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When to tune or at what KMs stage 1 it

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  • When to tune or at what KMs stage 1 it

    Hi all

    First time owning a R 7.5.

    Had it now for a few months. No issues. But after driving a mates stage 1 R... my god the difference between stock and stage 1 wants to me get stage 1.

    Only done 3000km. So should i wait for the 1 yr mark in december to see if any issues will come up before stage 1 or just do it now?

    I know ill void the warranty but is it worth it? What if something fked up?

    I heard about the jb4 but i probably prefer the software version.

    If anyone have any sh*t or great experiences or at what KMs u stage1 it pls let me know.
    Last edited by Space_; 20-05-2018, 09:25 PM.

  • #2
    I'd suggest to wait as long as you can to around 12 months or 10k km in that time car should have shown any warranty issues.

    In saying that I only lasted about 6 months and 5k km on my Mk7 R back in 2014 before going APR stage 1. I'm now stage 2 HO and 4yrs and almost 50k km down. I have had water pump go at about 40k km mark out of warranty and was about $1500 repair. I think that is less likely with upgraded water pumps in the 7.5 R and newer revision turbo's less likely to fail also.

    I'd say with good maintenance and common sense driving you shouldn't have any issues at all but also be prepared in that 1/100 chance you get turbo failure, haldex/water pump issue then your looking at $1500+ repairs.

    Comment


    • #3
      Even if you're tuned if your water pump goes under warranty you're still covered for that. You don't void your whole warranty just by tuning but you will void the warranty on engine/drive-train components.

      Some people will take a brand new car straight from the dealership and tune it from day 1. Others wait for some time until they're happy that any manufacturing faults would have shown. There's a 3rd group who wait until their warranty expires and modify then.

      It really depends how risk averse you are and that's only something that you can decide.

      Having said that now that you know what you're missing out on you have to decide on fun vs. playing it safe. The R's only really come alive with a tune - you really need the extra torque/power to overcome the weight of running an AWD system to make it feel properly quick. But be warned it's a slippery slope once you start modifying....

      2017 Tiguan Sportline - Tigger73's 162TSI Sportline

      2016 Scirocco R, stage 1, 205kwaw (sold) - Tigger73's Scirocco R Build
      2013 Tiguan 155TSI, stage 1, 144kwaw (sold) - Tigger73's 155TSI Build
      2011 Tiguan 125TSI, Stage 2+, 152kwaw (sold)
      - Tigger73's 125TSI Build


      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by mp2811 View Post
        turbo failure.
        How much is a turbo failure cost to repair or replace?

        Originally posted by mp2811 View Post
        haldex issue
        From what i saw after doing a quick search on google, awd becomes fwd. any other issues? And how much will this cost me in repairs?

        Originally posted by tigger73 View Post
        decide on fun vs. playing it safe.
        I am willling to pay to play up to a certain point though but still in saying that i am undecided on if i want warranty or not.

        Want to have an idea on any repairs costs if something fked up as this is the first time i have own some sort of sports/performance car
        Last edited by Space_; 21-05-2018, 08:32 AM.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re haldex issues generally at worst it's haldex pump which is about $1000 to fix. Mine is slightly playing up now when taking off fast in Race mode top end power 5k+ rpm in first gear the traction kicks in which is a known software issue in earlier models. I'm getting software update in couple weeks $170 cost.

          Regarding Turbo replacement It's probably $2k for replacement new turbo from USA, I'd probably source second hand one with low KM and then get it balanced and minor adjustments at turbo place before install. But it's also around $1000 install costs and can generally damage the CAT.

          Many people that have had it fail take it as opportunity to go stage 3 and for about $6500 you can get Racingline Stage 3 turbo and fuel pump installed and have 500+hp car. But those who do that are generally stage 2 tuned with upgraded IC etc.

          My thoughts are if you're happy enough stock stay that way as long as possible, once you feel you really need to tune to enjoy the car that's the time to do it.

          I can accept that now in 4yrs I've spent $1750 on repairs which hopefully nothing else should go wrong. If I can get to 8yrs and 100k km with a 400hp stage 2 tuned car with no other issues then I'm more than happy.

          Also Like Tiger stated with Haldex, water pump and even turbo known issues I've heard many times that they have been replaced under warranty even on tuned cars.

