VW/Audi fastners

[VEEEUU]

Does anyone know how the VW nuts stay locked in place?

They are a flange type nut, coated with what I presume is galvanizing. The flange does not have any serrations (so as to bite into something) and prevent it from undoing. Obviously lock washers are not used and no "Nylock" type insert is present. No advise to use a thread lock compounds either.

They appear to turn with more resistance (tighter thread clearances?) than equivalent non VW nuts. That is before reaching the intended travel and actual tightning (torquing) takes place.

Would using new VW nuts with aftermarket components such as suspension parts be a better option, rather than using nuts as suppiled with these aftermarket componenets? The aftermarket supplied nuts seem very sloppy on the mating male threads

Any thoughts?

VEEEUU

[LunchboxVRS]

A picture would be good.
If it's the ones I'm thinking of Those nuts are oval shaped internally so thats how they lock. They are also single use and should be replaced once used.
For suspension (or anything relating to safety systems) use the genuine nuts or a nyloc nut.

[gavs]

Does anyone know how the VW nuts stay locked in place?

They are a flange type nut, coated with what I presume is galvanizing. The flange does not have any serrations (so as to bite into something) and prevent it from undoing. Obviously lock washers are not used and no "Nylock" type insert is present. No advise to use a thread lock compounds either.

They appear to turn with more resistance (tighter thread clearances?) than equivalent non VW nuts. That is before reaching the intended travel and actual tightning (torquing) takes place.

Would using new VW nuts with aftermarket components such as suspension parts be a better option, rather than using nuts as suppiled with these aftermarket componenets? The aftermarket supplied nuts seem very sloppy on the mating male threads

Any thoughts?

VEEEUU

The bolts that are threaded into said nuts are called stretch bolts for a reason, because they deform as they are done up to their specified torque for the first time. This holds everything in place and is also why you need to replace all fasteners whenever you play around with the suspension components because you will never get the same holding power as before. I have learned this the hard way and I recommend for the extra $12 or so for all the bolts, play it safe and not tight-arsed.

[VEEEUU]

Thank you guys for the great info lead.

I have looked these nuts up on the net and they are Stover lock nuts. Also called: automation lock nuts, Autolock nuts, Crownlock nuts, Unitorque nuts. Lock washers are not used with these type of lock nuts.

The design is such that the thread starts off being round and as it winds its way up the nut, it gradually becomes triangulary oliptical (out of round). Hence resisiting turning and eliminating undoing after correct torque is applied.

Not recomended for long threaded bolts. Because, the more the nut travels along the bolt thread, the more it looses its resisiting grip (The triangular oliptical shape becomes more round).

Well! after all that I am most happy to use new VW nuts on any original VW application. But, use the nut and spring washer as supplied by Koni for my new Koni struts. (instead of a VW Stover lock nut)

Kind regards
VEEEUU

[LunchboxVRS]

Be aware Vw have changed some of there nuts/bolts on the 6r. I can't remember exactly which ones but there was at least one nut that was original nyloc and the replacements I ordered where the stover type. So don't freak out if there different.