VW Polo BUILD #3: CIAOS Continues...

[JTop]

Ah pitty, Simon? want them? freebies hehe

I have read the instruction sheet and understand the cutting principles as to remove what is shown on the paper. Think I got the alignment numbers too
If the center is the current setup, and the table is to adjust by the x amount wanted. Then my sweet spot of neg 2 degrees of camber is a blank space :CRY:

Anyway, can be 23/9 or 23/11 in quadrant #4 (bottom right) Which to my understanding brings both left to -0.96mm and right -1.26mm
Along with the camber to either approximately -1.9deg or -2.1deg. More looks cooler, Mmmm

So got that figured out, now to actually make it work LOL
Will go hunt some Rear lines this weekend and go around on Monday to figure out who'll be able to fit the braided lines on. Essentially a cut, slide the screwable fitting on and flare the end of the hardline. ACTUALLY, I think I have a tool to cut it proper... But flaring it, I'll ask my father what tricks he has up his sleeve. Might DIY it the more I think about it.

Thanks again Sam

[sambb]

Yeah if you are adding toe out and neg camber then you’ll be in the bottom right quadrant.
Often you will end up on a space between two numbers where you just have to make an educated guess based on which of the two you are closer to. Also you should err on the side of caution with toe but can go the other way with camber if you wanted ie. an extra .25 degree of camber is no big deal but an extra 1mm of rear toe out makes an enormous difference if you already have toe out.
I’ll leave picking the numbers to you though cos it’s pretty easy to misread columns etc. camber is pretty easy but for toe in general you need to refer to their rim diameter chart to convert degrees toe to mm toe from memory.
Hang onto to those spare ones till you’ve done the job. You can easily break them as you cut them ( clamping them in a vice and then filing out the relief for the abs sensor works best otherwise you can accidentally break out segments you didn’t intend on removing), accidentally start removing segments when you haven’t flipped the shim around the right way ( one of them needs to be flipped before installed) or you might just make a math error and need to pull one side out again and repeat. Good luck!!

[simon k]

Ah pitty, Simon? want them? freebies hehe

no thanks Jan, I tried a set and they fell to bits in my hands, I'm not a fan at all. They obviously work for Sam and he's been using them for many thousands of km, but they're not for me

I made alminium spacer plates and machined them to produce the camber and toe I wanted - with the added bonus of extra rear track

[JTop]

Those look mint Simon... No worries at all!

Sam, I did notice that when I was getting those figures. The slightest variation in the current baseline and it'll easily be off the aim.
I'll get these Porsche brakes and sit and do the rear end and full brake upgrade too. Probably in three weeks when I'm done with Uni.

Heading up to QLD in a month to help another fellow Polo owner install his XSPower K04-001XL turbo and have a bit of a holiday too. So will be a bit of fun.

Thanks guys

[JTop]

So had a few hiccups over the weekend...

Car spat the dummy Saturday night. Threw itself into a safe map and wouldn't let me boost over 7psi.
So I went to figure out where the hell is the leak, had to be a burst pipe or something. I wasn't confident on how well the TIP was on, but it was on quite solid, but silly me took it off at 12pm at night trying to see if that was the issue. Anyway lodged it on and tightened it somehow. Came to the conclusion, had to be the front IC pipes. Hole somewhere giving way.

Took the front bumper off and started taking the top side of the intercooler pipes off. Water... How? Very good question.
No residue in the lower section running into the dual pass IC. Took it all apart. Cleaned the little bit of oil residue sitting in one pipe.
Took the IC off to check how much water is sitting in the bottom of it. Dry


Questioned myself as to how this would happen. So started pressure testing the system. IC first. Held fine
Then done the top section to the throttle body. Couldn't even give it one pump of air. needle didn't even move how bad it was.


