Any Passat TDI owners required a top up before first service??

[OilBurna]

Over last couple of days the check oil warning light had come on and off intermittenly, rang Barloworld and they said come in get it checked and we will top it up.. Light had stayed off for a few days so assumed all ok, then went on a trip Friday to Barwon Heads (Melb) and the light was coming on again. Luckily I was only 25 mins from Rex Gorell VW on the outskirts of Geelong. Checked the dipstick and it was close to the min mark. Rang RG and they said come on in and we will check and top up. Went in and they topped it up straight away, only there for 10 mins or so used Castrol SLX, 5w 30? I think? Service tech said they recommend 1st service at 7500km rather than 15,000 as a pre cautionary measure. Aslo if you change oil yourself or the correct oil / viscosity isn't used then VW won;t warrant your engine?

Has anyone else required a top up before 1st service and where can you buy the Castrol oil from? Guess not unusual for an engine to use a bit of oil when running in, previous cars I have had, 1st service always at 1,000km I know with Subaru they give you a 1 litre container of oil to keep for top ups. Looks like I am living up to my forum name heheh,

[rodc]

I had to top mine up after about 2,000 km and the same happened to a friend of mine. Now up to 12,000 km and have not had to top it up since. I bought the oil from Barloworld.

[OzBoz]

Over last couple of days the check oil warning light had come on and off intermittenly,

I have the same engine in my Jetta, and have not had any oil problems. I would suggest that you keep a close eye (daily) on your oil level, and carry a can in the boot til the problem is resolved. As far as I'm aware, oil burning should not occur, even with a new engine. I assume you have checked the garage floor for leaks, which sounds more likely.

Service tech said they recommend 1st service at 7500km rather than 15,000 as a pre cautionary measure.

Good advice. I've had similar advice from service dpartments of other makes of car. 15,000km is a big selling plus for the manufacturers, but is a bad practice. Would you drive your car from Melbourne to London without an oil change and a safety check?

Aslo if you change oil yourself or the correct oil / viscosity isn't used then VW won;t warrant your engine?

Incorrect oil, fair enough, but anyone can change the oil without voiding the warranty, provided the correct oil is used.

Cheers

Brian

[OilBurna]

thanks brian, I meant not using the right oil, vs changing it yourself. No traces of oil at all on the garage floor. I thought it was not uncommon for new engines to use some oil when running in? Anyone else comment of have similiar issues and 12 months / 15,000km is too long imho. Might get some spare oil for top up as will be doing a long trip in March.

[vw50]

oil- passat tdi

Hello Burna....

Yep, I had to top my tdi up also. The handbook says they use oil as a matter fo course. Check the book for the type of oil to use. In Aust, we dont have 'longlife service' so you get the recommended oil. You get it at dealers only as it is a special castrol brew for vw diesels. Comes in a 5l container. I got a 1l bottle of the imported German oil from the dealer near me. DONT OVERFILL ABOVE THE TOP MARK, AS IT CAN DAMAGE THE CATALITIC CONVERTER

That dipstick must be the worlds worst. I find it hard to find the oil level on the dark metal. Should give VW a rocket over this-not user frinedly.!!!!


regards,

VW50.

[OilBurna]

thanks vw50 for the advice, will get some from the dealer for top ups and will not over fill either. Agree with the dipstick - correct very hard to read, not much room between min / max either. I think they should adjust the interval for the 1st service to 7,500km.

[Mischa]

thanks vw50 for the advice, will get some from the dealer for top ups and will not over fill either. Agree with the dipstick - correct very hard to read, not much room between min / max either. I think they should adjust the interval for the 1st service to 7,500km.

you can hardly call it a service, its simply an oil change and quick check with the computer - 350$ thank you very much.

just do the oil change yourself and if you're that worried take it to a euro car specialist for them to hook up to their computer... or just buy the stupid vag com and rosstech software/cable yourself it'll still cost you less than the first service

[OilBurna]

where can these items be purchased from mischa, and yes not too hard to do it yourself, is the filter hard to change? any links anywhere to a workshop manual - thanks

[Mischa]

where can these items be purchased from mischa, and yes not too hard to do it yourself, is the filter hard to change? any links anywhere to a workshop manual - thanks

theres no manual from bentley publishers that covers the new tdi's yet as its produced mainly for the states so it only has the gti engine in it. you'd have to get it from the volkswagen erwin service https://erwin.volkswagen.de/erwin/sh...1EA57.ASTPVWE1 although i think it would be pretty expensive.

as for the cables and computer software for diagnosing, clearing and changing options within the car's computer, the general consensus is that the rosstech product http://www.ross-tech.com/ is the best one to go for (called vag-com).

if you do the oil change yourself, remember to use the right oil only available at the dealer parts shop. oil should be about 80$ plus an 18$ filter and your around the 100 mark for an oil change - expensive by jap car standards but a heck of a lot cheaper than what the dealer will charge you.

the filter is apparently slightly messy to change since there is a housing around it, but nothing too tricky - anyone should be able to do it... although i havent done it myself

[OilBurna]

mischa thanks for that, almost worth it to order the cables and license as peace of mind as stated. Might get the services done while under warranty then look at changing the oil myself after that.

