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Yeah don’t know about that. What concerns me most would be the capillary wearing through and making a big mess. At least you’d know for sure what you are looking at though.
Spoke to the gauge people this afternoon and they are sending another sender and loom for me to tests before we do refundage. I’m happy with that cos it took a while to fit and wire so I’m happy to give it a bit of a fault find first.
If we have a suspect electronic oil pressure gauge, or these days mostly for checking the calibration of the dash and logger, I connect up a mechanical oil pressure gauge on a short braided line. I do the same with oil temp, using a sensor that fits down the dip stick tube on a wet sump engine or reaches into a dry sump tank.
As a follow up to the manual timing belt tensioner conversion I did, here is a document that IE has to complement their kits now (as well as the youtube vid):
yep that kit will do it. Its not race specific as such to go to a fully manually tensioned roller. Track guys do it because under that kind of punishment the OEM hydraulic damper for the OE tensioner roller can fail. For example Seangti just did his belt and his hydraulic damper/tensioner was cactus straight out of the box! The manually tensioned system gets you away from that onto a comparitively failure proof system. Its dead easy to instal too and makes the OE system look like a rubicks cube. The down side though is that it is comparitively noisy which affects the "all purpose motoring" bit. Just a rumble that comes from the tensioner roller I assume. Also some say that when you go to a manually tensioned system that you have to re-tension at some point. Mines been on there for 65,000km and the tension is like the day I did it. With the manually tensioned system its nothing to pop the top plastic timing belt cover off and reach down and do that twist test so its not like you'd be surprised by it if the tension did change anyway. I dont have the blue gates racing belt though. I used OE which may be a factor?? couldnt say but if you tension it correctly to begin with I've found it to be a set and forget.
Just make sure you get the 06A transverse version. I think the spacer that goes under the tensioner roller is a different thickness on the 058's. And I'm pretty sure on the IE site you can tick the options and select an OE belt if you so choose.
Did a bit more digging on OE inlet manifolds, their shapes capacities etc which sort of harks back to this time: Sam's build thread post#1703.
So what I can conclude is that the S3, TT, Polo and Mk4 Golf Gti AGU large port inlet mani all have 1.3L plenums. I'd done water measurements of the S3 small port vs AGU large port mani and they were identical despite completely different shapes. I hadn't compared the Polo one though. It looks much narrower and more tapered towards cyl 4 and I was sure it'd be a smaller capacity plenum. The idea was going to be cut off and weld this smaller plenum to the large port mani in the hope of chasing better throttle response. But side by side with the AGU large port manifold it becomes clear pretty quickly that this is just an optical illusion. There's a dimple/relief under cyl 4 on the Polo mani to make way for the SAI air pump that makes the whole plenum seem tapered but its not, and other than that its actually a direct copy of the Golf's large port plenum, so 1.3L also.
Gary has talked about getting the plenum + runner volume in an inlet mani down around 80% of engine capacity in a single throttle bodied circuit car. So 1.3L plenum puts it at about 72% which on first look seems ok, but the problem is the way that the extra runner volume in the large port mani affects things. Each runner is 200cc which brings total capacity to 2.1L which is over 100% of engine capacity obviously. So if the biggest determinate of throttle response in a single throttle body inlet manifold is capacity between the throttle body and valves, then the large port AGU mani is at an instant disadvantage to the small port inlets just based on that.
So I'm going to have to shelve the idea of putting a Polo plenum on a large port runner as that will yield me nothing and look at whether a custom plenum is the go. 80% of 1.8L is 1.44L. If the runners are 800cc total then I'd need a plenum of around 650cc. That will appear very small against those long honking large port runners. I did also look at doing a cut and shut on the runners but the problem is they are a nice trumpeted shape along their length and a cut and shut will mangle that.
So I guess what I'm wondering is, if I retain stock runner length and their substantial 800cc capacity, is there a limit to how small the plenum can be from a turbulence/pulse tuning viewpoint where it could become detrimental to be too small in that area?
