Sam's build thread

[Sydneykid]

So Gary do you think the fact that one side at 20 degrees out had a touch more camber than the other wheel at the same angle is likely just that I wasn't able to transfer the 20 degree lines exactly onto the ground (or line the wheels accurately with them)? That's what I'm hoping. Because at the end of the day the formulas pumped out the same final caster numbers for both sides.

It could be any number of things, it's not something that I'd stress over.

Yep I've done a bit of oil squirter research and yes it does turn out that the squirters vary. Some are longer and the orifice is smaller ( I assume that would limit peak flow but squirt stronger at low rpm) and others are a much bigger. I think the safest thing to do would be to find out what BAM 1.8T 20V squirters look like since i'll be running that wrist pin size with that piston.

Nissan uses a small oil feed exit hole in the squirter, that's what controls the oil flow. From memory around 1 mm, so I used a 1.1 mm drill to increase the flow as the longer stroke RB30 revs lower than the shorter stroke RB26, so I wasn't worried about over oiling at high rpm. The oil squirters themselves are all the same part number. If the VW ones are different then choosing the one that matches the gudgeons is logical, just be aware that they may change due to the crankshaft stoke and/or shape. Also some engines have pistons with a cut out in the skirt to clear the squirter at BTC, so best to check that on assembly. On the RB I used a copper washer to space the squirter down enough to clear the piston skirt.


Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

This is the squirters in action. Seem to be aimed more at the crown than the pin specifically, but yeah its hard to believe that the pin end wouldn't get sufficient oiling without forced in oiling. The Maxpeeding rods have a small hole in the top of the small end which would help things I'm sure.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBnQrDir-jE

these are some of the differences that are out there:
These are AWW vs AWP transverse 1.8T squirters. Big difference. Good to see the angles etc are the same but the orifice size difference is huge. I don't think I'll worry too much about it unless I find some kind of evidence that bigger squirters are needed for a power up or are installed factory in 20mm wrist pin engines.

[sambb]

So my CB auto Solutions TFSI - 1.8T 20V turbo adapter plate arrived today. Its a very schmick bit of gear. Apart from the detail of the bolt counter sinking for the bolts that fix the plate to the head, and the way that the TFSI turbo OEM mounting is retained by using angled studs that are perpendicular to the TFSI turbo flange you can see that a lot of work has gone into the port angles which is something I hadn't expected. Most of the other kits you see on the net are clearly just port holes drilled straight through the plate whereas these are angled in keeping with the heads exhaust port angle and so direct into the TFSI turbo mani at the correct angle without sharp angle changes. This one is also 25mm thick which whilst potentially making things a bit tighter against the firewall, will hopefully get around the fact that the TFSI turbo can hit the bulky drivers side engine mount casting and allow for more clocking options on the compressor housing that might make fitment of the lines and pipes easier. When I mock it up on the spare engine i'll get some pics up for all to see.

edit: hope it doesn't need port matching because it'll hurt a bit to dent that plating...…. I like the gold bullion look!

[sambb]

de studded the headfit the plate to the head
ridiculously perfect port matchingmounting gear for tfsi turbo fitted to plate

Comp housing inlet mimics Mk5/6 Golf so should be able to use their inlets easily enough.
Comp housing and wastegate clear the head/mount assembly leaving room for clocking if need be
TFSI water lines in/out line up. Oil in works too
Golf Mk6 dump fits. I'll compare its angle etc tomorrow with a spare polo ne to see if it'll get down the tunnel.

From removing the 1st stud to the last pic literally took me half an hour. Unbelievable. You get what you pay for and this was like doing Lego.

[HaydEn]

Unreal!

That port line up is what dreams are made of.




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[sambb]

Yeah it's pretty impressive. It's on the small port head at the moment so I'll be crossing my fingers when I fit it up to the big port head.
From what I can gather I'll need the tfsi oil in pipe (from oil filter housing to top of turbo) which is a direct bolt up. For the oil drain though I'll need to cut and shut a tfsi top section of its pipe to my 1.8t bottom section into the sump or just -AN it.
The turbo support bracket will be a fab job. Other than that it's all plug and play. The factory compressor outlet pipe even angles down in the same spot as OE. Too easy so far which means there has to be some scary clearance issue once it meets its new engine bay. We'll see.

[HaydEn]

I’ve been told that the exhaust ports are all the same. Was from a reputable bloke, but I haven’t seen side by side first hand to know.


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[sambb]

yeah I thought as much too. The only thing that put me off is that Ive seen flow bench numbers of large port exhausts ports and the numbers are higher than for a small port. Hopefully thats not due to the port exit but something in behind the valves thats different or it ay not even be true.

I'm starting to think that I will put this turbo on my existing oil burner as is. I'm pretty certain that its the stem seals that are gone. Even on my spare 90,000km engine the exhaust valves are coated in sticky oil. So if its not the bottom end about to slap itself to pieces I'm happy to get the IHI turbo on the motor (dump, inlet, tune) which will be quite a bit of dollars in the end, but at least then the turbo will be tried and tested and fitment wise ready to turn the key once the built engine makes it s way in. Doing it all at once will take a bout a year and I'm over waiting. I can stay with the Ko3/IHI, upgrade to a stock K04-064 which will be plug and play or ditch the whole OE thing and put a GTX2560 in there - at least I'll know where I stand as I build the other engine......of course that requires that the rods don't bend in between time so I'll have to be a little gentle in that regard - maybe not fit the plate diff box until later.

[simon k]

that's just a work of art that is..

