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Help and advice needed please. One or some of my hydraulic lifters are noisy and maybe lazy (lazy lifter). Are there any tips on checking these and can this be done by just taking the valve cover off or do the cams and timing chain need to be moved or touched.
Have you tried the MBl8 yet and gave it time to work?? haven't heard back??
Cheers
Jmac
Alba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
I was just going to Facebook you. After my oil change yesterday I got my mechanics to see or hear what they both thought. Straight away the heard the noise and said a possible lazy lifter noise and this would also be causing the little miss fires or stumble as the valve that belongs to this lifter is not opening and closing properly. They are going to take the valve cover off on Monday and see if they can spot it and also see if they can change them. Not sure if they have to take off the cams and timing chain. I think if they can do the job just to change them all while the cover is off as I have read trying to test for a lazy one can be a pain if not impossible. Regarding the oil stuff I put it in when I got home and the noise had gone but then again it had got better with the fresh oil too. Car sounds heaps quieter but I still get the low rpm stumble which makes me think we are in the right direction with these lifters. What are your thoughts and any advice.
Looks like it's a trip to VW. My mechanics are not too confident on taking the valve cover off as they think that the bolts that hold it on also hold the cam shafts in place. They are also leaning towards a timing issue too with the noise transmitting from the chain and at the low rpm's the timing is not right causing the knocking and rpm stumble. Anybody's thoughts would be greatly appreciated....
Looks like it's a trip to VW. My mechanics are not too confident on taking the valve cover off as they think that the bolts that hold it on also hold the cam shafts in place. They are also leaning towards a timing issue too with the noise transmitting from the chain and at the low rpm's the timing is not right causing the knocking and rpm stumble. Anybody's thoughts would be greatly appreciated....
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To take cam cover off need to remove the timing chain. The bearing saddle on the intake camshaft is left hand thread btw (righty loosey, lefty tighty...). Check timing aswell, MK6 GTI occasionally (rare) has timing chain tensioner issues and/or timing chain stretch issues, there is a TPI I believe, VW are usually very good with goodwill for this.
Thank you mate, this issue is beginning to get to me. Just to keep you in the loop as you sound like The One who could give me advice and perhaps reassure me, at 1200 rpm engine stumbles and top of engine rattles/ knocks closest to the timing chain and exhaust pops. As soon as the rpm's are raised car smooths out and noises are gone. Back down to 1200 rpm noises return car stumbles. Thanks for your advice.
Thank you mate, this issue is beginning to get to me. Just to keep you in the loop as you sound like The One who could give me advice and perhaps reassure me, at 1200 rpm engine stumbles and top of engine rattles/ knocks closest to the timing chain and exhaust pops. As soon as the rpm's are raised car smooths out and noises are gone. Back down to 1200 rpm noises return car stumbles. Thanks for your advice.
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Have you ever experienced it sounding like a diesel when you start it up? (I know that sounds abit farfetched)
Anyway, I would cease to drive it, or drive it as little as possible.. Book it into your nearest service centre. They will try and diagnose it themselves, it could (hopefully) be something really simple and easy, but it sounds like an issue with the timing chain tensioner. What they need to do is check the timing, ensuring the marks all line up and when they count the number of chain links between both cams (theres a spec set by VW how many links should be between the two markings @ TDC and a MM spec aswell) to ensure the chain hasnt stretched (you can sometimes get the TDC marks to line up, but have excess chain stretch which causing it to be noisy and sometimes make the engine do funny things), this is all due to the old tensioner fitted to 2010 and some later models which was soon rectified. VW will have to assess the damage, sometimes a new chain and tensioner fixes the issue, sometimes if the timing is off could need a new engine, all depends on what they find, but VW will usually goodwill the whole procedure (push your dealer for goodwill!!) Goodluck mate, need any more info just ask.
P.S: Might also be a good idea on checking intake ports for excessive carbon build up, just a thought.
Could just be a coil pack. They are prone to failing. Change them first as they are relatively inexpensive compared to opening the engine. If you still have the issue then look at lifters. The noise could simply be a noisy injector. Never heard of a lifter problem with these engines.
MY11 CW Golf RIntake, Tune, DP, DV+Superpro arms and ALKCustom 4" tipsTWM Short Shifter
Sounds fine when cold starts. Never sounded like s diesel. One thing to note is the noise did get better after an oil change, but did not disappear. When the car is cold and you try and hold the rpm's low the rpm's do jump around more than when it's warm. This results in a little bucking when first driving off when cold but soon goes. I'll keep everyone updated. Goodwill from VW would be nice but I'm a year out of warranty......
Could just be a coil pack. They are prone to failing. Change them first as they are relatively inexpensive compared to opening the engine. If you still have the issue then look at lifters. The noise could simply be a noisy injector. Never heard of a lifter problem with these engines.
Thanks mate. I put the R8 coils in because of this issue but I might change them back to see as I've got 8 spares lying about. Not sure if this would cause the engine rattle and it's defiantly engine speed related. All other rpm's car is smooth with no noise, 1200 rpm's car stumbles and a top engine rattle. Car still pulls hard. I've just noticed though that the car when still will not rev past 3800 rpm's this is new to me or I've never noticed it before..... When driving I can still red line it.
