T4 drive train mystery - 2.5l 5 speed manual

[T4 hobart VW]

Just a quick update - flywheel back from the machinists no fuss same day turnaround - $60 - Now fitted with new bolts ($72)
New clutch now on the beast $290 - ready for the boxing match tomorrow - gear boxing that is.

only issue is a small amount of wear on the thrust release bearing arm - the three pics show the piece of metal that clips over the arm and the thrust bearing clips onto each side and the bearing pivots on the bit of metal. Its a bit worn but doesn't seem to stop the bearing changing angle as the clutch is pressed.
Would like to change them out (2 - one each side) but can't find them listed as a part.
The are hardened spring steel by the look but couldn't cost much ...

Does anyone know if they are available or maybe this is a standard 'bit' that any clutch place would have ?

?




New lower ball joints ready to go on but mate suggested that I refit the old one first and drive it to see if the cv's are ok then put the new ones on if the cv's are ok else swap out the cv's and add the new ball joins at that time !

Busy day tomorrow !

[LogicprObe]

That arm looks OK to me.
It's the bearing itself that failed on mine!
What brand did they give you in the kit?

[T4 hobart VW]

Its an ACS bearing - hope its ok ! If I get 50000km out of it I'll be happy !

[ericcs]

once you get it running, might pay to atleast check and replace if neccessary, the 3 way plastic junction between the bottom radiator hose and the block. Son's T4 2.5 went from running perfectly to total destruction when it cracked and dumped all it's water in seconds.

[T4 hobart VW]

Interesting you should mention that - I notices a small weep from the block end of the t junction and was going to pull it out and renew the O ring - think its been an issue for a while but moving the engine may have made it leek more.

Didn't manage to get the gearbox back in yet - it sure is a jigsaw ! I read heaps of posts and think that I have to move the engine forward a bit to clear the sub frame - thought I had enough room from when I got it out but I've seen several UK posts saying that a 14 inch block between the sub frame and the sump gives enough room for the gearbox to clear the subframe!

I undid the other engine mount to get the box out but now I'm not too keen to wrestle the box back in with the engine floating so I'm going to connect the engine mount and then crank the engine forward with a ratchet strap ! All this on a couple of trolly jacks should roll forward but stay held in situ by the engine mount !
All this without stressing any of the bits attached to the engine !

fingers crossed !

[jets]

only issue is a small amount of wear on the thrust release bearing arm - the three pics show the piece of metal that clips over the arm and the thrust bearing clips onto each side and the bearing pivots on the bit of metal. Its a bit worn but doesn't seem to stop the bearing changing angle as the clutch is pressed.
Would like to change them out (2 - one each side) but can't find them listed as a part.
The are hardened spring steel by the look but couldn't cost much ...

I have read about the arm breaking on the T4 Forum, cant remember if the engine was a petrol or diesel.
Have you tried your dealer for availability & price? If they are NLA ask for the part no & google it.
At your mileage, and if you intend for long term ownership, it may be wise to replace it seeing the trouble you
will need to go to for future replacement.

[T4 hobart VW]

I checked with the local clutch and brake place and they said they had never seen a replacement for the spring steel clip , and they didn't think the wear was that bad - put some lube on it thats what they would do !!!
It doesn't appear as a replacement part in any parts manual so I did as they said and in it went today !!!

Note to would be clutch replacers - the entire process depends largely on the engine being moved towards the front of the car so the box can clear the subframe both on the way out and the way in - don't do as I did and take off both engine mounts unless your suspending the engine from above ( this would make the process a lot easier from what i can see) I ended up putting the driver side mount back on so the engine didn't fall out of the car but lowering the other side down and pulling the engine towards the front of the car. It gave me enough room to clear the sub frame and was much more controllable.

Remove ( I couldn't get to the top bolt so I took out the lower 2 bolts and tapped the mount upward gently and on reflection I think that if the oil filter was removed it would allow access to the top bolt) the mount that attaches the drive shaft housing to the engine if you don't you will end up doing it as the gearbox/diff/cv driveshaft causing snags on it repeatedly on removal and instillation.

Ive read a few articles where they jam a 14 inch piece of wood between the sump and the main subframe to push the engine forward and steady it - I think this would work well and also stabilise the engine - next time perhaps !

Remove the diff / gearbox rubber mount as its too tight to leave on but remember to partially reattach it before you put the engine mount back on or you will have to use a tyre lever to pry the mount and fit the bolts.

Its a bit of a hassle to get to the last M8 Hex bolt on the back of the gearbox to bell housing - its a bloody fiddly to get to lying on your back and you can only feel it - almost as bad to put back in - I think that VW did it on purpose to piss me off !

The box is an odd shape and for first timers its a little hard to work out a balance point - once thats done I had no problems slowly lifting and shuffling the box into place - it would be easier with 4 hands but I didn't have any mates willing to climb under the car and get greasy !

It has taken me a real long time - 3 days to get it out and 2 to get it back in but I think that the experience I have gained will cut that down to a day next time ! Its funny I spend days looking on the web for a practical guide to removal but could only find the odd tip and technique for removal likewise the manual I have is rubbish but at least it gave me the basic's !

Its do-able it takes time and the second time around it will be quicker !

Best I think to remove the engine and box together unless you don't want to de gas the aircon like me !

[LogicprObe]

Good job!
The second time around for most of these things is far, far quicker..............if you can remember!

[jets]

if you can remember!

I tend to make notes for myself for most jobs that I expect to repeat in the future, including the tools I used, even VCDS readings.
Comes in very handy if you have a very full life & a poor memory.