O-ring had died on the MAP sensor bung. Replaced that. seated it in and used some Silicone to seal that completely. Held perfectly fine after that. Asked Gavin what would be up too because I had no codes saved. He said look at the DV which I had a feeling might be buggered, so rebuilt the forge splitter valve, why not.
Anyway. Threw that all on. Went for another drive and again. Nothing changed. Check the codes, car finally spat an overboost, limit reached and DV open problem and the forge valve had finally given way. Would just bang open and closed even though I sealed the lid with loctite. Needs a new spring! While I waited for the Silicone to dry, took the intake manifold off and gave that a proper clean because that was filthy. Need new injector cups for this manifold. They are worn and honestly need replacing. But anyway. Threw the Phenolic Spacer on too, while I had it all apart.

Anyway, put the Forge 008 with a yellow spring on, and it drove pretty darn good after that
Sunder night after quite a drive, car starter whistling. Had a good feeling it was the TIP that finally slid off.

yup.

So Monday was back in the garage figuring how to make sure the TIP doesn't get wedged out. Deleted the remainder of the SAI tower because that was in the way for the Catchcan breather hose. Got the TIP on and that won't go anywhere anytime soon.


But today, driving to work, tried a 3rd gear pull, wasn't happy... Not sure why but it's holding back. Will log the drive back home. Need to do the rocker cover gasket soon. Half moon in the rear is just letting oil out. Watching my oil level too in case I am burning it off as I have been told Cyl 3 compression is low. Doesn't feel like it when the car is pulling

Will see what it tells me and go from there :/

[sambb]

I’d be looking at your wastegate. Verify the hose running to it is ok. Plug a bike pump into it with a gauge. I’m you should just see the rod move at 6psi. Then pump a bit more to get it to extend further and stop pumping. The rod should stay out in one spot. If there’s an air leak in the actuator body or the hose running to it the rod will either not respond to air inputs tmfrom the hand pump or always retract after you’ve fed it some air.
If that’s ok then check the wastegate rods’ preload is 3mm and no more. If that’s too preloaded then you’ll get limp mode from overboost.
Check all the n75 hoses are sound too. Any air leak thst stops the n75 getting air onto the the wastegate will cause overboost

[JTop]

So.. been a while but still tracking along

Not much has happened, just been catching up on everything post uni semester whilst trying to enjoy myself a little

Got the Tint redone as it was starting to flake and look terrible, so had it done professionally because I'd not waste time doing it myself.
Had done a mountain run before heading back into lockdown and then nothing for the few weeks whilst that all was going on.

Then the night of our release; already headed out for a drive and some donuts, because yes

Last weekend had a bit of fun with Gavin!


Done a dash swap, only took a hour and a half for the two of us with all the cables being ziptied everywhere! Got that sorted and quite a few other bits and pieces organized and sorted for Scotty. Quickly replaced the plastic door lock shroud too while I was there, because that was in a million pieces. Card off and back on. Steering wheel also with the next gen series to update the look and feel of the Polo
Two of us also had a beautiful field day at Imlach wreckers the very next day for a few more bits and pieces, ie pesky door locks! Raided what was left in the entire euro section, which really isn't much

Anyway.. had pretty much been driving the car, it only got a wash on Saturday
Few more bits and pieces arrived, finally completing the LED conversion on the front! Waiting for the pair to arrive back to me with some Plastic Protective Film on them.


Bought a Serck Speed 13row oil cooler to accommodate the thermostatic sandwich plate.
Pistons are on their way soon, and also have more stuff to order

So my door lock on the drivers side started to fail, hence I replaced that and whilst doing it fixed the rattling in the door. Funnily enough it was the window glass bolt that holds it all in place. That was loose like a goose. Whilst in there started swapping speakers and realized I've got to make a thicker template to make it all work with the window. 6.5" Clarions are really darn thick! That's next weekends job to finish both sides and hopefully have a more wicked noise coming from those

Who wants a choccy milk? Good I checked last night! Cracked dipstick too no wonder I've had a funky idle for the past week.
Worst part is the mounting bracket for it once you have the phenolic spacer on. Have to lower the position for it to fit right, and even then, not superb either

Also swapped wheels in preparation for track spec, and uh.. these wheels didn't fit... SOO, had to raise the front coilovers and adjust the lower balljoint to max out camber, for there to be some tuck because it was scraping hard and even then. Wasn't happy downsizing to 15mm spacers, so stayed with the 17.5mm to get more than the 5mm of clearance between tyre wall and the coilover... Pretty much need to balance that somehow :/
Rear end poked those out by 10mm to have a nice flush look with them, but overall looks pretty darn good, and actually doesn't sound unhappy like it did on Sunday

Still have the rear end to do, I've sorted a spare set of brake lines to swap in the braided bits, and I don't understand why HEL even bothered making them, the stock lines are crimped in and there is pretty much no way to directly swap them in. Just need to find the right fittings and fixtures to make them work, and then I'll complete the remainder of the rear end. So subframe bushings, 256mm brake upgrade and the shims to correct the rear toe and camber.

