge with 75 Ltrs of diesel on board & 2 bodys .
TC .

[jets]

Looks like my EX ambulance has lots of diferent custon bits there are 25 coded optional PR numbers on its paperwork some I have sussed out others I would not have a clue what they stand for .
.TC .

There's a link here that should help you.

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=11455

[jets]

tare weight mostly 1088 KG on the local dump bridge with 75 Ltrs of diesel on board & 2 bodys .
TC .

I think you have the 0 in the wrong place, more like 1880kg.