R36 second (third/forth hand)...

[yeders]

Hi All,
I've always loved the R36, so I'm looking at purchasing one.
There are a few around at the 130-200km mark ranging from 10k-17k$ depending on spec/options and KM.

Given these are getting a bit older now, are larger problems starting to arise?
Any suggestions on what to look for, aside for regular servicing, oil leaks, engine codes etc.
Keen to hear opinions.
Not overly keen on the 2011-2014 passat v6. The Golf R wagon from 2015 are decent, but its definitely a price jump.

I'm focused on the 2010 my10 or my10.5 models.

Cheers
Yeders

[Matt86]

Hi All,
I've always loved the R36, so I'm looking at purchasing one.
There are a few around at the 130-200km mark ranging from 10k-17k$ depending on spec/options and KM.

Given these are getting a bit older now, are larger problems starting to arise?
Any suggestions on what to look for, aside for regular servicing, oil leaks, engine codes etc.
Keen to hear opinions.
Not overly keen on the 2011-2014 passat v6. The Golf R wagon from 2015 are decent, but its definitely a price jump.

I'm focused on the 2010 my10 or my10.5 models.

Cheers
Yeders

As a (fairly) recent R36 owner whose undergone quite a few issues along the way. You want to.

1. Scan the car for codes before even putting a deposit down, if you've got VCDS try and measure blocks 208 and 209 (these are for the timing chain stretch/wear)
2. Research said codes (if there are any)
3. If you cannot scan the car, get a pre purchase inspection done
4. You will want service history, buying without service history should be getting you the car a fair bit cheaper if you want to go that route though.
5. If there's history, you'll either want a lower km example that hasn't had the timing chain / clutch-packs replaced. Otherwise you'll likely want a higher km example that has had them both replaced. The general consensus is that the clutch-packs are a 160-250km item (depending on how it was driven/services) and the chain is around 160-200km item. Having both to do at once becomes very pricey.
6. Listen for timing chain rattle on cold start, you should expect a few seconds (usually 2-3 seconds), but it should not happen when the car is past this and it definitely shouldn't be happening at warm/hot.
7. Drive the car a tad harder on the test drive, change gears a bit when cold and hot. Ensure that the car gets up to temp while on the test drive (morso the box) and see how it acts then. Changes for the most part should be very quick on acceleration and (in my experience) a bit slower on downshifts as it'll rev match the motor first. Adding to this, do not downshift to 1 at all. I've found that going to 2 is sometimes harsh unless you're breaking or low revs in third and going down. Going to 1 is almost always a bad time and I've heard that it's bad for it as well.

A lot of that is based on my purchase and my regrets are not getting a mechanic to check it over and buying one without logbooks. I'll get to the point where it's all known, but for now it's a bit questionable (see my post about the timing chain noises).

Lastly, if you're purchasing a car with mods. Make sure you have most if not all of the OEM stuff incase you ever don't like x or y or something breaks/needs replacing/recall/warranty related things. I.E airbag recall, you'd ideally want to swap the airbag back over.

[minorityracer]

I agree with what's suggested above.

When I was hunting I realised that the Passat CC 3.6 was much better value for what is essentially the same vehicle.
Significantly better factory inclusions too.

The best cars are ones that have not gone through half a dozen owners.

[Matt86]

I agree with what's suggested above.

When I was hunting I realised that the Passat CC 3.6 was much better value for what is essentially the same vehicle.
Significantly better factory inclusions too.

The best cars are ones that have not gone through half a dozen owners.

100% agree, the R36 I don't feel (In Australia) will hold long term value unlike the R32 and Golf R's as they seem very sought after/popular here. Otherwise I'd disagree and say the R36 is a better buy.

There was a local CC near me when I was looking that was very cheap, I just didn't like the lights on it..

I think the R36 has different interior and around 30hp more which isn't insignificant. I do agree though, it is fairly close and if you aren't too fussed can usually be a very good deal vs an R36.

You either want to be buying a very cheap R36 that's had a lot of owners/kilometers and plan / have money to fix it in the long run OR buying it off a second owner with full service history.

I got gipped with mine, called a car yard "yes it has most of the service history".. booked tickets to see it and then was told "oh it has none.."

I ended up buying it as it seemed ok overall, was still a risk and I paid too much considering. I've changed almost all of the fluids over a year, all of the brakes (including calipers, I've sold the AP's that came with the car now) and the clutchpacks were covered under warranty.

My chain is likely due "soon". I'll hopefully get another 20k out of it (no noise, just a slight ticking). These can be very expensive cars to maintain.

[minorityracer]

100% agree, the R36 I don't feel (In Australia) will hold long term value unlike the R32 and Golf R's as they seem very sought after/popular here. Otherwise I'd disagree and say the R36 is a better buy.

There was a local CC near me when I was looking that was very cheap, I just didn't like the lights on it..

I think the R36 has different interior and around 30hp more which isn't insignificant. I do agree though, it is fairly close and if you aren't too fussed can usually be a very good deal vs an R36.

Yeah the Golf's seem to hold their value much much better. I don't know why. They were cheaper to purchase new but much more expensive used.

From the specs the HP should be identical (296hp) between the R36 and the CC V6. I think the R36 has firmer stock suspension but then the CC gets DCC. The seats padding is a little different between the two and the CC gets a newer steering wheel. Most of the earlier CC's are four seaters.

[Matt86]

Yeah the Golf's seem to hold their value much much better. I don't know why. They were cheaper to purchase new but much more expensive used.

From the specs the HP should be identical (296hp) between the R36 and the CC V6. The CC is about 100kg lighter which makes it a little faster in a straight line. I think the R36 has firmer stock suspension but then the CC gets DCC. The seats padding is a little different between the two and the CC gets a newer steering wheel. Most of the earlier CC's are four seaters.

There are two seater CC's? Wow ok didn't know that.

I thought the CC had the 3.6L 4mo Tune from the US and not the R36 tune.

[minorityracer]

There are two seater CC's? Wow ok didn't know that.

I thought the CC had the 3.6L 4mo Tune from the US and not the R36 tune.

No. The CC are either four or five seaters depending on year.

Power and torque levels are the same, I'm not aware of any differences in tune.

[Matt86]

No. The CC are either four or five seaters depending on year.

Power and torque levels are the same, I'm not aware of any differences in tune.

Ahh yeah ok, I saw one today actually lol.