Poor Performance with Conti Sport 3's

[gead]

what brad said...ralph or zac at trutrack.....they did mine when i took delivery....

[szikou]

Thanks guys.

I read online that Trutrack are supposed to be very good. Will give them a call

Trutrack Car Suspension Melbourne | Car Suspension | Melbourne Dynamic Wheel Balancing

[Nebo1]

V6Passat - thanks for your advice.. i might take that up one day when i buy myslef a nice tan set of Hush Puppies and a cardigan to match.

[Dr Block]

V6Passat - thanks for your advice.. i might take that up one day when i buy myslef a nice tan set of Hush Puppies and a cardigan to match.

Don't forget to wear your lawn bowls hat when you're driving as well.

[Rob Burns]

Was the Right front worse? If so, there's probably a bit of a toe-out issue.

How does a toe issue cause more wear on one tyre than the other on the same axle?


To the OP: Make sure you get a 4 wheel alignment not just a front alignment. The front wheels are aligned off the rear so if your rear is out then your front is out.

As for longer wearing tyres, all tyres have wear rating on the side. The lower the number the less life you will get out of them. High performance tyres generally range between 100 and 300. Anything higher than that will generally be an all purpose tyre.
Also be careful of finding deals on tyres. I had a customer during the week that had found Continentals for $280 each. There are a few manufacturers that have manufacturing facilities in countries like Malaysia and Indonesia. The tyres are marked the same but the rubber used to make them is inferior. I'm sure Michelin is another one like that which is shame as Michelin are (IMO) the best tyres.

[brad]

How does a toe issue cause more wear on one tyre than the other on the same axle?

camber of the road. For RHD counries, if you don't give them a fraction more -ve on the left to compensate for the road camber then you have to "steer" up the camber of the road. If you have toe-out then the RH wheel tends to wear a bit more on the inside; toe-in & the LH wears a bit more on the outside.

[Rob Burns]

camber of the road. For RHD counries, if you don't give them a fraction more -ve on the left to compensate for the road camber then you have to "steer" up the camber of the road. If you have toe-out then the RH wheel tends to wear a bit more on the inside; toe-in & the LH wears a bit more on the outside.

I have never seen a wheel alignment where there is specifications for left and right toe. There is only a specification for total toe. For example a SAAB 9-3 has a total toe of .28 degrees on the front. This equals out to .14 degrees on either side. Now you could adjust the toe on the left to .18 and the toe on the right to be .10. However because the car wants to drive straight it will naturally counter that and make it so that there is .14 on either side and the steering wheel will be off centre.

[brad]

I have never seen a wheel alignment where there is specifications for left and right toe. There is only a specification for total toe. For example a SAAB 9-3 has a total toe of .28 degrees on the front. This equals out to .14 degrees on either side. Now you could adjust the toe on the left to .18 and the toe on the right to be .10. However because the car wants to drive straight it will naturally counter that and make it so that there is .14 on either side and the steering wheel will be off centre.

I never said to set the toe un-evenly - that would give a crooked steering wheel because the wheels self-centre.

I said the wear is caused by the camber of the road - you have to steer into the camber to maintain a straight line, therefore if you have toe out, the LH wheel tends to run straight ahead & the right hand wheel is the one pointing up the hill keeping the car straight - which causes it to wear on the inside more the the LH hand one.