Hi mate. Yeah I spoke to Graham and he wasn't going as he'd done a few local rounds, petes car/life is all over the place and when I looked I was rostered on that whole weekend night shift so I left it. Probably would have been a good one too - wet and probably 5 runs on the 2 lap course would have been fun.
Just getting a few things sorted. Got a full exhaust system now but awaiting a bit of a retune with that as its overboosting. I'm all out of tyres too. Actually considering getting a pair of 16 inch team dynamics or something just for the front so that I can get onto the more available 225/45/16 yokos and run out the last of my 215/50's on 15's on the back.
How's your thing going?
I hurt the engine a month or so back. Haven't done anything with it since. It was expected... I think with everything else that's been going on I've not been as cautious as I otherwise would be. The bottom end was pretty rubbish when I put it back together - but I figured that I already owned it so had nothing to lose by doing so. But then I stuck on bigger heads and intake and retarded the cam timing and was regularly spinning it over 7500rpm - not a recipe for longevity. On the day at the khanacross that it started knocking it saw 7800 a bunch of times... Anyway, I've got it out of the car but haven't pulled it down yet. Am hoping that the top end is all intact and I can just build or buy a new short block to stick under it. Will probably add a few extra cubes at the same time - which won't give me any more hp, but will increase torque and bring the rpm range back to around where it was previously. If the top end is hurt then I'll seriously consider whether I go all out and build a monster big block instead.
Understandable. I'd have done the same thing. I remember in my RA23 Celica with an 18RG twin cam many years ago literally going out with the intention to break it. Somehow it never actually broke though! That's some proper revs for so much spinning mass. I kind of hope you do do a mutant build, that'd be unreal.
So my build thread may be coming to an end. Well at least for Polo 2.0 anyway. It was written off today. Yesterday when driving home from work on a 3 lane main road I went to get myself into the gutter lane to fill up at the next servo. I was in the gutter lane with a semi next to me when a pizza delivery guy pulled out from a driveway into the traffic. To be fair on him he may not have seen me as I'd come from behind the truck but then again who turns onto a wet/raining main road in peak hour out of a driveway and attempts to do it by squeezing himself in right next to a semi. Sp presented with the option of a T-bone into him or trying to wash off as much speed as I could and sort of shoot the gap between him and the truck, I ended up going for a gap (instinct I guess) and hitting the rear tyres of the semi and him at the same time. Its weird but all the impacts were tacken right on each front wheel, both of which were jammed right back against the sill panel which was bent on the passengers side. So....write off.
I'd just fitted a full exhaust system and was getting it tuned and gone back to 16's with 800+ dollars of Michelins and spent 200 bucks re jigging the oil cooler setup, all in the last 4 weeks and now pretty much dead money if I cant get the wreck back. Gutted doesnt even go near it.
So since I still cant work a budget where I can afford a ****ter for the street + a seperate road registered track car (cos I cant tow), I'm in need of a daily that I can track. Polo may not happen again. Dont know if I've got the heart to redo all that custom, individual, dollary stuff again for the second time in 3 years! It might just be a big gear sell off and then change tack.
I'm thinking Civic Type R Gen8 2.0L or RX8 atm. An Altezza rs200 would be ideal too. Has to be new enough to not be a nugget, 4 seater that humans can actually fit into the back of and fast enough out of the box initially to have me out on tracks. Oh and have to move pretty fast as I drive 30000km each year with my 100km round trip to work so cant be hanging out forever.
OR get a daihatsu mira + a Go Kart and that way I can have real fun and next time someone kills my car I can just shrug.
I know RX8 seems odd ball but how else do you get 1200kg, RWD double wishbone, 4 door that actually fits people in the back, LOW centre of gravity, cheap initial cost, lots JDM and domestic go fast bits. Yes the Renesis is a bit turd but I'm more than able to do ignition system upgrades, oil additives if need be, fuel pump, suitable exhaust myself. Maybe one day i'll LS it!
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