Anyone fitted a Haldex performance controller?

[Jakeys]

I think with the switchable version it's possible to switch it to race mode and then disconnect/remove the switch completely. Send an email to the guys at HPA and they'll let you know the best way to set it up.

Or as you say just stash the cable/switch in the boot out of the way. I wouldn't be running the cable to the front and drilling holes in my dash.

There's not a single driving situation where you wouldn't want to run in race mode so I'm not sure why they made these switchable anyway. It's a bit of a gimmick that just adds cost. Unfortunately in the gen2 controller you have to buy it with a switch unit.

Again though I don't think you have to switch it to race mode, I'm pretty sure they default to race mode. But yeah as per my last reply I completely agree it is totally pointless ever running it in anything but race mode. There are no downsides to leaving it in that mode, the car will still not be engaging the clutch when cruising by design so there are no wear concerns. I bought the switch because it just came up at the time with it and it didn't cost me any extra, but if I was buying from HPA there is no way I would buy the switch.

[maximumxposure]

I installed the Haldex controller over the weekend, really simple install and obviously went straight to the race mode setting.
I've noticed the wheels skipping at low speed on full lock almost like the centre diff is binding, mainly car parks etc. I assumed that as more torque is being transferred to the rear this may be the end result. As soon as I switched it from Race to Stock it went away. Has anyone experienced this before?

[Jakeys]

I installed the Haldex controller over the weekend, really simple install and obviously went straight to the race mode setting.
I've noticed the wheels skipping at low speed on full lock almost like the centre diff is binding, mainly car parks etc. I assumed that as more torque is being transferred to the rear this may be the end result. As soon as I switched it from Race to Stock it went away. Has anyone experienced this before?

Can't say I've noticed this before. It does this on even rough asphalt, not just like a slippery multistory surface or something? If so, I definitely don't get that and I know my performance controller is functioning in race mode from dyno oddities.

[maximumxposure]

Can't say I've noticed this before. It does this on even rough asphalt, not just like a slippery multistory surface or something? If so, I definitely don't get that and I know my performance controller is functioning in race mode from dyno oddities.

It seemed to be more noticeable on flat, level surfaces. I'll switch it back over tonight on the way home from work and run a few tests.

Thanks for the reply.

[3C4M Guy]

Subject to maximumxposure investigating the wheels skipping at low speed on full lock, it sounds unanimous that the "race" setting is fine for all situations and there's no reason to leave this setting. So installation would be even simpler if it's possible to not fit the switch at all. I'll check with HPA.

For those who have car that needs a Gen 4 unit, the competition controller sounds one step better again. HPA say the competition controller is similar to the switchable controller when in race setting with the added advantage of "increasing the clutch torque when braking. By doing so, wheel brake torque is now transferred rearwards through the AWD clutch, offering a far more aggressive deceleration capability. Additionally, the Competition controller will support left foot braking without disengaging the 4-motion clutch ...".

It seems logical to me to always "retain rear driveline engagement under braking". Why wouldn't you want this? Surely this would deliver better engine braking.

[tigger73]

Unfortunately the Competition controller is only available for the Golf R. And yes it does provide greater engine braking by keeping the rear clutches engaged, though I have also heard these units can also cause the rear diffs, prop-shafts and transfer cases to break.

Moral of the story is do your research.

[Jakeys]

It seems logical to me to always "retain rear driveline engagement under braking". Why wouldn't you want this? Surely this would deliver better engine braking.

tigger73 as before has beaten me to it but to back him up, it increases wear on the driveline as it was not intended to be stressed this way and can cause failures, however this is irrelevant because he is completely correct that it is only available on the Golf R units. There is no technical reason why the R36 can't do it, it's just that nobody made a competition unit for them.

I did a full lock turn today on a flat road doing a U turn in a side street and made a mental note of what maximumxposure said, there is absolutely no problems on my unit with this, I've currently got almost brand new Potenzas, but I used to have Eagle F1's on and it wasn't a problem at any stage through their life. I don't believe the problem being described is to do with the Haldex upgrade. Unless his unit is faulty but I'd say there is probably something else at play there.

All of the information available in this thread and more is available on the HPA website by the way, including all sorts of info about engagement curves in the different modes, what is available and for what models, prices (Contact them though to get a best quote) and whatever else you want to know. Just dig around.