          Comment


          • #6
            I went to Exoticars straight out off the showroom floor and had a downpipe, intake and stage 2 GIAC installed.... 4 years later, 120k on the clock/ multiple runs at WSID, track days and hard driving it has never skipped a beat . The only extra costs was the in between oil changes at 7.5k

            If you are worried about warranty buy the jb4 until you are comfortable your car is a good one, ive gone this path with my new rs245
            Polo GTI
            T-Roc R
            Tiguan R
            Tiguan 162 Allspace Wolfsburg

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by mp2811 View Post
              haldex pump which is about $1000

              $2k for replacement new turbo from USA

              about $6500 you can get Racingline Stage 3 turbo and fuel pump installed and have 500+hp car.
              Thanks man good info on some of the costs

              Originally posted by VR28LT View Post
              I went to Exoticars straight out off the showroom floor and had a downpipe, intake and stage 2 GIAC installed.... 4 years later, 120k on the clock/ multiple runs at WSID, track days and hard driving it has never skipped a beat . The only extra costs was the in between oil changes at 7.5k

              If you are worried about warranty buy the jb4 until you are comfortable your car is a good one, ive gone this path with my new rs245
              Wow. Baller. Might sit on it for another month and see if any other posters will post

              But i have that slight urge to get done

              Hmm afterthought- how much would stage 2 cost me?
              Last edited by Space_; 22-05-2018, 11:12 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Lol tuning and modding are a slippery slope so many things you can do
                Up to almost 10k now in mods and another 1200 or so in 2 weeks
                2017 Golf Alltrack 135tdi All options
                19 inch Brescia Wheels Golf R brakes front and rear
                Calipers painted Candy apple gold
                New rear sway bar and linkages

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hmm afterthought- how much would stage 2 cost me?[/QUOTE]

                  My advice would be go get custom tune done "stage 1" with inlet pipe and intake or intake box modified. If you want any nice induction then intake is worth it. Being 7.5R with the 7SP no need to get DSG tune to handle the extra torque.

                  You can get custom tunes for around $800-1000 and inlet pipe is good cheap mod $200. If you go intake I see it mainly for induction noise so I'd probably go open style like IE or similar. Not sure on prices $500-900 depending on brand and type.

                  Going stage 2 will cost about another $1500-2500 for DP installed and updated tune. In the 7R we also needed the DSG tune to cope with the torque and also improve driving modes.

                  I'd suggest going custom stage 1 first with inlet and intake and see how you go best bang for buck. Another good little mod that's cheap is dogbone/trans insert that tightens up transmission and only about $70.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    As for stage 2 its a downpipe along with the stage 2 tune much fatter torque curve with stage 2 over 1 from what i read main extra cost is pipe plus labour
                    Think a good pipe is 1300 or so
                    You can do intake as well more cost of course another 1300 for a full system from revo or vwr
                    Good luck
                    2017 Golf Alltrack 135tdi All options
                    19 inch Brescia Wheels Golf R brakes front and rear
                    Calipers painted Candy apple gold
                    New rear sway bar and linkages

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      thanks for the tips all

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Space_ View Post
                        thanks for the tips all
                        Done three GTI with APR stage 1 after a few months from new , never had an issue , did do a coil at 35k in the last one , maybe a factor , maybe not .

                        Remember don't tell your insurance co any thing .
                        GTI clubsport/edition 40 manual white 2016

                        Mercedes Benz A200 AMG pack red 2016

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Took my mine for a burn today... 2 k got the tune and still going strong after another 5k of what the car is meant to be... should be good for 100k easily! GO GET EM MATE!!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by slin View Post
                            Took my mine for a burn today... 2 k got the tune and still going strong after another 5k of what the car is meant to be... should be good for 100k easily! GO GET EM MATE!!
                            Is yours the 7.5 R?

                            Just wondering, would it affect the sound of the exhaust? I like the current stock sound not too deep and not too light

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Space_ View Post
                              Is yours the 7.5 R?

                              Just wondering, would it affect the sound of the exhaust? I like the current stock sound not too deep and not too light
                              Yes mine is a 7.5 R - sounds the same as before. Still burbles and pops as before the tune.
                              I too like the current exhaust as this car does not attract attention. Same can be said about the rest of the R.
                              All looks and sounds stock .

                              To get the best effect I have the windows down to hear them. Windows up there is not much point unless the sound is in Race due to the cabin being insulated for sound.
                              I have taken to the soundaktor tuned down in individual and listening to the exhaust in S windows down.
                              I find myself enjoying the tune as the car feels a lot lighter in power to weight and the right foot pedal puts overtaking any vehicle into
                              ”like a boss” catagory.

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