[sambb]

On sunday ran in the last round of the NSW Hillclimbs. I nearly didn't enter because some serious disorganisation left me with a hodge podge of tyres to cobble together, a bit of an oil leak to attend to and also after last years big crash there I was a bit hesitant to run it in the wet (which they'd been predicting for a week) given that my semis are bald.
Well it turned out the leak was nothing, the weather report improved to say sunny and they were good enough to accept my entry on the Friday which was awesome.
I hadn't realised until I got down there and heard the pitlane gossip, but the track had actually been shut down by CAMS after last years big crash. The surface was deemed to broken up, the crash barrier at the fork and leading into the tree needed a rethink and they wanted the loop road at the top to be resurfaced too I guess so that cars with no brakes would have a chance of not going off into the next valley. Luckily some well connected people at the club got the council on board to resurface in fresh asphalt from the start line to the apex of the fork. The fork has new tyre stacks and conveyor belt wrap is on the other tyres now too and the tree has removable barriers leading past it too. The plan is that the club will go half/half with the council and get the top section of the track redone soon. So going from a situation where I think one of Australias oldest race tracks/events was nearly going to go the way of many others eg King Edward park, Oran park etc etc a big push from people at the club got things sorted and CAMS reinstated the license, so that's awesome for grassroots motorsport.
The advantages of the new surface are that instead of broken up edges to the track that always seemed to have water leaking out of it or moss growing out of the cracks, you know have an exact edge with white painted lines that really help you use all the track when you are howling up there. While it meant a pretty slippery start line it also meant way more confidence turning in at the fork and now I could do it flat (with a deep breath and gritted teeth). But as the tow driver pointed out, the new surface " will just get us to the crash quicker" which was pretty accurate as then you'd arrive through the same old bumps leading into the esses accept now you were going way faster than previously. There was one off (twin engine mini type thing) but driver was fine and the new barriers did their job.
So from my end I struggled off the line, had probably the biggest rushes of my life getting through the fork flat, car was singing (ran it on 50/50 water meth which seems to be the brew needed for heatsoak off the line) and the caster made it handle like a dream. My change to extra caster had cost me 0.5 degree static neg camber. The fork doesn't actually need much steering lock so I was worried that I wouldn't have enough neg camber to get through there nicely. Well it turns out from that pic at least that the front did have sufficient neg camber as the caster working with the amount of lock I had on seems to have added a bit of neg camber and I reckon that outside front looks nicely angled. That's probably the fastest/scariest corner I'll take anywhere so I think I'll be alright with the front end angles I have now for some time. There's some sweet inside rear lift in that pic (such a high res photo makes the car look slow and that's the only clue that the car is hooking!) but the outside rear looks to have eaten through all its neg camber. I have shims in the garage so that'll be remedied soon in time for Bathurst nest March.
End result was that I PB'd with a 27.11 which is basically a full second quicker than last years 28.08 and felt like a pretty respectable time considering that the second placed HSV GTS was only 6/10ths quicker which is a margin I'm not normally used to on a straight steep power track like this. Knowing that I made it all up through the corners is a good feeling when you finish the event intact too. Its a shame a couple of the guys including Andrew (metalhead) in the Corvette couldn't be there as that track is made for his car.
So all up the venue is absolutely awesome now and if anyone has been sitting on the fence I'd encourage you to give it a go.

PS to the d*&heads who went up there and pulled apart the rebuilt tyre walls looking for their size free tyres, bad luck, they all had holes drilled in them you dopes!

[metalhead]

Great work Sam, hadn't noticed that rear wheel, your car is working! Disappointed I couldn't make it, hopefully the car won't be out of action for too long.

[Sydneykid]

Nice one Sam.

Cheers
Gary

[sambb]

Shiny stuff!! X beam, Forced Pin Oiling, 20mm wrist pin (BJX OEM = 19mm), ARP 2000 rod bolts and they appear to be brutes in comparison to the OE rods out of a BAM 1.8T 20V from an S3. Note that the S3 conrods are actually force pin oiled - you can see the hole in the big end and the void cast into the neck of the rod for the gallery. No idea as yet if BJX 19mm pin end rods that we have are rifle drilled too, but at least what I have will match the S3 OEM design ideas in that respect.
Now awaiting a quote for big end bearings, main bearings, rings, mains bolts, front/rear main seals, crank/cam pulley bolts, gasket kits, timing belt/tensioner. Have also just ordered templates from the UK so that I can cut and weld my own sump baffles into an OE sump. Hopefully all that comes in at a price I can actually afford so I can get moving on things. Torn as to whether I should get the short block built by the engine shop for piece of mind and then do the rest myself or have a crack myself. I have access to all the appropriate analogue measuring gear at work, but I've never done a bottom end before and buying all the other tools needed for that may end up costing some decent coin anyway so I'm not sure. anyway fun to come!
Head is still down at the engine shop so they can vacuum test it and make sure all the valves are sealing aok

[metalhead]

Very nice!

I say do it yourself - no one else will spend the time and effort on your stuff that you will. I always figure that I would never pay someone to spend as many hours on a job like that as I spend on it myself, so I can't expect them to do as thorough a job, even if they can save some time through experience / knowledge / better tools. Plus if you spend the money on tools instead of labour, even if the cost works out to be much the same or more, next time (and there's always a next time right?) you'll already have the tools. I've never regretted taking that approach, but there's plenty of people who have the opposite opinion too.

[simon k]

Very nice!

I say do it yourself - no one else will spend the time and effort on your stuff that you will. I always figure that I would never pay someone to spend as many hours on a job like that as I spend on it myself, so I can't expect them to do as thorough a job, even if they can save some time through experience / knowledge / better tools. Plus if you spend the money on tools instead of labour, even if the cost works out to be much the same or more, next time (and there's always a next time right?) you'll already have the tools. I've never regretted taking that approach, but there's plenty of people who have the opposite opinion too.

I'm with you... I do my own (mini) engines and gearboxes and I know it's all done properly