[maximumxposure]

Seems that perhaps it was just the particular carpark surface, I've had a similar issue in my old Liberty 3.0RB when the centre diff failed so i guess I immediately jumped to this conclusion. Testing last night on various road surfaces, left and right lock, forward and reverse and no issues to report thankfully.

Appreciate you taking the time to check for me as well Jakey.

[3C4M Guy]

I installed the Haldex controller over the weekend, really simple install and obviously went straight to the race mode setting.

Sounds like the install was a simple DIY maximumxposure. I believe you had access to a hoist. Would you attempt the job with the car just up on jack stands? Did you lose much Haldex oil switching over the controller? Also, how did you decide where to drill the hole through to the boot?
No photos I suppose? (Sorry for all the questions!)

[Jakeys]

Sounds like the install was a simple DIY maximumxposure. I believe you had access to a hoist. Would you attempt the job with the car just up on jack stands? Did you lose much Haldex oil switching over the controller? Also, how did you decide where to drill the hole through to the boot?
No photos I suppose? (Sorry for all the questions!)

I didn't do the install of mine myself, I had it done with a service. But I don't believe they drilled anything, the cables were passed through a grommet somewhere. My Haldex box (I guess maybe it's just for the controller so not everyone will have this maybe?) is cable tied next to my battery in the wagon.

[maximumxposure]

Yeah it was a simple installation process (about 15 minutes). Could definitely be completed on jack stands as you're only under the car for about 10 minutes to swap the controller unit and then run the cable. Oil loss was very very minimal, maybe 10ml at most. I mounted the Haldex remote box in the spare wheel well, drilled a 15mm diameter hole to the right of the spare wheel, passed the connector through a grommet and stuck the remote unit to the right of the spare wheel using the double sided tape that comes with the controller. Only downside is you can't hear the beep when changing between settings due to the thickness of the spare wheel cover etc, but as Tigger and Jakey have suggested, once you're in race mode you will probably not go back to Stock.

Sounds like the install was a simple DIY maximumxposure. I believe you had access to a hoist. Would you attempt the job with the car just up on jack stands? Did you lose much Haldex oil switching over the controller? Also, how did you decide where to drill the hole through to the boot?
No photos I suppose? (Sorry for all the questions!)

[3C4M Guy]

I've received a reply from HPA that gives some further details. These apply ONLY to the Gen 2 performance controller - NOT the Gen 4.
If the Gen 2 controller is installed without either the remote or the switch/cable, then it will default to SPORT mode, not RACE mode. The controller would be stuck in an inferior performance mode. The only way to change out of SPORT mode to RACE mode is to connect a switch or remote.

However if you don't want to permanently install the switch/cable or the remote/receiver, then it's possible to raise the car, temporarily connect the switch to change to RACE mode, then remove the switch. Alternatively it's also possible to do what I read one person has done - permanently connect the switch and cable but leave the cable with switch coiled up in the spare wheel well. That way, the cable doesn't have to be run to the centre console.

[maximumxposure]

If the Gen 2 controller is installed without either the remote or the switch/cable, then it will default to SPORT mode, not RACE mode.

That's correct as per the instructions that I received with the unit.

[wfdTamar]

I've had a Gen 2 in my 2008 Skoda Octavia 4x4 wagon since Oct 2014. Cost about A$1500 (was discounted and I think the A$ was higher). It's the wireless version which is a doddle to install. Saves having another knob under/in the dash.

Being my 'nice' car I'm a little hesitant to really hoon in it (though it sure is set up for it), so it is a little hard to pick the difference on bitumen, but boy howdy (anyone remember Motor Mouse & Autocat?) on dirt roads it is fun. I just wish I could try it on a safe, closed road that has nice easy shoulders for a safe runoff.

If I'm just driving normal (not particularly windy) roads, particularly if for economy, I put it in Standard. If I'm on interesting roads or feel like a squirt, I put it in Sport. I've rarely used Race mode on bitumen and only a bit on dirt, but it really is noticeable how much drive goes to the rear.

[Jakeys]

Being my 'nice' car I'm a little hesitant to really hoon in it (though it sure is set up for it), so it is a little hard to pick the difference on bitumen, but boy howdy (anyone remember Motor Mouse & Autocat?) on dirt roads it is fun. I just wish I could try it on a safe, closed road that has nice easy shoulders for a safe runoff.

It's your 'nice' car so you don't want to hoon in it on bitumen, but you're happy to hit the dirt roads hard enough you notice the grip difference? Something doesn't add up there, haha.