Engine Oil

[SoVeReIgN]

well he quoted me $200 LOL what an a$$

Well i ain't taking it there i can tell you that much..

Is it an easy DIY job (or make my dad DIHimselfWhileISuperviseJob) LOL or taking it to sebs @ giraween

i actually wouldnt mind learning how to do it.. cant be that hard can it??

$200 isn't that bad at all for a dealer!

$100 in parts, $100 in labour and more importantly, a stamp in the book to say you changed it early. A couple of those and you'll make your money back when you sell it.

But yeah it is piss easy to do..
1. Jack car up
2. Put oil catcher/pan under engine
3. Undo sump bolt on engine (Single bolt right down the bottom, easy to find)
4. Let oil flow out
5. Wait 5, unscrew oil filter
6. Screw new oil filter on
7. Do sump bolt back up
8. Pour oil in.

I've got it down to about ~10minutes after changing it about 5 million times. Significantly easier if you don't change the filter (I usually only change it every second oil change)

[MissVuks]

Sounds like a weekend project then

my dad is a compression mechanic and my brother knows his way around cars so it doesnt sound like it should be too complicated!

Thanks for all the tips guys..

Lora

[Kev_GTI]

Oil change for '07 polo gti

I was considering doing an oil change on my polo but just needed some advice. I was getting an oil + filter service done every 7500km from the dealer but this is expensive! So was gonna have a crack at it

Im pretty hopeless when it comes to DIY car maintanence so just wondering if someone could help us out with some questions:

Firstly, this is probably a stupid question but how would u guys get under ur car?? was going to get some ramps but realised that the front of the car would scrape the ramps when driving up them. ie car was too low. last resort i guess u could put 2 wheels up on the curb on the side of the road

Where can i get an oil filter for the polo gti? went to autobarn and they said they didnt have one. Do u have to buy one from VW?

Any advice would be appreciated!

[NickZ]

Go to VW and buy one. Only costs $18 and $4 for a sump plug. Seeing as your car is under warranty, I would only use a genuine filter.

This thread is also a good reason why not to use any Ryco filter anyway (stick with German parts!)

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=20186

What oil are you using?

[Blitzen]

I was considering doing an oil change on my polo but just needed some advice. I was getting an oil + filter service done every 7500km from the dealer but this is expensive! So was gonna have a crack at it

Im pretty hopeless when it comes to DIY car maintanence so just wondering if someone could help us out with some questions:

Firstly, this is probably a stupid question but how would u guys get under ur car?? was going to get some ramps but realised that the front of the car would scrape the ramps when driving up them. ie car was too low. last resort i guess u could put 2 wheels up on the curb on the side of the road

Where can i get an oil filter for the polo gti? went to autobarn and they said they didnt have one. Do u have to buy one from VW?

Any advice would be appreciated!

Ok

On having the low car, doing the gutter thing is cool(I have done this heaps of times, but as I get fatter, I have to use ramps or a trolly jack now!!), or you could still use you normal ramps, but use lengths of timber in front of them to gradually raise your car up so the nose clears the ramps(I do this all the time on my housemates drift car).
Second, as stated above, go to your local VW dealer to buy the filter. While the vehicle is under warranty, it is necessary to use OEM filters so as to avoid voiding the warranty.

[Kev_GTI]

Go to VW and buy one. Only costs $18 and $4 for a sump plug. Seeing as your car is under warranty, I would only use a genuine filter.

This thread is also a good reason why not to use any Ryco filter anyway (stick with German parts!)

http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/newforum/upload/showthread.php?t=20186

What oil are you using?

Thanks for the advice mate! i will do that

I bought castrol edge sport 5w 30, ive been using the same to top up my oil.
Is the sump plug disposable? i noticed they charged me for a sump plug at one of my services...

Anyways thanks again

Kev

[NickZ]

To be honest, you don't need to change the sump plug on an in between service. However, if you don't change it at least every couple of services, the seal wears out and you will get a slow oil leak from the sump plug.

I change it cos its $4 and it would be more hassle if it did start leaking.

[Roodosutaa]

Do you guys use engine flush first before draining the oil?

Also I've got an almost full 5L bottle of 5W-50 Mobil 1 left from my MX-5 days - reckon i could just fill up the Pog with it?

[JIMTRON]

Do you guys use engine flush first before draining the oil?

Also I've got an almost full 5L bottle of 5W-50 Mobil 1 left from my MX-5 days - reckon i could just fill up the Pog with it?

