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Polo suspension and mounts info please.

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  • #16
    I'm running the seat lower control arm bushes, H&R springs and bilstein shocks. I have a whiteline rear swaybar to fit but haven't got around to it. I'd love to increase the front camber and add some caster, just marginally, as I reckon that'd change the nature of it's ability and stability on turn in. If anyone has come across camber or caster kits for them, would love to know more.

    With the above, I dropped 2sec's per lap consistently on the Queensland raceway sprint circuit compared to the stock set up. Everything else on the car is stock.
    Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII
    Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline
    Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
    ** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **

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    • #17
      Originally posted by Buller_Scott View Post
      i've read on other forums (bmw etc) that the rear axle beam bushes by whiteline "are the wrong material, it needs to be something other than poly" etc
      From what I read on VWVortex, the issue is that the rear suspension is a torsion beam arrangement so there is some angular deflection as well as rotation through the bushes. Rubber can handle the deflection and rebound when the deflection is removed but polyureathane cannot so the polyureathane will permanently open up, getting worse over time.
      Last edited by kaanage; 16-03-2011, 09:07 AM.
      Resident grumpy old fart
      VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

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      • #18
        Originally posted by kaanage View Post
        From what I read on VWVortex, the issue is that the rear suspension is a torsion beam arrangement so there is some angular deflection as well as rotation through the bushes. Rubber can handle the deflection and rebound when the deflection is removed but polyureathane cannot so the polyureathane will permanently open up, getting worse over time.
        hmmm. perhaps the rears are a once a year jobby?

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        • #19
          Check this post by rayray086 and the links within.
          It would probably vary a lot on how hard you drive the car - in your case, every 6 weeks?
          Resident grumpy old fart
          VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

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          • #20
            Originally posted by kaanage View Post
            Check this post by rayray086 and the links within.
            It would probably vary a lot on how hard you drive the car - in your case, every 6 weeks?
            thanks for the link.

            and hehehe.... not lately. i've been shifting at 2000rpm in the city, driving it like a grandma, with no "pleasure" drives at all.

            its funny- it really builds up soot! a beamer was tailing me the other week after around 3 weeks of babying the polo... i put my foot down, and what came out the back was just plain ****ing offensive, ahaha.

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            • #21
              Returning to this old topic, I came across this doc about the Superpro 2-piece lower control arm bushing (whilst delving into the caster issue) and I wondered if they have a similar rear bushing that would prevent the issues that rayray086 discusses?
              Last edited by kaanage; 13-05-2011, 02:09 PM.
              Resident grumpy old fart
              VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

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              • #22
                So, some advice please? Currently, I have the following chassis/suspension upgrades:

                Dogbone mount
                Whiteline swaybars front and back
                Forge Front Brace

                I also have a set of the SEAT control arm rear bushes from Jmac, but they haven't been installed. I am thinking of getting a set of KW V1's and installing the control arm bushes at the same time. Is there anything else that I should do at the same time? Any other bushings that I should look into replacing? control arm front bushes? rear beam mount bushes? strut top bushes?

                I am mainly looking for better power transfer and better cornering, but its completely for street use, and I don't have plans to track the car. In terms of power, I think its got enough for now, so looking at suspension.
                sigpic
                '07 CW Polo GTI
                'Roof::Leather::Tint
                GIAC::Whiteline RSB + FSB::Forge SB:ogbone
                Glossy B::Cubby::Honeycomb::Antenna

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by kaanage View Post
                  Returning to this old topic, I came across this doc about the Superpro 2-piece lower control arm bushing (whilst delving into the caster issue) and I wondered if they have a similar rear bushing that would prevent the issues that rayray086 discusses?
                  Fixed the link (stuffed up cut and paste on original post )
                  Resident grumpy old fart
                  VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

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                  • #24
                    Cygnus, pretty much what I have mate. Other bushes should be fine. I also have the rear shims, but I can't say how much they helped. Be prepared for new strut bearings and maybe mounts.

                    The other large factor is wheels. I think there is a great benefit in getting as much stance as possible. Obviously tyres, wheel weight and width contribute, but getting the best offset really helps.
                    Last edited by noone; 13-05-2011, 02:52 PM.

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                    • #25
                      Be prepared for new strut bearings and maybe mounts.
                      ... you mean the ones mentioned from here? For those that have the Bilstein struct bearings and mounts, what are they like? Are the Polo GTI OEM strut bearing and mounts the same as the SEAT Ibiza Cupra R one's?
                      sigpic
                      '07 CW Polo GTI
                      'Roof::Leather::Tint
                      GIAC::Whiteline RSB + FSB::Forge SB:ogbone
                      Glossy B::Cubby::Honeycomb::Antenna

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Cygnus View Post
                        ... you mean the ones mentioned from here? For those that have the Bilstein struct bearings and mounts, what are they like? Are the Polo GTI OEM strut bearing and mounts the same as the SEAT Ibiza Cupra R one's?
                        I have them. To be honest, other then making less noise, they felt no different to stock one. They do the job they are required to do
                        "If can't get behind your troops, feel free to stand in front of them..."

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by noone View Post
                          I think there is a great benefit in getting as much stance as possible.
                          You're loading up your hubs, bearings and steering ball joints and mounts with the extra leverage of insufficient offset, plus it makes your car more prone to torque steer and wander since you are increasing your king pin offset (which also makes for heavier steering). Additionally, you are losing some effective spring stiffness with the extra leverage which will increase roll, although this plus the wider track will reduce weight transfer to the outside tyres so you will get more grip.

                          If you are running spacers and your wheels will fit without them, take them off and go for a really good drive to see the effect. Maximising offset so that your tyres only just clear the components inside the arches should be the goal when choosing wider wheels.
                          Last edited by kaanage; 18-05-2011, 12:25 AM.
                          Resident grumpy old fart
                          VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

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