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  • #16
    Originally posted by sambb View Post
    Yeah 3'' dump isn't too big even for a K03. I agonised over whether to go 2.5'' or 3'' after reading stories about losing bottom end with the bigger pipe etc. I can honestly say I cannot fathom how anyone could say the 3 '' sacrifices bottom end. Mine spools so fast from so low, its too responsive down low if anything. Only prob with 3'' is that you cant just buy off the shelf dumps - it'd need to be a custom job. But 3'' feeding into your 2.5in system post cat would be awesome.
    3" with cats?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by h100vw View Post
      You might think that but it's not a downside. If you decide to go for a turbo change later, no need to redo the downpipe.

      Gavin
      Great advise, I went with a 2.5" to begin with into the standard catback, then ended up wanting a 3" afterwards and now have a full 3" system. I made some of my money back on the 2.5" when I sold it but if I had my time again I would be go 3" straight up, cost wise it will be only slightly more expensive, noise wise it's almost identical and leaves you with the option to go a bigger turbo later on if you decide too.
      2006 GTI Polo - Big Turbo Build - Louis19's Build Thread

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      • #18
        sorry your in NZ aren't you. you're cat exempt for that year polo maybe?? if so, straight 3'' dump coned down to 2.5'' back where the gases have cooled off.
        Yeah as far as starting mods with the exhaust vs ending with it, I always figured that the biggest limitation of the motor was the perceived small size of the turbo, but this is as much of a function of all that backpressure not allowing it to breathe to its full potential. With the exhaust opened up you get peak HP, cooler EGT's, quicker spool, better fuel economy etc. and all the other mods have more value once the exhaust is done. ie a TIP done pre exhaust would barely be felt in contrast to if done afterwards. But yeah you can come at it from the other side and say that inlet air temps are a bigger issue and after an IC the combustion temps will drop and give you more power and less egt that way. I guess doing IC first will give the car more grunt within the realms of its existing spool/power band - doing the exhaust will actually change the spool/ peak hp band completely and let the car stretch its legs more. kind of chicken or the egg really. If its only warm 3 months of the year where you are that may influence your decision?

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        • #19
          Originally posted by louis19 View Post
          Great advise, I went with a 2.5" to begin with into the standard catback, then ended up wanting a 3" afterwards and now have a full 3" system. I made some of my money back on the 2.5" when I sold it but if I had my time again I would be go 3" straight up, cost wise it will be only slightly more expensive, noise wise it's almost identical and leaves you with the option to go a bigger turbo later on if you decide too.
          Do it once, do it right, correct?

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by sambb View Post
            sorry your in NZ aren't you. you're cat exempt for that year polo maybe?? if so, straight 3'' dump coned down to 2.5'' back where the gases have cooled off.
            Yeah as far as starting mods with the exhaust vs ending with it, I always figured that the biggest limitation of the motor was the perceived small size of the turbo, but this is as much of a function of all that backpressure not allowing it to breathe to its full potential. With the exhaust opened up you get peak HP, cooler EGT's, quicker spool, better fuel economy etc. and all the other mods have more value once the exhaust is done. ie a TIP done pre exhaust would barely be felt in contrast to if done afterwards. But yeah you can come at it from the other side and say that inlet air temps are a bigger issue and after an IC the combustion temps will drop and give you more power and less egt that way. I guess doing IC first will give the car more grunt within the realms of its existing spool/power band - doing the exhaust will actually change the spool/ peak hp band completely and let the car stretch its legs more. kind of chicken or the egg really. If its only warm 3 months of the year where you are that may influence your decision?
            Awesome!
            Great advice, this has been the big dilemma; chicken / egg scenario.
            Exhaust is where I've always started on any build, and the down pipe IS part of the exhaust...

            Watch this space.

            That or, time to be responsible and hit the safety stuff, like brakes and handling next. Going fast is one thing, being able to do it and stop or manoeuvre is preferred.

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            • #21
              Trying to adult, I know being a responsible member of society is tough; decided to look into the handling, goes fast enough now, so time to look at ensuring that it can handle the jandle.
              Went online and purchased a Ultra Racing front upper strut brace and Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar. Should see these in the next couple of weeks.
              Any suggestions about the brakes? Is OEM with good pads / fluid / rotors enough? If not, where to improve?

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              • #22
                Where did you order the rear swaybay and what was the shipping to our part of the world?

                For what it's worth, I ordered a 2.5" milltek decat downpipe from the UK for £164 (they take the vat off the domestic price) plus £99 shipping to NZ. Turned up in a week but customs aholes took another hundred and something off me too. If I had only bought the DP I might have gotten away with it but there was a 008 in there too...

                Anyway, very happy with the build quality of the milltek - nicely formed at the business end, mandrel bends and the good grade stainless. Certainly goes hard coupled with the remus rear section and CustomCode phase 2 tune.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by amdeman View Post
                  Trying to adult, I know being a responsible member of society is tough; decided to look into the handling, goes fast enough now, so time to look at ensuring that it can handle the jandle.
                  Went online and purchased a Ultra Racing front upper strut brace and Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar. Should see these in the next couple of weeks.
                  Any suggestions about the brakes? Is OEM with good pads / fluid / rotors enough? If not, where to improve?
                  Std brakes are plenty good enough on the road, fluid gets neglected all the time. So be sure that's replaced. Lots of guys here are using Remsa pads from GSL Rallysport in brisbane but there's other options out there.

                  Gavin
                  optimumcode@gmail.com | https://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/for...i-;-79012.html | https://www.facebook.com/TTY-Euro-107982291992533

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by PoloGIT View Post
                    Where did you order the rear swaybay and what was the shipping to our part of the world?

                    For what it's worth, I ordered a 2.5" milltek decat downpipe from the UK for £164 (they take the vat off the domestic price) plus £99 shipping to NZ. Turned up in a week but customs aholes took another hundred and something off me too. If I had only bought the DP I might have gotten away with it but there was a 008 in there too...

                    Anyway, very happy with the build quality of the milltek - nicely formed at the business end, mandrel bends and the good grade stainless. Certainly goes hard coupled with the remus rear section and CustomCode phase 2 tune.
                    I was REALLY lucky, a member of a previous forum gets Whiteline at good prices.
                    Thank you for the feedback on the Milltek; certainly on my radar, especially with that recommendation.
                    How did you sort the Custom Code remapping Here in NZ?

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by amdeman View Post
                      I was REALLY lucky, a member of a previous forum gets Whiteline at good prices.
                      Thank you for the feedback on the Milltek; certainly on my radar, especially with that recommendation.
                      How did you sort the Custom Code remapping Here in NZ?
                      Sorry for the tardy response, been shamefully neglecting the forum for a couple of weeks or so. Speak to Gavin in the post above, he's your dealer and a bloody good guy to boot. I happened to be in Oz on a business trip with ecu in hand but Gavin may have another solution.

                      Let me know if you can sort me out with some whiteline...the handling is the next focus for me.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by PoloGIT View Post
                        Sorry for the tardy response, been shamefully neglecting the forum for a couple of weeks or so. Speak to Gavin in the post above, he's your dealer and a bloody good guy to boot. I happened to be in Oz on a business trip with ecu in hand but Gavin may have another solution.

                        Let me know if you can sort me out with some whiteline...the handling is the next focus for me.
                        Just added a front strut brace the other day.
                        Good difference, not huge, but definitely worthwhile.

                        Which part/s would you like to look into? Always happy to help.

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