GTI running too cool?

[h100vw]

Found this thread which describes my problem perfectly:

http://www.vwwatercooled.com/forums/f127/temperature-sensor-problem-87829-2.html

Is it worth going ahead and replacing my temp sensor? Only issue is if there's a code that needs resetting, I don't have the equipment to do so

Edit: If I do need a new temp sensor, Vw wants $87 for one so if there's a cheaper option elsewhere any links would be appreciated

Don't chase problems without diagnosis, it always costs more.

If your dash displays the temp, you need to use VCDS to check the input to the ECU. If that's ok, then there's no need for spending $87 on the sender.

Plenty of cheaper sensosrs on the internet, look for green ones. Don't expect it to be the fix though, if you haven't proved it's faulty.

Gavin

[louis19]

Don't chase problems without diagnosis, it always costs more.

If your dash displays the temp, you need to use VCDS to check the input to the ECU. If that's ok, then there's no need for spending $87 on the sender.

Plenty of cheaper sensosrs on the internet, look for green ones. Don't expect it to be the fix though, if you haven't proved it's faulty.

Gavin

Good point, thanks Gav.

Does anyone around the Gold Coast Region have a VCDS that could hook it up to my polo and see if anything comes up?

[Stuwey]

Just an FYI, mine was a grey 2-pin sensor.

[hoi polloi]

Any ideas as to what it could be? The car drives perfect without any fault lights, but thought I'd check if this is normal?

I'd start with relay as you're not hearing it actuate anymore... Then fuses??.

[louis19]

I'd start with relay as you're not hearing it actuate anymore... Then fuses??.

I ended up just disconnecting the battery and reconnecting as a easy quick test and it instantly started running the SAI pump again when cool and can hear the relays clicking again. However it has now gone back to the not reaching optimal temperature and dropping temp on the highway etc. Is the gti polo like other models where disconnected the battery and reconnecting resets the ECU and resets codes or can that only be done with the VCDS?

[louis19]

Hey guys sorry for the newbie question (I have never changed a thermostat before). Is either of these spots the correct location for the thermostat housing? It was the only one two spots that I could see that it could be but correct me if I'm wrong. First pic is connecting directly to the radiator in front of the battery and the other is next to the air filter under a whole heap of other tubes connecting to the side of the engine. (that's the one I thought it would be as it looks like a pain to get too and has the plastic hosing everyone is talking about)

Also is aftermarket brands ok to use for coolant such as ones from Supercheapauto permitting you mix it correctly, only use that brand and don't mix, and it's a G12+ coolant?

Thanks

[louis19]

Anyone?

[h100vw]

Anyone?

It's behind the alternator mate. I can't tell if that's your second picture though.

Gavin

[louis19]

Thanks Gav, gauging by that answer I was way off haha!

[louis19]

Hey Fellas,

Finally got the Vag com to work tonight and once I scanned got this result back. I was wondering though does this mean I should go directly for the CTS replacement or could it still be the thermostat? Vw wanted nearly $90 when I called last to enquire about the price of the CTS so if it's not that I don't want to go and buy one obviously What would you guys recommend I should do?

[h100vw]

You don't have to buy from VW. Imparts, HSY etc do them too. NEW Audi VW Green Coolant Temperature Sensor Water Temp Switch TS477 059919501A | eBay

[louis19]

Had an attempt at replacing my thermostat this weekend. Got everything apart, had the SAI pump out and coolant drained. Got the top bolt out of the thermostat housing and then could not for the life of me get the other bottom bolt out. After much frustration I thought I would call around to see the cost of someone else replacing it but after hearing it's around $300-400 I think I'll give it another shot myself!

The biggest issue seemed to be the surrounding hoses which were painful to get off without the correct tool (clamp remover)
which I'm gonna buy this week.

Any other suggestions to make this job any easier apart from removing the hoses?

Thanks guys!

[Stuwey]

I left the hoses complete, and ran multiple extensions on a 1/4" ratchet down from the top. Once pushed to the side, i worked from beneath the car to fit the new 'stat and sit the o-ring and housing back in place. Bottom bolt whist i was underneath, top bolt from the top. Super-glue the bolt into your socket and poke it down that way.

Took me about 2 hours, and I had a hoist. I don't envy anyone doing it on the ground.

I now have a scar on the back on my left wrist to remind me!

[louis19]

I left the hoses complete, and ran multiple extensions on a 1/4" ratchet down from the top. Once pushed to the side, i worked from beneath the car to fit the new 'stat and sit the o-ring and housing back in place. Bottom bolt whist i was underneath, top bolt from the top. Super-glue the bolt into your socket and poke it down that way.

Took me about 2 hours, and I had a hoist. I don't envy anyone doing it on the ground.

I now have a scar on the back on my left wrist to remind me!

Unfortunately I'll be doing it all from above. To me the easiest way looks to be to take of the smaller hose because which will at least give me access to take the other bolt out. Then I'll have to somehow try and get the stat and new o ring in and get it all back together.

Does anyone know where I can find a pair of the clamp pliers?

[h100vw]

hose clamp pliers | eBay

I did mine from above, on the ground on the A3 years back. I don't recall it being a big deal. 1/4 drive set, ball ended allens keys and a lifetime working on Helicopters and aeroplanes may have helped? The right combination of tools is always a plus. Sorry I can't be more helpful.