Noone, are you still running the N249 bypass, and have there been any issues?
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Still bypassed, but will put it back as the N75J worked a treat for me.
I'm not 100%, but I think that both the N249 bypass and N75 change are trying to fix the same issue on chipped cars (electronic boost dumping when you don't want it).
I think the bypass is a good, quick way to see if it will fix wavering boost.
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Originally posted by noone View PostAs the turbo uses the exhaust gasses to compress fresh air, I'm assuming that boosting over the turbo's efficiency range may actually not yield more power?MODS- TOO MANY
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Originally posted by vwthunder View PostI can tell you the car makes a lot more power at 22Psi than it does only peaking at 17"If can't get behind your troops, feel free to stand in front of them..."
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Originally posted by Blitzen View PostWhen it starts punching holes in the pistons you won't be going anywhere too quickly...
Maybe because you dont have a boost gauge your not sure of how much boost your actually running
Can some other people with chipped cars and boost gauges help me out hereMODS- TOO MANY
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That is no bunnings valve you salad makers.. lol
That is an industrial air tap capable of holding over 150psi...
Instead of removing it, just leave it open as the internal diameter is the same as the stock hoses... No need to remove it... it wont leak as its good for 150psi.. Its not pretty but its effective..
Basically does the same thing as the festo valve.
I noticed with the stock N75 that if it was closed too much the ECU would bleed all boost through diverter valve..
With the N75J, you could just about close it off and the car would boost to 22psi+ and go like a rocket..
I also did notice that with the N75J, with the valve open it would only boost to 17psi..
I think that if you want more boost keep the stock N75 valve in and it will boost to 22psi (spike) and stabilise to about 18psi..
The N75J seems to boost less with the valve fully open.. hence the use of the air tap..Last edited by Petrina Polo; 28-09-2009, 10:30 PM.
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when i first drove my car i was cheering for weeks. then when i fitted a boost gauge i was surprised it spiked at 22psi then settled around 15-17psi. later i fitted a forge front mount and it smoothed out the power. it now spike to 18 psi and settles to 14-16psi
still alot of funAPR V2 | APR Downpipe + custom catback | APR solid mount | FMIC | SEAT intake | BMC filter | FORGE 007DV | KW v1 | WHITELINE RSB
139Kw | 271.8Nm atw - At a new home
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Originally posted by Petrina Polo View PostThat is no bunnings valve you salad makers.. lol
That is an industrial air tap capable of holding over 150psi...
Instead of removing it, just leave it open as the internal diameter is the same as the stock hoses... No need to remove it... it wont leak as its good for 150psi.. Its not pretty but its effective..
Basically does the same thing as the festo valve.
The N75J seems to boost less with the valve fully open.. hence the use of the air tap..
Maybe I need it back on, one thing, who put it on and whos idea was it Petrina, is it cheating running 22psi lol, if the APR flash is not meant to run that highMODS- TOO MANY
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Originally posted by vwthunder View PostI removed it totally and the car is now only boosting to about 17Psi
Maybe I need it back on, one thing, who put it on and whos idea was it Petrina, is it cheating running 22psi lol, if the APR flash is not meant to run that high
The APR program does run that high with exhaust and intercooler mods, it just spikes and drops to about 18psi (stock N75)..
The N75J doesnt boost as hard but its more controlled..
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Originally posted by bfeboi View Postwhen i first drove my car i was cheering for weeks. then when i fitted a boost gauge i was surprised it spiked at 22psi then settled around 15-17psi. later i fitted a forge front mount and it smoothed out the power. it now spike to 18 psi and settles to 14-16psi
still alot of fun
Plautos even had dyno graphs proving it was smoother..
The stock N75 is known to fluctuate boost a little under chipped cars. the air tap stabilises it a bit..
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