Melb to Adelaide trip in new Tiguan

[nishgoel]

Hi all,

Planning a trip from Melbourne to Adelaide within a week of picking up the new Tiguan Allspace.

I have researched online but getting mixed information if running in a new engine is required or not. Haven't picked up the car yet so can't refer to the manual.

Appreciate any advice if this trip will be ok or not.

Thanks

[Guest001]

It just suggests you dont rev it out past 60% of full power and I would vary road speed abit and not just keep it on same revs for long periods

They are factory run in supposedly but everything else has to bed in as well, brakes take a bit to do so, so no tailgating LOL

Check oil before u go and when u get to other end

They all use 504/507 according to the sticker by the bonnet lock Penrite Enviro+ is good and cheaper than Castrol Titanium LL

[tigger73]

I picked my car up in Mount Gambier and drove it back to Adelaide.

Just don't use cruise control if you can avoid it so your speed/rpm will naturally vary up/down a little.

Check your oil and coolant. I'd recommend keeping a 1l bottle of approved oil in the car if you're going to be travelling outside metro areas.

Also don't be afraid to give it some beans - just don't run it to redline. Use the paddle shifters (if you have them) to short shift the gears at 4,500-5,000 rpm rather than letting the gears run out.

[Simonr23]

A road trip is a great way to run it in. Some
Gentle inclined to load it up a bit, some gentle cruising. Some stops and starts. Gives the car a bit of everything.

When passing, best not to give it 100% throttle and rev usage, but still drive ‘normal’

When you’re out on your own, do a bit of gentle braking down to 50-60ish and then accelerate up to 100-110 at a decent rate- to break up the areas where you’re stuck on a flat stretch of road (ie- no chance to vary engine load and revs)

Or, just spend a few mins doing the speed limit in 6th, then a few in 5th, then back into auto (7th) and repeat every now and then.

Overall, the car will love it.

[nishgoel]

Great advice all. Much appreciated. Feel much more confident now to go ahead with the trip!

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

You want to load it up, just drive it hard to be honest.

I put ours into S mode and set the TPS at 100% lol. On it's 2nd tank of fuel, it saw a dozen hard launches with launch control.

A few weeks later, took it on unsealed roads and spun all fours in the mud.

12k kms later and oil wise it's at the half way mark where as other people who have some what "babied" theirs have gotten low oil warning.

[Guest001]

You want to load it up, just drive it hard to be honest.

I put ours into S mode and set the TPS at 100% lol. On it's 2nd tank of fuel, it saw a dozen hard launches with launch control.

A few weeks later, took it on unsealed roads and spun all fours in the mud.

12k kms later and oil wise it's at the half way mark where as other people who have some what "babied" theirs have gotten low oil warning.

Makes a mockery of it saying in the manual not to take revs over 60% but what do the makers know.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Makes a mockery of it saying in the manual not to take revs over 60% but what do the makers know.

Each to their own, but I always put fresh built motors through a beating if not it's strapped onto the dyno and it's load held at different RPMs, different engine load points. Oil comes out, then it's straight into tuning.

It's not 1960 anymore, everything is built to the thousand of an inch and bores are done by precise machinery.

But like I said, each to their own and I respect anyone's opinion - however the worst thing you can do is baby a new motor.

[Guest001]

Each to their own, but I always put fresh built motors through a beating if not it's strapped onto the dyno and it's load held at different RPMs, different engine load points. Oil comes out, then it's straight into tuning.

It's not 1960 anymore, everything is built to the thousand of an inch and bores are done by precise machinery.

But like I said, each to their own and I respect anyone's opinion - however the worst thing you can do is baby a new motor.

However its not a racecar and while you dont baby them I have always been taught to vary revs etc but NOT thrash it.

More than just the engine to bed in and if Im spending $60k on a car im not going to do launches just to see if it will.

Your car do what you like but that is not the advice I would give a caring owner

[Transporter]

However its not a racecar and while you dont baby them I have always been taught to vary revs etc but NOT thrash it.

More than just the engine to bed in and if Im spending $60k on a car im not going to do launches just to see if it will.

