Changing Polo GTI Front Brake Rotors...

[Blitzen]

As a few people are looking at upgrading their standard front brake rotors and pads to better items, I thought I would show people how I did mine when I was home recently.

First I started with buying some new front rotors off ECS and some new EBC Greenstuff pads from a the RDA/EBC dealer in Penrith.



Next, I raised the front of the car, placed it on stands, removed the front wheels, and found the appropriate sockets and spanners.



Then, undoing the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub carrier, remove the caliper and zip tie out of the way...Be sure not to kink the brake line when doing this...



Remove the retaing screw for the rotor, then remove the rotor. Mine was stuck in place pretty good, but I used some WD-40, a block of wood and a hammer to loosen the rotor and remove it.



Place new rotor on the hub, and screw in retaining screw...



At this stage I replaced my brake pads to the EBC Greenstuff pads.
After replacing the pads, I then remounted the caliper, then applied Loctite threadlocker to the bolts. I also gave the calipers a good clean while I could too.





After pumping the brakes to seat the pads, I remounted the wheels and went and bedded the brakes in.

NOTE: I am a qualified mechanic. I have shown you this as it is a relitivly easy job. If you don't feel confident in doing it, DON'T DO IT!! If you screw up with brakes you, or someone else could die. I take no responsibility for this if it happens...Just covering my own arse...

[break]

Nice guide there, much appreciated.

Just a few questions:

* Is the bed-in process for new rotors and pads different that the process for pads alone? I've done plenty of pad changes myself but never rotors as well.

* Can you point out the retaining screw on the rotor for me? I'm not entirely clear on where/what it is.

[jasn78]

Nice guide there, much appreciated.

Just a few questions:

* Is the bed-in process for new rotors and pads different that the process for pads alone? I've done plenty of pad changes myself but never rotors as well.

* Can you point out the retaining screw on the rotor for me? I'm not entirely clear on where/what it is.

in answer to ur 2nd question its the screw in the last pic at nearly 12 oclock

[Blitzen]

Nice guide there, much appreciated.

Just a few questions:

* Is the bed-in process for new rotors and pads different that the process for pads alone? I've done plenty of pad changes myself but never rotors as well.

* Can you point out the retaining screw on the rotor for me? I'm not entirely clear on where/what it is.

1) I just treated them the same as new pad. Just went to a quiet area and gradually got harder on the brake pedal applications.

2) As Jase pointed out. The hole that looks like a 6th stud hole with a Torx head screw in it.

[pogo_55]

Nice detailed walk through.

My Polo needs new rotors and pads and this is exactly the combination I was thinking of. Can you tell us where you got the rotors and pads from and how much?

Thanks

Kenny

[h100vw]

Kenny, The discs were from ECStuning in the states and the pads came from a local place to Ryan in Penrith.

Jimmy knows a decent place for brakes in Mt Gravett. I have their pads in my S3 and they seem pretty good. Be worth checking them for a price on discs too. Pads were $79 each end.

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=24856

Gavin

[Buller_Scott]

this may seem like a stupid question guys, but im curious:

is the whole idea of stock size slotted rotors + decent pads JUST about heat dissipation when braking aggressively for extended periods of time?

is it overkill to have this setup when looking for better brake bite/ increasing rate of speed reduction for a street car with spirited weekend driving on twisty roads?

i ask because someone who i trust (who many melburnians trust) advised me that even upgrading the pads would be overkill on a street car, and yet i would like to have better brake response on the street. not to mention that coming down the hill from buller is much gear work as brake fade settles in fairly quick....

cheers

[Blitzen]

this may seem like a stupid question guys, but im curious:

is the whole idea of stock size slotted rotors + decent pads JUST about heat dissipation when braking aggressively for extended periods of time?

is it overkill to have this setup when looking for better brake bite/ increasing rate of speed reduction for a street car with spirited weekend driving on twisty roads?

i ask because someone who i trust (who many melburnians trust) advised me that even upgrading the pads would be overkill on a street car, and yet i would like to have better brake response on the street. not to mention that coming down the hill from buller is much gear work as brake fade settles in fairly quick....

cheers

All I have to say is do it and give it a try. I personally feel that the braking was 20-25% better overall.

I have performance brake fluid ready to go in when I get home(just over 3 months now).

I don't think its overkill at all. I am very happy with this package over stock, and feel that it is spot on.
Having slotted rotors helps prevent glazing of the pad surface, aids in dissipating head and gasses, and good brake fluid will help prevent brake fade as well.

[mikepologti]

nice write up. might do a bit of home work and take my front wheels off to get a bit of a look this weekend.

[Gti Dave]

Just wanted to know whether you have experienced any brake squeeling with this set up? Been told by some people that EBC pads squeel when not warmed up. (Apologies about the spelling).

[Blitzen]

Just wanted to know whether you have experienced any brake squeeling with this set up? Been told by some people that EBC pads squeel when not warmed up. (Apologies about the spelling).

Not when I had the car. Dad now has it as I am overseas, and he hasn't said anything about it.

[Gti Dave]

Thanks for that mate. Just waiting for my pads to wear out before I go replacing the rotors and pads.

[GTIJNR]

Good write up Blitzen
Some more to add, while changing the discs, its best to scrub & clean up the surface of the hub where its meet the rotor for true run out.
Also some new pads also have bedding strip on the pad so bedding in by accelerate & slow down 10 times not really necessary. Just drive normal & try to avoid holding brake pedal while stationary at traffic lights for bout 200kms. I think later range of EBC's all have this.
Green EBC pads alone should help cure fade, definitely better bite & its perfectly fine on street duty. Best to have both axle done at once.
As for the squeal, either spray pads with anti squeal spray or paste where pad meet caliper should help.

[Buller_Scott]

thanks for the info blitzen. getting better brake pads/ slotted rotors (im gonna stick with stock size in the tdi which is smaller than you guys) is not such an uhm-ah decision when my front rotor(s) are warped anyway.

im gonna check out QFM pads- my cousin loves them.

[kaanage]

Sorry for the thread resurrection and slight detour but...

Does anyone know the part number for the bolts that hold the caliper to the hub?
I need 4 of these for my imminent brake upgrade (after killing my current setup)