Proposed Suspension upgrades

[sim]

Just wondering what you guys think about the following.

1) Bilstein B8s
2) H&R 35mm Springs
3) Whiteline Front Sway Bar
4) Whiteline Rear Sway Bar
5) Forge Front Strut Brace

[seangti]

From what I understand of the bilsteins, it'll be reasonably firm at lower speeds, but as the speed increases will be awesome. She'll handle sensational with the sways bars and bracing.

I intend to eventually run very similar, except with Koni.

May I ask where you're getting the whiteline gear from and prices, you can PM me if you'd prefer to keep it off the forum, or tell me to mind my own business if it's secret

[sim]

For the whiteline i was just going off the pricing on the whiteline.com.au website, seems you can ever buy direct from them.

[VWindahouse]

I have the H&R and Koni Yellow set up, and love the fact the konis are fully damper adjustable!

[sim]

Hmmm, damper adjustable would be nice.

[noone]

PM Quattrokid if you are getting Whiteline, he's been very helpfull for me recently and was the most price competitive.

I'd start with the rear sway and front brace, this has been a great combo for me, cheap to buy and easy to fit! Once you're used to these components, then its time to start thinking about whats next.

The H&R's with Bilstens get a good write up, but when you compare the cost to importing some Weitec's or KW's, it might be worth a look...

Hopefully I will have my AP Coilovers on soon, they've cost me <$900 including freight form the UK.

My mechanic always said that suspension changes should me small and slow, but the obvious issue with that is paying someone every time you want to make a small change.

If you start with the brace and sway, the handling will be greatly improved. If you want to have a nice drop, the H&R's get you most of the way there, then you need AP's, Weitec, theres another one, supersports or something...

Once you've picked your suspension, then i'd be doing the control arm bushes at the same time, as it takes time to get all the parts off to press the old ones out.

Awesome GTI have been helpful, but can be slow to reply. Their frieght was competitive for transit from UK.

[Stuwey]

In this order - Shocks (dampers), spings, then strut brace, THEN the sway bars if you feel you really have to.

Adding a sway bar can (and will) introduce handling characteristics that were never there from factory. Lift off oversteer isn't always your choice when you have a car with ESP. I have the Bilstein/H&R setup and if you need more than that, you need to stop and have a think about what you're chasing and how hard you're driving on the street.

[seangti]

In this order - Shocks (dampers), spings, then strut brace, THEN the sway bars if you feel you really have to.

Adding a sway bar can (and will) introduce handling characteristics that were never there from factory. Lift off oversteer isn't always your choice when you have a car with ESP. I have the Bilstein/H&R setup and if you need more than that, you need to stop and have a think about what you're chasing and how hard you're driving on the street.

Stuwey raises a good point, if you're not tracking the car you may be wasting money on stuff that gives marginal improvement, yet rarely utilised on the street.

So do it and come to the track days

[noone]

In this order - Shocks (dampers), spings, then strut brace, THEN the sway bars if you feel you really have to.

I like your theory, but if budget is a consideration (when is it not) then i'm not sure it makes sense. If you're not after the visual drop that coilovers or shorter springs provide, a rsb and front brace may provide enough improvement, removing the requirement to spend a thousand or more on other suspension parts plus the 200-400 for fitting (assuming you're not doing it yourself).

Adding a sway bar can (and will) introduce handling characteristics that were never there from factory

How is this different to changing any suspension component, even changing bushes, toe, etc are altering the original design, how do you see a sway bar making a different difference to stock than replacing the stock parts?

Not having a go, I'm newish to this and curious...

[Bubu]

How is this different to changing any suspension component, even changing bushes, toe, etc are altering the original design, how do you see a sway bar making a different difference to stock than replacing the stock parts?

Not having a go, I'm newish to this and curious...

I think what he is implying is that the Polo and most FWD cars are setup so that they understeer. Engineers have decided that for the average (and probably unexperienced) driver it is safer to have understeer. If you think about it its probably is easier to control understeer than oversteer.

Adding just a rear swaybar or upgrading the rear swaybar causes the front to bite harder while the rear has relatively little or no extra rear grip from that upgrade alone. In some cases this can cause the rear end to slide out.

[mikepologti]

if it helps you can buy the white line sway bars cheeper through repco then you can direct form the site. dont ask me why but i got them like 30 or 40 dollars cheeper with the pair.

as for suspension im going h and r suspension if customs australia can get around to find a sharp stick and poking them a few times to determine infact that they are suspension and that im not trying to import endangered animals or drugs. , followed by control arm bushes and forge front and rear strut braces.

your selection has been tryed and true with a few members i belive and suits the bang for buck niche nicely.any ideas where your getting your parts from?

[h100vw]

I had Neuspeed anti-roll bars on my MK1 GTI and it was a real handful in the wet. Probably a lot slower round corners than a std car. It was really, really twitchy.

I agree with Stuwey on this point, be careful about introducing characteristics you don't want.

Gavin

[insanekiwi]

I have had a track day with rear sway bar alone vs. with both front and rear sway bar upgrades.

Rear sway bar upgrade alone can give you mild bit of oversteer, but the behaviour of the car is not as predictable.

After front sway bar installation, I could tell exactly what the car was doing when it was sliding into corners, etc. I felt that the car was so easy to drive and correct if you were not happy with the line.

I had 16" wheels (stock) then, and now with 17". I actually preferred how the 16" handled... don't know why, it just felt more controllable..

I have H&R spring setup with stock shocks. Have frontwish bone bushings upgraded through Shane.

I haven't got a front strut, and thinking of importing one in...

[Stuwey]

I like your theory, but if budget is a consideration (when is it not)

I'd betcha with just a well set spring and damper combo you'd be going a hell of a lot quicker than with only sway bars. Bang for your buck.

Looks to me like this guy has just taken a list of things possible and said 'yes' to them all with no real consideration of what is gonna happen at each stage. Suspension is an amazing, technical, mathematical thing which needs to be planned and thought out. Spring rates need to match car weight, dampers need to match the natural frequency of the undampened vehicle, and sway bars are the last mod which you should be using to 'trim' the vehicle.

Suspension: http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets5.html

Shocks (dampers): http://farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html

Read and learn, guys.

[Jmac]

I had Neuspeed anti-roll bars on my MK1 GTI and it was a real handful in the wet. Probably a lot slower round corners than a std car. It was really, really twitchy.

I agree with Stuwey on this point, be careful about introducing characteristics you don't want.

Gavin

Yeah i try to steer people away from the hard settings on the bars, this can be a handful if your not careful, could see yourself skidding on your lid for sure
Cheers
Jmac