Your car do what you like but that is not the advice I would give a caring owner

I have to agree with you.
The modern diesels will happily rev to the redline and very quickly, before you notice it will go passing the red. That’s not something you want to do to the new engine.
Load it up, accelerate and decelerate but stay from the redline, try not to go over 3,000rpm for TDI over the redline for TSI to often, the needle can and will go close to the redline, but don’t stay there for too long. You will end up with the glazed cylinder bores and high oil usage, forever burning oil.

The machinery that build today’s engines are the same, if you consider the cutting tips of the tools and that’s all what matters.
The inside tolerances changed, the engines are built to closer tolerances and therefore will generate the same or more heat than ever before. The engine oil will fry on overheated cylinder bores if you abuse it - glazing them. Once you glazed them, you have to remove the cylinder head and deglaze (hone) the cylinder bores.

Talking about the fine surfaces and no need to run in the engine anymore?
The cylinder walls (bores) and pistons are made with way much coarser surfaces than let say ball bearings and they still need to be run in.

https://www.skf.com/au/products/bearings-units-housings/super-precision-bearings/principles/lubrication/grease-lubrication/running-in-of-grease-lubricated-bearings/index.html

If you’re worried that you can hurt your engine while running in and you’re not sure what people mean when they say run it in hard? Go with the manufacturers recommendation, it’s safe.

Otherwise my technique is; use the hills accelerate and decelerate as after as you can once the engine temp is over 70degC. First 100km of engines life is very important, engine can be driven normally after 1500km. Hook up your trailer if you have one after 500km. Always observe the OIL temperature, don’t let it go over 120degC.
Change that engine oil and filter at 1500km.
I’ve never had an engine that required excessive oil top ups between services. If any.

[FastMitch]

Otherwise my technique is; use the hills accelerate and decelerate as after as you can once the engine temp is over 70degC. First 100km of engines life is very important, engine can be driven normally after 1500km. Hook up your trailer if you have one after 500km. Always observe the OIL temperature, don’t let it go over 120degC.
Change that engine oil and filter at 1500km.
I’ve never had an engine that required excessive oil top ups between services. If any.

What is the need to change the oil and oil filter at 1500 km ?

[Transporter]

What is the need to change the oil and oil filter at 1500 km ?

It’s how I run the engine in. You feel free to change your oil in car manufacturer recommend intervals.

[Simonr23]

I assume his reason is to fully remove any remaining free pieces of metal that were left over from the manufacturing/early bedding in processes that happen during run-in. They hopefully end up trapped in the filter(and not at the oil pump inlet mesh)

It’s possible for them to block the filter, or escape and then have the chance to cause damage- beyond any that may have occurred on the way into the filter.

I do the oil change part, but trust/gamble that if there were enough metal parts that they can now escape/block the filter, then there were probably enough to have already caused issues- warranty can deal with it.

The oil change, I’ve always done and liked for new engines. Mainly a habit from my motorcycle background.

When I was living in the country, I wouldn’t bother doing intermediate oil changes, due to the nature of my car/bike use. Now I’m in the city and doing lots of short/slow trips, I do a half-way oil change on all my cars. then let the dealer do their scheduled yearly service (warranty) too.

Cheers.

[FastMitch]

It’s how I run the engine in. You feel free to change your oil in car manufacturer recommend intervals.

Do you do the 1500 km oil change yourself or do it at a dealer ?

[doc_777]

I used to do circa 1500km changes on new vehicles ‘back in the day’ but don’t any longer. My personal stance is that machining technologies have evolved to a point, and assembly line process improved so much, the likelihood of having sufficient material in the oil at that early stage to warrant changing is negligible, can understand why people do it though, it’s cheap enough insurance.

to those that do an early change, have you ever sent a sample of that early changed oil off for analysis? If so, what was the result? I’m talking the last few years, not 20 years ago.

am sue the op has all the info they need by now, but I reckon a good road trip like that is a brilliant way to settle in a drivetrain. Good heat cycle, plenty of load changes through terrain undulations, and a wide enough rev range variation simply by going through whatever towns you encounter along the way.