I did try and give as much advice as poss on what was found at the time of test giving it I found the noise to be in conjunction with the roughness. Anyway I did also mention good will as well during the chat and its worth asking worst they can say is no. There is a few tools reqd to set up the chains on these and I haven't as yet geared myself up with such as I haven't seen enough with problems to warrant having them yet, and as many were sorted out in their warranty period. They did have a superceded chain tensioner but a few I know of came to a halt quick smart amd didn't last as long as yours has been going on. Any stretch or misalignment generally throws a cam to crank correlation code but has to be bad enough. I had the chassis ear on it and when it happens its pretty widespread and hard to hear, it could be transferring. It would be an idea to ask VW to see re your vin if your engine has the older tensioner and if yes then pull on them for the campaign, as like I say there is a bit involved in doing the job. As these get older ill no doubt have the timing gear but hasn't been worth getting it to date. see how you go, I don't get on here as much so pm on FB or txt if reqd. And for the record its not coils and its not fuel pump , pressure is spot even during roughness . And also for the record I personally think its a waste of time using R8 coils on MK5 or MK6, I know of plenty VERY quick VWs using std VW coils, im sure Guy still has Std ones in his Mega quick MK6 so stands to reason. In my opinion its under bonnet bling
Cheers
Jmac
Alba European
Service, Diagnostics and repairs. Mobile Diag available on request
Audi/VW/Porsche Factory trained tech 25+ yrs exp
For people who value experience call 0423965341
Thanks mate. I put the R8 coils in because of this issue but I might change them back to see as I've got 8 spares lying about. Not sure if this would cause the engine rattle and it's defiantly engine speed related. All other rpm's car is smooth with no noise, 1200 rpm's car stumbles and a top engine rattle. Car still pulls hard. I've just noticed though that the car when still will not rev past 3800 rpm's this is new to me or I've never noticed it before..... When driving I can still red line it.
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Revving at standstill (in neural or P) you will only be able to rev up to 3800 RPMS.. This is totally normal, it's the ECU being smarter than you and preventing damage to the engine. Don't stress about VW goodwill, 1 year is not long at all, I have seen VW bend over and let you stick it in no lube required some of the 'goodwill' they have done, e.g: customer not servicing TDI passat for over 55,000kms, oil galleries blocked up causing damage to main conrod bearings, goodwill cover 80% parts and labour for new engine, passat in question was a 08 model getting 'goodwill' work done in 2013...
I did try and give as much advice as poss on what was found at the time of test giving it I found the noise to be in conjunction with the roughness. Anyway I did also mention good will as well during the chat and its worth asking worst they can say is no. There is a few tools reqd to set up the chains on these and I haven't as yet geared myself up with such as I haven't seen enough with problems to warrant having them yet, and as many were sorted out in their warranty period. They did have a superceded chain tensioner but a few I know of came to a halt quick smart amd didn't last as long as yours has been going on. Any stretch or misalignment generally throws a cam to crank correlation code but has to be bad enough. I had the chassis ear on it and when it happens its pretty widespread and hard to hear, it could be transferring. It would be an idea to ask VW to see re your vin if your engine has the older tensioner and if yes then pull on them for the campaign, as like I say there is a bit involved in doing the job. As these get older ill no doubt have the timing gear but hasn't been worth getting it to date. see how you go, I don't get on here as much so pm on FB or txt if reqd. And for the record its not coils and its not fuel pump , pressure is spot even during roughness . And also for the record I personally think its a waste of time using R8 coils on MK5 or MK6, I know of plenty VERY quick VWs using std VW coils, im sure Guy still has Std ones in his Mega quick MK6 so stands to reason. In my opinion its under bonnet bling
Cheers
Jmac
I can't thank you enough Jimmy, with out you taking some of your time for a look and listen I would not be any closer to a resolution. I brought up the subject of the lazy lifter as my usual mechanic mentioned this and after the oil change the noise seemed to be more from the side of the engine closet to the timing chain. Rather than across the whole block.I think there could be a number of possibilities. I've got it booked in to VW and I am seeing Gavin for a few more tests to see if he can eliminate a few things. I'll let you know how things go. Thanks again.
Just an update for anybody who's interested. I'm just trying to find as many symptoms as I can to go armed with to VW. Just noticed that it coughs and stumbles at around 1200 rpm with a engine rattle and when rev up it quite tens down and stumble stops. Just noticed that it will not hold 1400 rpm's. When you rev up it stumbles T it point and when you rev lightly further nothing happens until you get to a certain point and then it picked up and revs to the throttle position you are at. It's almost 1400 rpm is a flat spot. The same happens when you let off the throttle a little, rpm's drop slowly gets to 1400 rpm's themselves drops suddenly to 1200 rpm's and the noise starts and car stumbles. This is also noticed when driving, setting off slowly pushing past 1400 rpm nothing happens and then once you've pushed past this point it picked up.
Just an update for anybody who's interested. I'm just trying to find as many symptoms as I can to go armed with to VW. Just noticed that it coughs and stumbles at around 1200 rpm with a engine rattle and when rev up it quite tens down and stumble stops. Just noticed that it will not hold 1400 rpm's. When you rev up it stumbles T it point and when you rev lightly further nothing happens until you get to a certain point and then it picked up and revs to the throttle position you are at. It's almost 1400 rpm is a flat spot. The same happens when you let off the throttle a little, rpm's drop slowly gets to 1400 rpm's themselves drops suddenly to 1200 rpm's and the noise starts and car stumbles. This is also noticed when driving, setting off slowly pushing past 1400 rpm nothing happens and then once you've pushed past this point it picked up.
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Not sure that I'll have much more to offer after what Jimmy has written above. Seeing as he makes living out of it!
Getting the revs to hold at any given point on a fly by wire throttle isn't easy. So I personally wouldn't put too much emphasis on that.
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