R spec shelf life

[sambb]

How long before an r spec semi slick has had it in terms of time. I've found some second hand semi's that have been used infrequently but may be a few years old. I mean is there a cut off and they are basically good for landfill after 3 years or can they still be fine? Is there a sort of re-scrubbing process that you can go through that can aid in rejuvinating older semis?

[seangti]

Hi Sam, it really depends how they've been stored for that period. Cool and dark area?? Mine were over 5+yrs old, felt hard but still gripped. You can also buy a spray or paint on liquid which softens them and the feedback I've had is that it's good. I just forget the name... sorry. Perhaps a search is order. The fellow said it could be sourced on ebay.

The other consideration, and the bigger, what condition are the tyres in, are they off the rims? Do a very thorough inspection of the tread blocks, internal belts, etc. Or get an experienced tyre fitter to check. When I pulled off the old tyres, the inside of one had evidence of the belt having broken and some separation. Externally it looked ok.

Another mate had 12 month old yoko A050's, I can't recall if brand new or marginally worn, but had the tyre literally separate from the sidewall on the track. Full tear. So yeah be careful what you're buying.

[sambb]

Ok from what he's said they are like 7+ years old, have been stored out of the sun in a garage but in terms of track time have hardly been used. I'll be able to see them off the rims if we go ahead. He's going to measure the tread depth for me tomorrow. They are V70A's - basically the only 205/45/16 semi available until the new Toyo R888 the R888R comes out in a 4 months, which is why I'm still considering them. The alternative is to buy 2 yoko AD08R's which will give me a matched set - at least they'd be fresh and I can get them in a 215/45/16 for the fronts. That'll be $460+ though, versus less than half that for these iffy V70A's. hmmm

[seangti]

Check out the natsoft page for the kumho specials. That's how i came across mine. The yoko's grip very well too and being new versus such an old tyre, I'd be going new for piece of mind.

[sambb]

Yeah as I typed that I was pretty much answering it for myself. AD08R's with 7 years newer technology and 7 years less time on the shelf etc even though they are not proper R spec would still have to be better I think.

[tigger73]

Yeah unless you got them for virtually nothing it's probably not worth it. You've still got to pay for fitting and balancing and in reality they're old-tech tyres that are past their use by date. You've also got to factor in the "wasted" track time of running these when you could have been driving on something better.

[h100vw]

Yeah unless you got them for virtually nothing it's probably not worth it. You've still got to pay for fitting and balancing and in reality they're old-tech tyres that are past their use by date. You've also got to factor in the "wasted" track time of running these when you could have been driving on something better.

I wouldn't buy 7 year old tyres. If I had a puncture now, I wouldn't leave the brand new never used Conti on a minute longer than I had to. Assuming I had it in the car #weightsaving

[louis19]

I wouldn't buy 7 year old tyres. If I had a puncture now, I wouldn't leave the brand new never used Conti on a minute longer than I had to. Assuming I had it in the car #weightsaving

#weightreductionbro

[kaanage]

Intended usage should also play a part in the consideration. A high speed flowing track will most likely stress the tyre more making it more likely to fail if it is more than a couple of years old

I bought my first set of semi slicks very cheaply but with the proviso that they were 6 year old stock and likely to have issues if used hard. At the time, I didn't imagine that I would push them too hard, especially since I only drive a TDi. In the 3rd session at Phillip Island (anti-clockwise circuit), the driver side front tyre delaminated which ended my day early. I replaced the tyre with another from the same batch and then the passenger side front failed after a few track days at Winton (clockwise circuit).

At that point, I realized I was pushing the tyres rather hard and bought a new set and had no problems with them for 2 years on all 3 major Victorian circuits, including use in last year's Winton 6 hour relay, until the passenger side front failed at Winton on a very hot day in the last session.

All the tyres were Yokohama A048Rs (old stock were 195/55R15, new stock 205/50/R15). Grip was no problem with the older set - in fact I used the older tyres on the rear with the new ones on the front when testing early this year with no issues (I disconnected the rear anti-roll bar to keep the car balanced while running the reverse staggered set)

If I'd been hill climbing only, I think the original set would still be going.

[sambb]

Yeah thats it Greg. Its just 45-90 second bursts up the hill - not leaning on them with sustained loads and not hauling them down from really high speeds. So I don't think its a risk of death issue its just like Tigger73 said - all the fitting effort may be in vain if they simply don't grip any better than AD08R's. They'll be like $150 for the set I reckon.

[seangti]

Does running a semi slick (r compound) put you into a different division? Perhaps a consideration if you want to "compete" against street tyred cars.

I've been tempted to run the yoko's AD08r, but reluctant to if my laps times lower/grip is lower than I'm now used to which will be frustrating. It does mean I'm competing in the Performance category, due to r spec tyres and light aero. In reality I have no chance of being overly competitive with the leading drivers of either class, so might as well do it on semi's. [emoji57]

[sambb]

Yeah I think it will. Not sure whether the hillclimb classes are the same as at the track but for Type 1 road reg class one of things is that I can only have modifications in existing OEM positions. For instance a FARB is ok because the factory had one there. Even a RARB was ok because it piggy backs the axle and doesn't need modified mounts etc. They haven't found the intercooler water spray yet... What they did quibble over was the rear strut brace because the factory definitley doesn't have that but they let me through. You'd think tyres fits the 'OEM position' thing but I did notice that all the type 2's had r specs but I don't know if thats because they are all just generally more modified or if its a rule.
Even if I did go up a class I wouldn't mind - I just want to race my own times and keep getting quicker and learn as much as I can about setting up the car, not so much to 'beat' anyone else. I'm sure I'd be way quicker with proper R specs, not having to wait on the throttle on the uphill hairpins till the car gets straightened up. That would be nice and less frustrating but maybe less challenging?

[seangti]

I'd expect them to have a different tread wear rating between the categories.

[sambb]

actually the first event I did was a round of the hillclimb championship and one of guys there was/is? leading his type 1 under 2.5L class in his vrs Fabia wagon. He was on AD08R's, I know he did run federal 595 rsr's in the past and another guy had hankook rs3's. Going by that type 1 must be street leagl non R spec. They would n't be at the top of their classes and not be on r specs if they could be.
I think I've made up my mind. If I can come up with the cash before the October long weekend ill get 215/45/16 AD08R's, not quite as much cash 205/45/16 595 rsr's and if I stay poor I'll just run my current pair of 205/45/16 AD08R's on the front like last time and hang out the 4 months till toyo R888R's come out in 205/45/16. The V70A guy seemed to have his own doubts about those tyres so I let it go.