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wet track tyre

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  • #16
    Yes it makes sense, the tyre is part of the total Spring rate as well, so the softer tyre can also absorb some of the road noise (helps it follow the road so more contact, more grip)

    Chalk will wear off too quick, even paint will be marginal but should hold up, best to aim for a little to much camber than too little

    My experiments with very low start pressure also involved lots of toe in, trying to generate more heat

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    • #17
      is that rear toe in you are referring to?

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      • #18
        wet track tyre

        I think the chalk should be adequate - they do it in timeattack and we're doing 7 laps (5x hot laps) and much higher speeds and temps than a hillclimb. Run it from side wall to sidewall across the face of the tyre. Use the thick chalk or make it thick. Should be adequate to see if you're using too much sidewall due to low tyre pressures. For this test, I'd start at say 30psi and adjust from there. I'd be cautious going particularly low on pressure for risk of the tyre coming off the rim or making the car snappy when it does run out of grip.

        Not sure if the pic will show well, but notice tyre deflection at the bottom of the front. That's turning in at a bit over 100kph, 30psi hot. I start at 24psi but have to bleed between sessions to maintain hot 30psi.

        Last edited by seangti; 15-06-2016, 08:29 AM.
        Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII
        Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline
        Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
        ** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **

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        • #19
          Originally posted by sambb View Post
          Like notso swift alluded to though its finding what pressure works best with a cold compound which is also going to become more important going into winter. So as well as working out what to run in the rain, how soon to switch to r specs as it dries and what pressures to run the R specs on, I have a bit to do. Trouble with hillclimbs is that you get so little seat time for testing stuff.

          As far as markers go, the kids chalk would do the trick wouldn't it?

          Notso swift TBH I find that running the rears higher than the fronts helps the car rotate on one of the really tight circuits I do. The closer I bring rear pressures down towards what the fronts are increases rear grip. Do you run your rears much lower as a way to get them up to temperature on the circuit? For me because temp doesn't really factor I think it might be that pumping the rears up reduces their contact patch and that's why I get less grip in the rear when I do it. When the tyres are cold maybe the only factor is mechanical grip. For example at King Edward park I started with the rears quite high thinking it'd help me negotiate 'the pinch'. Turns out that that corner was so steep with the inside rear miles off the deck (its the adjacent pic) that it didn't matter anyway but in the corner leading into the top hairpin the car was seriously loose. Dropping the rear pressures to what the fronts were had it much more manageable again. Does that make sense?
          Short hill climbs in winter - tough gig for sure!

          Try the chalk but paint marker work much better

          Within kart and track racing the convention is to increase tyre pressure in cold conditions
          This is done to minimize the tyre contact patch so that heat can be generated to activate the rubber and grip
          A smaller contact patch with heat is better than a larger cold contact patch

          You would have different objectives at the rear of a FWD
          Like you say - trying to get it to rotate
          The rears are probably not getting much heat even with higher pressures
          You are reducing the rear contact patch to encourage over steer

          Another technique is to use lift off over steer to rotate the car
          You need to be careful, don't want a heap of over steer, just enough to swing it
          You need to be quick to control it (and you'll need toe in at the rear)

          Alternatively, don't use lift off over steer, just run toe out at the rear
          As long as cornering speeds are low it will help to rotate the car
          2012.1 Skoda Octavia VRS DSG Wagon - Carbonio cold air intake and pipe - HPA Motorsports BBK 355mm rotors 6 pot calipers
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          • #20
            ^^
            Agree, if you are softly sprung at the rear you can use toe out to help it
            But stiff is faster, if you can handle it

            (Insert Benny Hill music)

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            • #21
              BTW if you cut an A050 in half (section it) you will see that the belts on the sidewall and the tread face are not contiguous, this is what generates the grip and the heat (and the A050 is not unique, a mate runs a Proddie on Hankook control tyres and they are the same and I am sure there are others, but A048R are not, they have a belt that joins both "halves")
              But this same thing is also what see's the tread move around and look like it is trying to pull off the rim in seangti's pic.
              But this is not bad!!! Unless you hit something or run something like 12 psi the tyre will not fall off. But it also doesn't mean you are getting the most grip, which is why you need to try it out and find out what it feels like for you and your set up.

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