Think this covers almost everything, not too much else that I would like to get done.

Got some VW Polo Australia stickers too, if anyone wants one let me know, happy to post too!

Cheers

[teamshaw]

VW Polo BUILD #3: CIAOS Continues...

Still have the rear end to do, I've sorted a spare set of brake lines to swap in the braided bits, and I don't understand why HEL even bothered making them, the stock lines are crimped in and there is pretty much no way to directly swap them in. Just need to find the right fittings and fixtures to make them work, and then I'll complete the remainder of the rear end.

They should be a straight swap on the back if you have the right HEL parts. I did it on my car, so you can check it out if it’s still in the garage [emoji6] I remember it took us a while to figure out but it does work.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JTop]

Up front is a straight swap, rears are hardline to crimped rubber, which doesn't allow for any screw/unscrew fittings.
Yours just had the fronts upgraded with blue hel lines. I've done a full refresh on the brakes on both front and back on that car, it's waiting for a roadworthy. Need to do it this week, and get the car registered after all this time!

[teamshaw]

VW Polo BUILD #3: CIAOS Continues...

Yours just had the fronts upgraded with blue hel lines.

Definitely had rears done with blue also.

It wasn’t easy, from memory we had to drop the sway bar to get at it, but there is a screw fitting.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JTop]

Yeah, they were done. you are right! Can't believe it's super hard to get to, being hidden behind the subframe. When the last section of brake line goes into it comfortably, just the top connection might be a little tricky without the right tools.

Seen them as the car was on the hoist getting its roadworthy. It ended up having a split CV boot, which I've replaced. +1 Gavin for parts


Rego on Tuesday and use it for a daily for a little and pass it on to a new owner who'd need it more than I do... Too many cars, only need one!
Have been working all week, and sorted my brothers Polo, which he wants to sell soon. So modifications have been removed. Car's back on the street for the weekend and next week back to do suspension.
I've got speakers to finish installing this weekend, currently missing my drivers side one hahaha

Pistons are being sent to me soon, another month of shipping

Need a weekend to do my rear end, too busy to get it finished..
That's all I remember hahaha, probably done more

OPINIONS!!
Been offered a BW EFR 6758 with .64afr exhaust side
Heavily inclined to take it, would actually come up really. Really. REALLY good... I don't see anything that points to a no for it so might take up the offer and that's sorted! Pity the exhaust manifold I bought is v-band and has an external wastegate, that needs a T25 to V-band flange as well as blanking off that wastegate? No idea, either way *shrug*

[sambb]

that'd be a sweet turbo. The 0.64 housing is the smaller of what they offer on that turbo so you'd have the best possible response for that compressor. Being single scroll you could probably fit a less complicated exhaust mani back there too. They are a wide turbo though. I couldnt see you being able to get the exhaust down on the master cylinder side if it was up mounted but maybe if low mounted. Most likely would need it mounted the other way around.

[JTop]

that'd be a sweet turbo. The 0.64 housing is the smaller of what they offer on that turbo so you'd have the best possible response for that compressor. Being single scroll you could probably fit a less complicated exhaust mani back there too. They are a wide turbo though. I couldnt see you being able to get the exhaust down on the master cylinder side if it was up mounted but maybe if low mounted. Most likely would need it mounted the other way around.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]53088[/ATTACH]

Oh my.. I've been dormant for too long. I just wanted to do a quick update post and realised I didn't even reply to you Sam :O
Burnout with uni and now the Maserati project; I need a holiday... I think we all do

You may be right; albeit I do feel like this will probably fit suitably above, given the V-band outlet of the exhaust manifold sits next to cyl 3.
Will see fitment when it comes to it; and the question is when ..
Yes the rust is not optimal and manifold coating will happen once it's 100% known to work without being chopped

ANYWAY
so, I got the block back two weeks ago; and been slowly getting it prepared to do a weekend job on it; I still need to order a few bits and pieces as I've realised it might be best to go all out for what I've spent the money on...


