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I posted pics in another thread about my sub boxes, and because someone asked, i figure id share what ive done here:
The guts of the system is;
Alpine X308AU Amarok deck, comes with specific amarok facia and all interface cables, including for steering wheel controls
mod cable for late model reverse camera made by Jay Standerwick (wicks wires on facebook and youtube)
stinger RCA cables
Helix S62C front splits - front
Helix S6X coaxials - rear
Hybrid Unity U10SW- S slimline subs
Amarok custom sub boxes from basser - Basser - FBvw23 VW Amarok L Fit-Box subwoofer enclosure (both left and right)
Helix M4 DSP amp - speakers
Helix M1 X amp - subs
Stinger roadkill sound deadening on all 4 doors and rear firewall
NB to use the basser cabinets, the drivers side requires the middle rear seatbelt buckle to be moved to the far left bolt on the seat mounting point for clearance.
Tweeter required the factory tweeter mesh to be cut out. could possibly do it with the tweets inside this fitting but i didnt want to remove the tweeters protective grille.
Fitting these boxes did require custom cutting of the rear firewall vanity covering. Measure twice, cut once, only get one go at it if you go too big
spacing in between the sub boxes
I used a small right angle brackt to hold them against the firewall, otherwise they are simply sitting on the floor. Tools and Jack ive relocated to a secure lockable poly tub in the tray that swings over the wheel tub.
drivers door - for sound deadening, i did all 4, and the rear firewall, but only took pics of the drivers door. i made rain covers to go where the factory foam is from 3mm mdf, with plastic sheet glued to it, then roadkill over the top.
Roadkilled the entire interior of the door panel. getting to the frotn part of the door is difficult and you will likely cut your hands.
Double sided tape to seal against the door
Finished door. I used 19MM MDF for the speaker rings, Drilled the factory rivets out iand installed M6 Nutserts
Insider thedoor trim, i used 6mm foam, and cloth tape around all the inserts (window controls etc). I had to replace most of the plastic door panel clips, they are terrible to get off without breaking.
The M1X is a long amp, i installed mine under the rear passenger site seat front
The M4 DSP is under the passenger front seat. The seat has to be on max height to allow this, otherwise the seat storage bin will hit the amp
So thats my system. Still havent tuned the DSP properly, but with nearly 1500 Watts available, it hits hard, the Helix speakers go down to nearly 40 hz, so tuning is relatively simple, with loads of mid bass, and the twin 10s probably would like a larger enclosure each, but even with the measly 12lt each they have, they dig relatively deep and are crisp and hit like hammers in the back..
When i get time form this covid madness, ill head down to see Jay at phatt Audio, and get him to tune if for me properly..
Hope this helps people wanting to upgrade thier system. happy to answer questions too.
The guts of the system is;
Alpine X308AU Amarok deck, comes with specific amarok facia and all interface cables, including for steering wheel controls
mod cable for late model reverse camera made by Jay Standerwick (wicks wires on facebook and youtube)
stinger RCA cables
Helix S62C front splits - front
Helix S6X coaxials - rear
Hybrid Unity U10SW- S slimline subs
Amarok custom sub boxes from basser - Basser - FBvw23 VW Amarok L Fit-Box subwoofer enclosure (both left and right)
Helix M4 DSP amp - speakers
Helix M1 X amp - subs
Stinger roadkill sound deadening on all 4 doors and rear firewall
NB to use the basser cabinets, the drivers side requires the middle rear seatbelt buckle to be moved to the far left bolt on the seat mounting point for clearance.
Tweeter required the factory tweeter mesh to be cut out. could possibly do it with the tweets inside this fitting but i didnt want to remove the tweeters protective grille.
Fitting these boxes did require custom cutting of the rear firewall vanity covering. Measure twice, cut once, only get one go at it if you go too big
spacing in between the sub boxes
I used a small right angle brackt to hold them against the firewall, otherwise they are simply sitting on the floor. Tools and Jack ive relocated to a secure lockable poly tub in the tray that swings over the wheel tub.
drivers door - for sound deadening, i did all 4, and the rear firewall, but only took pics of the drivers door. i made rain covers to go where the factory foam is from 3mm mdf, with plastic sheet glued to it, then roadkill over the top.
Roadkilled the entire interior of the door panel. getting to the frotn part of the door is difficult and you will likely cut your hands.
Double sided tape to seal against the door
Finished door. I used 19MM MDF for the speaker rings, Drilled the factory rivets out iand installed M6 Nutserts
Insider thedoor trim, i used 6mm foam, and cloth tape around all the inserts (window controls etc). I had to replace most of the plastic door panel clips, they are terrible to get off without breaking.
The M1X is a long amp, i installed mine under the rear passenger site seat front
The M4 DSP is under the passenger front seat. The seat has to be on max height to allow this, otherwise the seat storage bin will hit the amp
So thats my system. Still havent tuned the DSP properly, but with nearly 1500 Watts available, it hits hard, the Helix speakers go down to nearly 40 hz, so tuning is relatively simple, with loads of mid bass, and the twin 10s probably would like a larger enclosure each, but even with the measly 12lt each they have, they dig relatively deep and are crisp and hit like hammers in the back..
When i get time form this covid madness, ill head down to see Jay at phatt Audio, and get him to tune if for me properly..
Hope this helps people wanting to upgrade thier system. happy to answer questions too.
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