[Mischa]

mischa thanks for that, almost worth it to order the cables and license as peace of mind as stated. Might get the services done while under warranty then look at changing the oil myself after that.

the minimum services should of course be done by the workshop if not for anything except the stamp in the book, but for the interim optional oil changes every 7500 i will be doing them myself

[OilBurna]

looks like we are not alone.

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=22294

these are the instructions from a guy who did it on an EOS TDI...

I Changed the oil in my Eos today. The instructions are basically that of the linked PDF above, with a few minor changes. Two things I would say is that if you are a beginner, give yourself several hours to get the job done so you can take your time. Also if you have access to a lift or similar, it will make your life A LOT easier. You'll see why below.
Tools:
1/2 Socket + Ratchet
T25 Torx Driver
Channel Lock Pliers or 36mm Socket
Adjustable Wrench or Vacuum Evacuator

Supplies:
4.5 Quarts of 502.00 oil (I used Mobil1 0W40)
Fram CH9911 or similar oil Filter (be forewarned, I had to special order it even though several cars VW/Audi makes use this same engine and filter)
14 x 1.5 x 22 Replacement oil plug with washer (if you don't use the evacuator)

The first step is to get some room to work, so put the car up on ramps or a lift (preferable). Pull the emergency break, put it in park, and chock the wheels. I'm not taking the fall for you crushing yourself dang it.

Next, open the hood and loosen the oil filler cap, leaving it covering the hole so no dirt gets in. Just make sure air can get through.

Then get your T25, and your half inch socket, and undo the Ten(!) Torx screws and Eight(!!) half inch bolts holding the metal skid plate onto the car. This is where all that room a lift provides will keep you from cussing up a storm and cracking a few knuckles.

After you've carefully put the screws and bolts away for safe keeping and put your skid plate out of the way, you'll see the oil filter on the front side of the car. Unscrew the end-cap (attached by a tether), slide your drain pan underneath and the use your torx driver to push the orange nipple upwards so the oil will drain out. Or you could spend $80 on the (not so) glorified funnel called the T40057 Oil drain adapter. Either way. You don't even have to hold the nipple up, so why you'd spend that kind of money on something like that I will never understand. It has $.02 of hose and maybe $.25 of brass in it. Aaaanywho...

If you're using an evacuator, skip the next step...

After the oil has drained from the filter, move your pan rearward about a foot and a half and towards the passenger side slightly. There, when you face the front of the car, you'll see the oil plug. Loosen it with your adjustable wrench, and undo it by hand. Since you're replacing the oil plug, you can just let it fall into the drain pan as the oil starts to drain. Be aware that the oil will have a tendancy to shoot out 4-5 inches rearward, so you'll have to make allowances for your drain pan location.

This step applies to both methods...

Then go back to the oil filter, and loosen it with your channel locks or the 36mm Socket. If you've let it drain thoroughly, it won't make a mess when you unscrew it. Then take the bottom half of the filter to the trash, dump out the filter material, and pull out the rubber o-ring inside the plastic housing. I also like to wipe out the filter housing with a clean rag to get all the bits that may be in there out, although I don't think this step is strictly necessary. Replace the new filter and o-ring, make sure the orange oil drain for the lower filter housing has re-seated correctly in the bottom of the housing by moving it until the springs push it back into place, and then relax for a minute. You're half way done!

If you're using an evacuator, skip the next step...

After all the oil has drained from the oil pan, put your new drain plug in, and tighten securely, without over tightening it (that would be BAD).

If you're draining via the oil plug skip the next step....

If you're using the evacuator, it's time to suck some oil. Follow the directions for your evacuator, but most use the dipstick tube to remove the oil from the oil pan. After you've sucked all there is to suck, relax! You're half-way done!

The following steps apply to both methods...

Now replace the oil filter/housing. You'll have to press firmly to seat the new filter onto the top part of the housing, then tighten it hand-tight. There is no need to tighten with the wrench or socket, in fact I recommend against using them. Hand tight is all that is necessary, you will feel the o-ring compress slightly before you can no longer turn it by hand.

Remove the oil filler cap completely now, and fill with 4.5 quarts of oil. After filling, replace the cap, start the engine, let it idle, and check under the car for leaks at the drain plug and oil filter. If there are none, turn off the car, replace the tethered cap for the oil filter, and replace your Eight bolts and 10 torx screws that hold up the skid-plate.

Finally move the car off the ramps/lift to a level area. Give the car some time to let all the oil drain into the pan, check the oil level with the dipstick, and add oil as necessary. This is also where I check the book for all the other things that need to be done during the current Service Interval. The last step is to reset the service indicator following these instructions: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2929207 I also like to check the oil level once a day for the next few days to confirm that everything is ok. Of course I think you should do that no matter who changes your oil.

Dispose of your waste responsibly and revel in the fact that you just saved yourself a bunch of money, and you didn't even have to switch to Geico.

this thread is also useful.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2949070

[Mischa]

looks like we are not alone.

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=22294

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2929207

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2949070

cool thanks good links
this shows the silly oil filter cover i mentioned. looks like its pretty much the same as replacing the oil on any other car.