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I always wait until the oil temp is north of 80C. I have at least 1 point on each drive where I push it hard.
Never got close to 500-550km on a tank unless I do a lot of freeway driving. Typical daily use sees me around the 450-475km mark.
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What drive mode do you use? Mines set to individual, [Springs on comfrot, rest on Race] great for daily use, and keeps exhaust flaps open, for the crackle and pop on decell. How do you find your JB1? i cooked my stock clutch in 4,000ks as soon as i got the tune done by apr. now currently running a carbon ceramic kit, with a single mass flywheel. Dyno run at 224 all wheel kilowatts.
What drive mode do you use? Mines set to individual, [Springs on comfrot, rest on Race] great for daily use, and keeps exhaust flaps open, for the crackle and pop on decell. How do you find your JB1? i cooked my stock clutch in 4,000ks as soon as i got the tune done by apr. now currently running a carbon ceramic kit, with a single mass flywheel. Dyno run at 224 all wheel kilowatts.
For most of my daily use, I use Individual with suspension and steering on Comfort, engine on normal and a/c and sound on Eco. It keeps the exhaust sound down when I leave the house early in the morning.
When I want to have some fun, I switch straight to Race!
Love the JB1, it complements the engine really well. I run it in a clutch-protecting map (6, I think) to reduce the intervention in the lower gears/rev range which does develop a bit of a non-OEM style bump around 3k RPM.
Car currently has 20,400km on it. I have always felt the stock clutch is not very good (so easy to slip it) so I expect I will replace it in the next 6months and then I will switch the JB1 to something a bit more potent!
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MY08 Mk5 GT Sport - sold MY14 Tiguan 118TSI - sold (Mazda3 SP25GT in its place) MY16 Golf 7R: sold (Caterham Super 7 and Hyundai i30N in its place)
What do you have to do to wreck a clutch in those K's?
I suspect it was the APR tune contributing. The manual clutch isn't great. It's quite light and very easy to slip. I've removed the helper spring from the pedal which improved some of the dead feeling but the real culprit is a restrictor in the clutch line as it seems to make the clutch slower to engage than you're expecting. There is an ECS Tuning alternative or it is possible to drill out the restrictor from the OEM plastic part - I've not been game to do either yet.
I notice that I have to be careful on fast upshifts as it's very easy to have the gas on before the plates bite. I encounter it most when doing Hill starts and the car releases the handbrake before the clutch bites, causing you to shoot backwards or dump it with a load of revs on to catch it - which makes it slip.
As my driveway is a 25% gradient, it's a right PITA. I either shoot back out into the road or end up in the garage with a smelly clutch.
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MY08 Mk5 GT Sport - sold MY14 Tiguan 118TSI - sold (Mazda3 SP25GT in its place) MY16 Golf 7R: sold (Caterham Super 7 and Hyundai i30N in its place)
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