New 9n3 GTI owner

[triode12]

..... and an oil cooler, our cars have a water to oil heat exchanger - my car's temperature gauge would creep up after 2 laps at Winton and it'd cut power until I fitted an oil cooler, now no problems

Thanks Simon - do you have a link or the brand and model of oil cooler to use?

[sambb]

I have a sceond hand oil cooler and mocal thermostated sandwich plate if you're interested

[sambb]

yep go bilstein over KW any day RE service. The car I bought has KW that are just paper weights because noone can fix them here. B16's will be sweet. Just need tops for them. See if K-mac still do them or suspension concepts might have something that'll fit.

[simon k]

Thanks Simon - do you have a link or the brand and model of oil cooler to use?

I copied what Sam did on his silver car, so the 2nd hand stuff he has is identical to what I'm using.. The only thing I'd do differently is use barb fittings and hose clamps instead of Aeroflow, that stuff was a pain and way too expensive

[sambb]

Yep I really don’t get the aftermarket automotive worlds obsession with -AN fittings. The top shelf stuff is probably perfect for task but the stuff that we mere mortals can afford seems to have the worst quality control. I’m not a F*&^tard yet simply have never had -AN fittings not leak. Aeroflow, superflow etc etc That’s including pushlock where the only way it can leak is at the seat or at the swivel joint (out of my control) yet it always weeps. That’s absurd to me given the really low oil pressures you see in cars. I work in industrial manufacturing and NONE of that stuff exists in the stupendous hydraulics we work with. Most of the time its just barbed brass fittings with compression clamps holding inside psi that would blow your head off if it let go and not a drop of oil in sight. Dunno but provided the Internal diameters of the fittings are sized correctly to allow the flow demands and not cause pressure drop and the hose you are using is temp and oil rated, I cant see why you shouldn’t save money with an oil cooler setup using brass fittings and proper clamps. Having said that I can pass onto you some used -AN fittings if you really wanted them that I had with the cooler but you’ll be cleaning up the mess at every oil change interval.

[sambb]

Which fluid was used in the box?

[triode12]

I have a sceond hand oil cooler and mocal thermostated sandwich plate if you're interested

Sam, I have PM'd you about it.

[simon k]

Sam, I have PM'd you about it.

Just a thought on this, Sam and I both have a FMIC and put the oil cooler where the SMIC was...

So grab Sam's stuff but you might need to sit on it till you get a FMIC in.

[triode12]

Just a thought on this, Sam and I both have a FMIC and put the oil cooler where the SMIC was...

So grab Sam's stuff but you might need to sit on it till you get a FMIC in.

The problem is I don't know when I will be doing the FMIC as I was planning on tracking the car first as it is. The next item was the Bilstein coilovers then Stg 2 tune later because of the cost.

[triode12]

Just a thought on this, Sam and I both have a FMIC and put the oil cooler where the SMIC was...

So grab Sam's stuff but you might need to sit on it till you get a FMIC in.

The problem is I don't know when I will be doing the FMIC as I was planning on tracking the car first as it is. The next item was the Bilstein coilovers then Stg 2 tune later because of the cost.

[sambb]

If you will be getting out on the track then I reckon do the cooler in front of the AC core until you sort the tune/front mount IC. They really cook the oil on the track. At 130+ degrees your 5w-30 will be a 5W-nothing and you could kill the engine or turbo so its worth it from a reliability point of view. Its no big deal then to switch the cooler to the fender when you front mount the IC at a later date.
The stock side mount can be improved with a water spray, opening up the entry/fog surround to get more air onto it and then vent the guard liner so the air can get out. That’ll cost you basically nothing and get you out on the track in the mean time.

[h100vw]

Thanks Simon, I got the 70K one - did a search on the forum and people are saying that the 70K one is enough and not too stiff for normal driving.

These people need to HTFU. I daily drive the Powerflex race insert and have done for years and years. Also have Vibra Technics engine mounts. I really don't think it's that bad.

[h100vw]

Hi Sam,
Thanks for taking the trouble to write such a comprehensive reply! It is much appreciated.
I have just purchased all of the necessary Superpro bushes thanks to Simon's recommendation.

I was considering doing the coilovers before the tune actually. I was thinking of getting Bilstein B16s with adjustable damping. I read that that KW coilovers and it's cheaper variants (ST coilovers) were hard to get parts for and re-built easily in Australia and that Bilsteins are much easier. My mechanic has suggested BC coilovers as budget alternatives.

I have a bit of a crunch in the gearbox going between 3rd to 4th since my mechanic changed the transmission fluid for me so I will be going back on Tuesday to see if it needs a bit more fluid put in. Also getting a bit of hesitation on acceleration and have bought replacement PRV and hose as they are leaking otherwise, it might be caused by a dirty MAF.

FYI it can take a few KMs for the synthetic oil to do it's thing. I doubt the level has any bearing on the crunch unless it's down a litre. And I can never get 2 litres in one of our boxes.