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I too think I have this same issue, car has done 23k, and maybe 8k since lowering. Is this perhaps due to the mismatched spring strut combo (with the H&R's) causing a massive increase in wear, or are others that have done the complete change getting this too???
I was actually thinking the sound was more likely to be the sway bar creaking in the bushes as the wheels "collapse" on full lock like they are meant too. I too have only noticed it on full lock turning right.
I'd struggle to believe it's a CV joint going already and the knock doesn't transmit back through the steering wheel - which I've felt on the odd car I've driven with buggered CV's.
I agree , its hard to imagine a CV joint this early. Sean a pint you have picked up on there about the sway bars, i have noticed more so with the larger sway bars that they tend to creep left to right, the whiteline bars have stoppers on them to stop this but they seem to still move. The bar then hits the alloy console that houses the control arm bush, it has little clearance already and even more so when the big sway is on there. There is some fine adjustment on the console. This has an elongated hole to allow movement. Seeing this more and more,i fitted 2 clamps in adition to the whiteline ones to see if it stops this creep condition, ill await the result
cheers
Jmac
Alba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
Jimmy, on the flip side of trying to stop it moving, would it be worth greasing it up so that it can move (within it's tolerance) which would stop the creaking/knock?
It's surprising how much noise will be reverberated into the car from the sway bar creaking. This was a common issue on the subaru's, though with after market rear sway bars. Add grease to the mounts and noises disappear.
I haven't spent enough time under the car to see how close the sway bar sits to other bits, all I know is it looks like a mongrel of a job to swap it over.
Track Car: 06 Polo GTI Red Devil mkII Daily: 2010 VW Jetta Highline Gone but not forgotten: 08 Polo GTI
** All information I provide is probably incorrect until validated by someone else **
The problem with allowing too much lateral movement is that this will then cause the grease to slowly be shed as it then gets smeared/contaminated. That then leads to noise/high maintenance which tends to bother a lot of people
Jimmy, on the flip side of trying to stop it moving, would it be worth greasing it up so that it can move (within it's tolerance) which would stop the creaking/knock?
It's surprising how much noise will be reverberated into the car from the sway bar creaking. This was a common issue on the subaru's, though with after market rear sway bars. Add grease to the mounts and noises disappear.
I haven't spent enough time under the car to see how close the sway bar sits to other bits, all I know is it looks like a mongrel of a job to swap it over.
I was meaning the sway creeps sideways, the creaking is during its spring action, gets pretty hot down there with the exhaust close by, thus making it dry, ive used high temp molycote on most of the sways ive doen and all seem to be coping with it so far
Cheers
Jmac
Alba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
alrighty, i have done a little research and it seems the prices VW here quote for the top mounts and bearings are insane! top mounts are about $55 EACH and about $45 EACH for the bearings!
i looked around the web and this company send to australia. these are Bilstein replacement parts, they also have Boge, Sachs and Lemforder. cost shipped here is $149, which I'm yet to find somewhere here that could beat that price, and I reckon Bilstein quality would be superior to OEM VW (Sachs I think they use for those parts). also, part numbers are the same.
see this link for the parts I found. i have been advised you need to order this x2.
Like I said, the part numbers are the same. I wouldn't post something up here that just 'looked like it would fit'. I did the research with the relevant part numbers in hand. If you look on the left hand side of that page, you will see that I have searched VW Polo GTI 1.8T. I didn't just rely on these results, I checked the parts against a VW program with every bloody part number you can think of.
FYI, the part numbers needed are:
6Q0 412 331 B - front strut mount
6N0 412 249 C - front strut mount bearing
OR, when you need a set, the code is
6N0 412 331 E, which is the same as quoting the above two codes.
i have lemforder mounts and bearings on my car. they fit just fine and look exactly like the OEM ones except the Audi/VW logo has been scratched off (and they're cheaper too!).
OK I've just done some numbers for a possible GROUP BUY.
For the set of 2 Bilstein mounts + 2 Bilstein bearings = 39 EURO excl. VAT = $63 AUD
Shipping: The guy from the company said that for the 41.65 EURO shipping cost, I get up to 25kg of stock... and each set (as above) weighs 3.12kg. SO... for 5 sets, that cuts shipping for EACH PERSON down to only 8.33 EURO ($13.50 AUD)
Simple maths there and you're paying approximately $76.50 for the full required set delivered here. Maybe a few dollars more if we pay through paypal, they always have a crappy exchange rate.
i have lemforder mounts and bearings on my car. they fit just fine and look exactly like the OEM ones except the Audi/VW logo has been scratched off (and they're cheaper too!).
OK I've just done some numbers for a possible GROUP BUY.
I'm in. With my issues to date, I'd be keen to change over my topmounts and bearings. Good work, great to see people looking far and wide for solutions like this.
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