I've been using MOBIL 1 0W-40 , this has all the needed VW approval (502.00/503.01/505). You'd wanna check your 5W-50 has this too, otherwise I would steer clear, I believe it may be a warranty issue.

[NickZ]

Do you guys use engine flush first before draining the oil?

No, but I go back to the dealer every 15000km who would do it. Can't tell you how necessary it is.

Also I've got an almost full 5L bottle of 5W-50 Mobil 1 left from my MX-5 days - reckon i could just fill up the Pog with it?

Nope. You need VW 501.01, VW502 or VW504. 5w-50 is only VW505 compliant. Might seem like a technicality but I wouldn't jeapordise the health of the engine or your warranty for a bottle of oil.

[imprompt]

I found this when searching the net which may be of some use - http://members.ozemail.com.au/~avdw/...il%20Chart.pdf

[Catfish]

Here’s my experience on all of this, for what it’s worth.

I’ve had much discussion with Castrol tech reps and learned as follows:

Edge 5W30 meets the specs for all turbo VW four cylinder cars. So does Edge 0W40, but it’s more expensive and not necessary unless you live in a really cold climate (like Alaska).

Time is as important for oil/filter changes as distance travelled. So if you don’t do many ks (like me), change the oil AT LEAST once a year.

Change the filter EVERY TIME you change the oil, and use a genuine VW filter to avoid function/warranty problems (they don’t cost much more than the Ryco or Valvoline substitutes).

The shelf life of full synthetic oil (Edge or any of the others) in an unopened container is three years, so you can buy the stuff when it’s on special at Supercheap (typically about $10 off rrp) and keep a supply.

Now, about changing the oil in a Polo (GTI):

Warm the engine to operating temp. Park the car on a level surface, or up on a hoist if you’re lucky.

Take off the engine undertray (8 torx screws). I’ve left mine off permanently for easy access to the sump/gearbox etc, but it’s up to you.

Remove the sump plug (19mm hex spanner or socket) and drain the oil.

Re the sump plug – these are designed to be reused many times. The sealing washer is permanently attached to the plug, is about 2mm thick and always seals properly if done up tightly. If you’ve been charged for a new one at an oil change (by a dealer or otherwise), it’s a rip off.

Remove the old oil filter. Doing this for the first time on a new car can be difficult as the factory employs big Arnie types to screw them on. I’ve tried many different oil filter wrenches, and found the strap type (get one from Supercheap, Autobarn or Repco for under $20) to be best for getting tight filters off without crushing the can. After the first removal, it’s easy as you won’t be over tightening the replacement.

Clean around the sump drain hole and replace the sump plug (reasonably tight, but don’t overdo it as the sump is aluminium and the thread can strip).

Put a smear of oil on the filter gasket and screw the filter on until it just bottoms on its mounting. Then tighten the filter about another two thirds of a turn BY HAND ONLY. Tools should never be used to do up oil filters. Cheap rubber gloves will help you get a grip on the filter if wrist strength is a problem.

Wipe any spilled oil off the underside of the engine so that any real leaks can be detected.

Pour 4l of oil into the filler hole (easier with a tunnel) and replace the cap. Start the engine and idle for a couple of minutes to fill the filter and check for any leaks around the filter or the drain plug. If the filler cap isn’t on when the engine is running oil will spray out from the valve gear.

Leave the engine off for about five minutes to allow the oil to drain back into the sump, then fill to the top mark on the dipstick in progressive glugs of about 150ml, checking the dipstick each time to make sure you don’t overfill. A small measuring jug is useful for this step. The nominal oil capacity is 4.5l (including the filter), buy this can vary a bit from car to car because of casting differences etc.

Remember to replace the filler cap – don’t laugh, I’ve seen what forgetting this does to the underside of the bonnet.

Drive normally and check the oil again after a day or two. Also double check under the car for leaks (very unlikely if all of the above has been followed).

Enjoy the feeling of having done this (properly) yourself and saved much money. After the first time, the whole job should take less than an hour.

Cheers.

[WHTPOLOGTI]

"Take off the engine undertray (8 torx screws). I’ve left mine off permanently for easy access to the sump/gearbox etc, but it’s up to you."

do you have to take this off to have access to the sump oil box?

[Stuwey]

No, you don't have to remove it to access the sump plug, but you will have to remove it to get to the oil filter.

BTW, i'd put it back on after, aerodynamics are a fickle thing under your car.

[Joe Chu]

Oils aint oils

We only used Mobil 1 0W40, this was what we fed Golf Gti and Polo Gti when I was at the Dealer. This is also the only oil recomended for Bentley Gt's which is Volkswagens mega buck engine. W12 twin turbo.