Installing rear sway bar...

[insanekiwi]

Hey guys!

Just got Al's second hand sway bars from Australia!

Trying to get the rear sway bar installed,

just wondering if this can be done at home without the ramp / hoist?

What sort of tools required apart from socket wrench?

Thanks.

And how big is the front sway bar install? i.e. how much would it cost at the stealer? My camber is slightly off, so I am thinking of getting front sway bar install, and take it to alignment for cradle adjustment.

[PoloGTi]

2006 Polo GTI Rear Sway Bar Upgarde.
The best cheaqp suspension mod for the polo is the rear sway bar.
Tightens feel turn in and is confenence inspiring.
Whietline make an after market kit with all the bits you need.
Part No: (BWR19Z) Rear
(BWF18Z) Front

Time to install is around 45mins.
Tools needed are:
Ring spanner set
Socket Set
Hex keys
Jack (pref not supplied jack as its not too safe)

The one thing to look out for is when undoing lower Shock mount bolt is that it will want to extend to its max length.
You may need to play around with a few diferent things to compress it back into place i just jacked the car untill they were at the same leavel.

[PoloGTi]

U beam axel mount:






This is one of the best things i have done to the car so farr bang for buck is well worth it.

[PoloGTi]

The front is quiet a larg job the whoile front sub frame needs to be dropped to gain access prob a good 3 hour job.

[MINTpolo]

Just a query about the rear bar, does anyone elses creak/squeak when going over an uneven surface like a driveway? because mine does! at least i think its the swaybar...any thoughts?

BTW, i find running it on the hardest setting when combined with the front strut brace and eibachs to be a very nice balanced setup.

[PoloGTi]

Hey i get the creak/squeak in the front but not the rear. over speed bumps is when it happens most.

[Jmac]

Mate the squeek in the fronts are a classic fault. The sleeve on the roll bar cracks and binds in the bushes due to the heat in this area from the exhaust. The Audi TT has the same drama. A good fix is take the bar off and fit bushes that are of a non wearing material which come in 2 halves. They sit on the bar and then renew the rubber mount bushes. Refit so the end result is non wearing sleeves are on the bar (inside the rubbers when fitted) if that makes sense, and when the bar flexes the non wearing bushes turn on the bar and you dont have any bind therefore no creaks. Cant remember off the top of the head where i got the bushes but will find out and repost. Great fix, worked really well on the TT and it more or less the same set up/

[DaveMack]

Yeah ... mine's a bit noisy too.

Dave

[Timbo]

Yeah, noise from the rear, but not from the front

[Funkdancer]

Does anyone have a Melbourne recommendation for someone to do the install for me and run me through settings? And possibly also order, pending outcome of separate group buy thread?

I'm much more comfortable creating a water cooled super overclocked PC than I am at doing anything mechanical with the car. The intake mod pushed my limits (and left my hands bloodied for a week --- well worth it though hehe).

[insanekiwi]

Thank you very much for your detailed description!

I think... I'll take it to mechanic and get it sorted. The car even with stock height seems low for me to get underneath and start doing things without any jacks / stands. Maybe I should borrow those from mates.


With the shock extending, it is possible to use the jack to bring it back up? (i.e. using two stands, and one jack to bring the shock up to the height for bolt mounting).

Why did the whiteline say that is needs to be done with wheels at normal ride height? Does it really matter??


Maybe I will get the front bar done when I get H&R springs fitted next year...

[insanekiwi]

All fitted in my garage!



Just about to have a shower and go for a drive!!! Very exciting!

Took me an hour... but next time, I can do in 30 mins..

Just need 2 x stands, and jack.

Mix of metric and british scale sockets / 8mm hex.

Easy!!!

[DaveMack]

You'll notice a terrific change, Kiwi - great turn-in and much less 'bum-scuttle'.

Dave

[insanekiwi]

Hey Dave!

Yeah, only had a short burst of 10km run...

but anyway I've noticed

1) less nose dive when braking
2) Sharper turn in
3) Feels more glued to road

Only up to 60km/h ride, so didn't have time to experiment any further!

Definate thumbs up!

I better recheck all the bolts tomorrow after a drive!

[insanekiwi]

For anyone who is going to install RSBs themselves.

1) Remove the OE bolts from the shocks. Remove one first from left (or the right). With the back of the car jacked up in the air (with stands, and bricks in front of the front wheels + in gear), put the jack under the shock and raise it slightly, the wheel will move as well. Before putting up, undo the bolt slightly as they are quite tight. By raising the mount, the alignment will let the bolt come out much easier.

2) With one bolt out, replace the one with the whiteline longer bolt, make sure you put the washer in. Then re-insert. Because of the jack, the alignment should be easy, and putting the bolt in should be very easy.

3) Put the rest of the sway bar mounts (that looks like '8'), and tighten. Lower the jack on that side.

4) Do the same for the right (or the left depending which one you started with). Mount '8' on it.

5) Now after finding out which way the sway bar itself actually sits (the arms of the bar should hang downwards), mount the left side of the car.

6) Mount the right.

7) Then swing the middle section of the bar up, and put the U clamps on both sides on to the car. Put them on loose initially. Align the polyurethine pieces well (these should have been pre-lubricated) so the left = right distance wise.

When you are happy with the distance, tighten them using 14mm socket wrench.

9) Now tighten all the bolts / nuts all around the mounts / sway bars.

10) All done!

11) Drive around ~100km (as recommended by whiteline) and check the nuts and bolts to see if they are tight.

there is whiteline PDF instructions, but I only used it for photos...

Any questions, please ask here!

I think tools I used 5/8" socket / 17mm socket / 14 or 15mm socket / 8mm hex. 17mm rocker / gloves / 2 stands / one jack (not the one from the car).