Gavin's supplied his spare head in a box of unknown contents that he's been holding onto forever and it came with the best of luck!
APG head, which is a NA head out of a Audi A3. And Gav tells me; oh it doesn't have an exhaust cam; you'll need to find one

4-5months ago at Imlachs; I only found an exhaust cam out of an NA A3; as whoever dismantled it before me; took the intake cam. I took some decent 1.8T cams too; so if anyone needs; I'll pass those on; pay for shipping!

And there is my luck; 1+1 = complete head. But I'm not done. Also got spares from Gav for 3 more cylinders as well as IE rods!!! which are of no use to my build anymore hahahaha; was a funny find.
I've currently got Ferrera exhaust valves to go in. I didn't buy any stem seals; and I'm probably going to ASAP; but with that; I keep thinking of better springs and seats(so the potential for valve float is low, given I like to race any willing participant)

Yet to buy a sheet of aluminium to baffle that sump up; another job for another day. And I have too many at this given moment..
Got APR studs for bottom and top. Need to order oil pickup and those bits.
Not much else for the moment; need to get all the gaskets and seals first!

Might be the Christmas break where I get this built... All year for a wonderful present
Cheers guys

[sambb]

good to see you pressing on mate. My block is close to done. The AGU big port head is going to have some supertech stainless OE replacement exhaust valves. I just need to save a bit more coin to get ARP head bolts. Only other decison will be do I run fixed cam timing or go with VVT again. VVT can be a bit of a pain to setup and definitely improves the bottom end but I'm not really that keen on putting decent mileage gear into a brand new head whereas the fixed tensioner is brand new too. I'm leaning towards maybe that with the catcams cam pulley and call it a day.
My sump is still down with the engineer waiting to get welded but soon hopefully I'll have some pics of the baffled sump so you'll see what it looks like once those templates are all in there. It'll have hinged stainless doors.

[JTop]

Thanks Sam!!
Wait a minute; done as in built? bottom end assembled? You're getting along quick!!!

These have arrived today; didn't get the tooled option unfortunately
$350 AUD, express postage ebay from VPW
Automotive & Motorcycle Performance Parts | VPW Australia
Automotive & Motorcycle Performance Parts | VPW Australia
$95 for the tool...
Hi Gav! I'll need to borrow yours hahahaha

Also ordered on Sunday night all the Gaskets; stem seals, oil pump etc;
$464AUD for the lot. which ain't bad. I went with a Piertec oil pump; *shrug* hope is ok will see

If anyone can read that lol

OOh and bought a IE 83.5mm gasket; also $172 express shipped. No heads up if that's coming yet or not

Think I have everything except the Turbo and maybe external wastegate. Be a downpipe extension to create as(given everything fits in position) and a larger charge pipe OH and front mount too.. I forgot about that all... UMMM
Should get the cup edition bumper ordered as that helps with space up front... Eh; my current bumper is completely buggered; so i'll chop the rest up and make new mounting brackets to have it fit.
Did get my Phenix engineering Billet cups for the BAM intake; given the current spacing; everything should work wonderfully. I'll probably draft a tonne of custom parts, like an enclosure for the intake etc. I've got a little Intel L515; LiDAR 3D scanner; due to my other project having to find New-Old stock. Impossible!
So tempted to make some spacers for the fenders and widen up the front a bit. Little illegal? It all is either way

As you mention it Sam; I also did pickup a Fluidampr and IE cam adjuster. Will see how good those are

That reminds me; need to get the 6 hole timing gear. I ordered one and then got a full refund because the shop didn't have it in stock. Or Gav... Hiiiiii

Need to order another timing belt kit for my brothers car; that's another weekend job to do. I can't catch a single break; 1000 million jobs to get done.. Blinked and my day is over