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What's a good rpm to shift to save fuel?

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  • What's a good rpm to shift to save fuel?

    I hear there were specific rev ranges where people shift to achieve better fuel efficiency...

    What's the recommended rpm in our polos? or rpm where you have found to save fuel?

  • #2
    Well, given the motor starts making its maximum torque from 1,950 rpm, you could change up from as low as that -- probably a bit higher, to keep it properly in its power band
    2015 White German SUV
    2013 White German hatch
    2011 Silver French hot hatch
    2008 TR Golf GT TDI DSG

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    • #3
      In my opinion anything under 6000rpm. But then again i have a different philosophy on the whole fuel debate then most people.
      For Sale 2006 VW Polo GTI
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      • #4
        i got 600 km's out of a tank shifting at roughly 2600 rpm... but it has a lot to do with your driving style. the lower the rpm.. the less fuel... the more efficient... as long as your not overloading your engine ie shifting way to early... put it this way when you feel the turbo start to spool change gears...

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        • #5
          Originally posted by WRXconvert View Post
          i got 600 km's out of a tank shifting at roughly 2600 rpm... but it has a lot to do with your driving style. the lower the rpm.. the less fuel... the more efficient... as long as your not overloading your engine ie shifting way to early... put it this way when you feel the turbo start to spool change gears...
          I have often achieved 600 MILES+ (965 km) on a tank, I normally shift before 2000 rpm but the Bluemotion is designed for that!
          2008 Bluemotion 2 (2009 year spec) 5 door Anthracite Grey

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          • #6
            About 870km is as far as I've gone on a tank - I was hoping for better on the Hume Hwy run from Melbourne to Sydney My TDi really needs a taller/extra top gear.

            Around town I usually shift up at about 2000rpm - 2200rpm going up inclines, about 1500rpm on flats and maybe 1200rpm on declines if not trying to beat a light. I get about 5.0-5.5 l/100km in traffic this way.

            But again, mine is a TDi (1.9 PD)
            Resident grumpy old fart
            VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

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            • #7
              Originally posted by kaanage View Post
              About 870km is as far as I've gone on a tank - I was hoping for better on the Hume Hwy run from Melbourne to Sydney My TDi really needs a taller/extra top gear.

              Around town I usually shift up at about 2000rpm - 2200rpm going up inclines, about 1500rpm on flats and maybe 1200rpm on declines if not trying to beat a light. I get about 5.0-5.5 l/100km in traffic this way.

              But again, mine is a TDi (1.9 PD)
              Must be a pain in the bum shifting all the time

              You need a DSG lol
              MODS- TOO MANY

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              • #8
                Nah.

                I'm busy concentrating on what the traffic is doing up ahead so I know whether to shift to use the overrun (since diesels don't use any fuel when engine braking) - up shift even if going up hill if it looks like I only need to slow for a bit (traffic ahead but I can see it easing) or down shift to help slow the car and stay on the overrun for longer (even into 1st gear as I approach stopping).

                And if it's a bit hot (or steamy) switching the aircon on when on the overrun and switching it off when running with accelerator.

                Then turning off the engine if I looks like I'll be stopped for more than a few seconds - hence my auxilliary battery - and restarting the engine when I see the lights change or the brake lights of the car that's about 3 in front go off.

                It all keeps me from getting bored in traffic - the Yanks call it hypermiling but I was doing it before I came across it on the internet. It improves my mileage by about 15% in my Polo over 'normal' driving but the mental challenge is the main reason I do it.

                And DSGs can be jerky in traffic, especially with diesels when manually selecting downshifts as it seems VAG hasn't programmed the DSG double declutch as well as it has for petrol engines.
                Last edited by kaanage; 12-02-2011, 06:33 AM.
                Resident grumpy old fart
                VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by kaanage View Post
                  Nah.

                  the Yanks call it hypermiling but I was doing it before I came across it on the internet.
                  Maybe you are the pioneer
                  MODS- TOO MANY

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by ryan_GTI View Post
                    I hear there were specific rev ranges where people shift to achieve better fuel efficiency...

                    What's the recommended rpm in our polos? or rpm where you have found to save fuel?
                    Do not confuse efficiency with economy.

                    Simply, if you want the engine operating at its most efficient point, that would be at whatever RPM where peak torque is produced.

                    But if you actually want the least amount of fuel consumed, then you need to lower the RPM as much the engine will allow.

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                    • #11
                      If you are really serious, get a boost gauge. Whenever boost is rising, so is fuel use. It teaches you a LOT about smooth driving, and where the engine is most efficient. Changing up at low revs, and expecting the engine to cope with that under anything but gentle acceleration, and it will be bosting and using more fuel than you realise. I consider a boost gauge essential for any of the diesels equipped with a DPF, as any off boost efforts is producing DPF blocking soot.

                      Seems like a rational excuse for a cool mod to me!
                      2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

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                      • #12
                        Only problem is its hard to drive this car light, you just want to give it a squirt every time you take it out, only starts sounding good around 3 - 4k+ revs

                        But when im being a tight arse on the fuel doing the eastern fway in the morning to work, i usually try and keep it down revving as long as possible as you literally use no fuel on the down rev to about 1400rpm, below that it starts to use a bit of idling juice

                        Other than that its not bad, doing the fway/hoddle st run in bull**** peak hr traffic it consumes around 8.9 - 9.3L , and i see a lot of you guys out there to, fair few polo's do the morning run
                        2016 Golf R, APR Stage 1
                        2010 Polo GTI 9n3, 4 Program APR Tune, PD160, White line front and rear sway bar

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Greg Roles View Post
                          If you are really serious, get a boost gauge.
                          <snip>
                          Seems like a rational excuse for a cool mod to me!
                          Me too - I'm just loathe to start tapping/welding the exhaust manifolds while the cars are still under warranty (not to mention routing cables, mounting gauges...)
                          Do you think an ODB reading device that displays the inlet manifold pressure would do the job?

                          I can understand reigning in a GTi would be frustrating. For better or worse, I bought an econobox so that's how I drive it (outside cruises).
                          Resident grumpy old fart
                          VW - Metallic Paint, Radial Tyres, Laminated Windscreen, Electric Windows, VW Alloy Wheels, Variable Geometry Exhaust Driven Supercharger, Direct Unit Fuel Injection, Adiabatic Ignition, MacPherson Struts front, Torsion Beam rear, Coil Springs, Hydraulic Dampers, Front Anti-Roll Bar, Disc Brakes, Bosch ECU, ABS

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