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Bluetooth radio installation (with piccies)

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  • Bluetooth radio installation (with piccies)

    Did the install a few weeks back, finally getting off my fat arsch to post pics - this is by no means a professional isntalltion but might give you a few pointers with pics. Sorry the pics aren't step-by-step as I kept forgetting to take pics as I went. No amplifier though as I'm not a fan of doof-doof. Anyway, here goes:

    Equipment required:
    1. Head Unit (in this case, a Pioneer DEH-P65BT with built in A2DP stereo bluetooth supporting hands-free calls and bluetooth audio)
    2. CANBUS adaptor wiring harness
    3. Antenna adaptor harness with booster circuit
    4. 4x stock removal keys if you want to take the stock HU out cleanly. All items bought on eBay (but do NOT buy the harness/removal tools from Autoware302 - took longer than a month to arrive from the US, there are better sellers out there)
    5. (optional) a big soup-mug of coffee


    To keep all the wiring connected securely, I used proper automotive electrical terminals on the CANBUS harness and the HU's harness. The wiring are colour coded and anyway there is a diagram label on the side of the stock HU to tell you what pin goes where if you want to go without a harness.



    Done (ran out of terminals though so ended up using a few blade-types, which meant I had to electrical tape over some of them)


    To make sure all the terminals are connected properly, check for impedance. No dramas there (phew)


    Both harnesses connected up


    Remove stock radio with keys (sorry no pic), hook up stock socket to CANBUS harness, hook up antenna harness. Surprisingly, everything inside is plastic, I thought there would have been some metal bracket inside.


    The Accessories wire (red +ve supply wire) cannot be hooked up to the stock CANBUS connection or it'll stay on even with the ignition off (the stock HU will remember to turn itself off after an hour or so, the Pioneer won't) so it'll only turn on with the key in ACC (not a specific notch in the ignition switch, but there's a position just before ON that will get the accessories on including the blower fan)

    As others have done, I'm drawing accessory power from the ciggy lighter. Unclip the trim around the handbrake lever, yank it off, peel off the rubber at the front of the lower console (in front of the ashtray), unscrew the two TORX-head screws. Yank up and lift slightly until you can touch the connector at the base of the ciggy lighter, press on the tab and pull out.



    The middle (black) wire is the accessory power supply, but don't take my word for it, best to check for voltage as you turn the key.

  • #2
    Tap in a splicing connector to the black wire, connect with a new (blue) wire


    Run the blue wire under the trim and then up the gap behind the lower console. The Pioneer HU also has a rear-mounted 3.5mm AUX jack, to which I've connected a male-to-male cable and running it down the dash and coming out from behind the rubber pad so an iPod or other AV devices can be connected up, good thing there is a hole behind the rubber for a clean install.




    The Pioneer HU serves as a BT hands-free so there'll be a mic. To keep the install neat and clean without having to drill holes, I've decided to run the wire up the a-pillar and have the mic at the top of the pillar (I've since clipped it to the sunvisor so it's closer to me) - yes I realise in the event of the curtain bag going off I could quite possibly get a mic implant in the head but it's a risk worth taking for convenience's sake
    Run mic wire behind the trim panel, lifting up the rubber seal as you go, part by part.



    The tricky part is to run the wire behind the dash, between the instrument cluster and the steering column, and then to the centre console. To negotiate the turns, I tied the 2.5mm mic plug to a stiff wire I found lying around, then poke the wire into the dash above the fuse block. Pulled out the vinyl trim covering the steering column below the instrument cluster. Then I found a gap (the pink bit is my finger) deep on the right side of the 2DIN hole to run the wire through.


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    • #3
      Now the absolute pain in the arsch bit - mounting the radio bracket. I've decided to put it in the bottom half of the 2DIN hole so that (i) the HU has something to sit on and (ii) it'll leave room at the top for me to install a boost and oil pressure gauge later on. The Pioneer is of course a Japanese DIN as others have pointed out but it also comes with a trim surround (nicely matched to the silver dash) to fit nicely in a Euro DIN hole. The hard part is making it sit flush against the dash as best as possible. Which means the bracket needed to be mounted slightly out from the bits of dash trim around it. What made it difficult is the trim around the 2DIN hole doesnt have many edges/slots that you could secure the tabs on the mounting bracket against. In the end I found two edges of the plastic which I could use.





      Had to make the rubber stopper at the back of the unit stick out a bit so that it'll put a bit of pressure on the tabs of the bracket agaisnt the trim as I slide the HU in and clip it on the bracket. In the end it doesn't sit flush (still set in by 1-2mm) but I could live with that.

      Fertig!!!


      Another beauty of the DEH-P65BT is its adjustable backlight colour for the keys and display. That and the silver finish make for a good stock appearance. The red LED for the keys are a perfect match (though it appears orange in the pics because LED is more intense than the bulbs used for the HVAC switches - see the hazard light switch for comparison which also appears overexposed in orange in the pic). The blue was a user-adjustable colour (1/4 red, 0/4 green, 3 or 4/4 blue) - however it still appears either too blue or too purple but it's close enough. Then of cousre you have the option of making everything red or really any colour you like.


      I've also temporarily put in a rattly, cheap DIN pocket in there until I've bought the NewSouth gauges and DIN mounting. For now, it's a nice holder for my favorite brand of mints
      Last edited by Roodosutaa; 02-08-2008, 02:49 PM.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Roodosutaa View Post
        3. Antenna adaptor harness with booster circuit
        4. 4x stock removal keys if you want to take the stock HU out cleanly. All items bought on eBay (but do NOT buy the harness/removal tools from Autoware302 - took longer than a month to arrive from the US, there are better sellers out there)
        Which seller did you get your keys from? I ordered mine from Autoware302 last week

        Also could you link me to which antenna adapter you purchased? I vaguely remember what the plug looks like, but without the keys I can't re-check!

        Cheers.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by j0n_GTI View Post
          Which seller did you get your keys from? I ordered mine from Autoware302 last week

          Also could you link me to which antenna adapter you purchased? I vaguely remember what the plug looks like, but without the keys I can't re-check!

          Cheers.
          Keys: yep got them from Autoware302 as well along with the CANBUS harness - took bloody ages and he stuffed everything in a plain (unpadded) envelope, got it in the mail with a key half poking out. $#!+house service - however there are some positive feedbacks still so hope you'll fare better - I'm still trying to come up with the most venomous, abusive feedback for him.

          Antenna adaptor: got it from an eBay mob "liquidice-2008" in the UK - first rate, ordered Monday, got it next Monday in a nice padded envelope



          search for "vw FAKRA antenna adaptor" or something along those lines

          Good luck
          Last edited by Roodosutaa; 04-08-2008, 10:22 PM.

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          • #6
            Awesome, cheers for that!

            When I did a mates car we ordered the harness from liquidice which arrived incredibly quick from the UK! So I'll get the harness and antenna adaptor from him and hope my keys get here sometime this month

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