Coolant levels

[Umai Naa!!]

The engine oil could've been underfilled at the service, and there may still have been an air bubble in the cooling system since the water pump was replaced.

HEAPS of possibilities, but you're best getting it booked in, and looked at.

If your service history within the dealer network is spot-on, and you've owned it since new, VW may come to the party and help out with the cost of the repairs.

In regards to the coolant, there doesn't seem to be a specific time interval for it to be replaced that I've ever seen. Normally, you test the water/coolant concentration, and go from there. Naturally, if it's basically just pink-coloured water, you'd replace it.

[gldgti]

The engine oil could've been underfilled at the service, and there may still have been an air bubble in the cooling system since the water pump was replaced.

HEAPS of possibilities, but you're best getting it booked in, and looked at.

If your service history within the dealer network is spot-on, and you've owned it since new, VW may come to the party and help out with the cost of the repairs.

In regards to the coolant, there doesn't seem to be a specific time interval for it to be replaced that I've ever seen. Normally, you test the water/coolant concentration, and go from there. Naturally, if it's basically just pink-coloured water, you'd replace it.

My dad did some research into the coolant life and found the spec is the same for mercedes, who say 'filled for life' - however I suppose thats all pretty meaningless when you have the water pump being replaced at 120ish,000 anyway.

[jamesdavid]

Yes, Vw/audi group coolant is lifetime based, there is no set service interval, it is purely done based on repair work. Service are meant to check the anti-freeze point using a refractometer or hydrometer like Umai Naa said.

I would be hassling a dealer if its still in warranty, if you make the complaint noticeable early enough i would scream black and blue to at least get a goodwill claim on it. I would not recommend an aftermarket place as the dealer may not be inclined to help you out if the warranty expires.

The water pumps are replaced as a precautionary measure with the timing belt, i have seen it so many times before, backyard guys doing their own belts and not replacing the pump then over tensioning the belt and it causes the water pump to leak. Then its belt off again where had it have been done first time it wouldn't have happened.

The oil cooler, rear water flange and egr cooler are all very good suggestions. I d be monitoring coolant condition for oil contamination, oil condition for a milky consistency and booking it in straight away.

Let us know what eventuates,

James

[DeanoTDI]

Given the things you have described, I would suspect the oil cooler/warmer (heat exchanger) that is part of the filter housing. Its a little heat exchanger that coolant flows through and so does the oil.....

Also, see thread in diesel section about leaking flange in the EGR circuit causing coolant leakage.

The EGR leakage was another cause, i'm suspecting that's the root of the Coolant loss.

The Oil usage was expected to happen eventually, just was wondering if it was tied in together at all.

[Jmr84]

If your egr cooler is leaking you'll most probably find on cold start and first hard take of you'll blow white smoke. Egr coolers and oil coolers are a common faults.
Oil will normally leak into cooling system making your reservoir black when cooler at fault, not the other way around tho.
But yes it could just be a air pocket as stated before due to 105,000 k service and water pimp bring replaced.
I'd just monitor coolant for a little while and go from there.

[minke]

Coolant Level GTi (MY13)

Hi,

My GTi is 15 months old and in the last 2-3000km the coolant level has dropped maybe 10mm - 12mm.

Can't see any obvious coolant weeping from anywhere, but I couldn't spy the pump which I understand is a weak point and plastic housing (shudder) by my being a late 2012 build has (or should have) the revised pump?

Coolant systems are closed from my understanding, so shouldn't see loss unless a leak is present. Is that true of the VWs?

Thoughts appreciated.

[jboogie]

Hi,

My GTi is 15 months old and in the last 2-3000km the coolant level has dropped maybe 10mm - 12mm.

Can't see any obvious coolant weeping from anywhere, but I couldn't spy the pump which I understand is a weak point and plastic housing (shudder) by my being a late 2012 build has (or should have) the revised pump?

Coolant systems are closed from my understanding, so shouldn't see loss unless a leak is present. Is that true of the VWs?

Thoughts appreciated.

system is closed and under pressure. shouldn't be leaking.

no signs of the fabled white crust of dried g12?

[minke]

system is closed and under pressure. shouldn't be leaking.

no signs of the fabled white crust of dried g12?

Not that I could eye ball in the dark with a torch. Any common places other than hose connections and the pump

[Snail Style]

When are you checking the level? To get an accurate measure on how much coolant the car is using you should be checking with the engine cold, once hot it can be abit inaccurate when checking.

[minke]

When are you checking the level? To get an accurate measure on how much coolant the car is using you should be checking with the engine cold, once hot it can be abit inaccurate when checking.

both - consistently same level.

[gazzmo]

Actually the coolant level should be checked when the engine is hot and as long as the indicated level is between min and max then don't sweat it.

[Snail Style]

To check the level, no it should be cold.

But to determine if it is using/losing coolant, the best way to do that is to mark it first thing one morning, drive it as normal and then check it first thing the following morning.

[sVWatt]

Mine has sat on the minimum mark for 15,000 km ... Doesn't seem to move, but I check it once a fortnight when I top up washer fluids. I check it cold.

[Diesel_vert]

Please read the owners manual carefully.

The correct procedure is to check the coolant level when the engine is at ambient temperature (i.e. cold) with the car level.

When the engine is at operating temperature (i.e. hot), the coolant level may rise above the MAX line as it expands, which is normal.

The coolant level should be adjusted or topped up when the engine is cold, otherwise you risk scalding yourself as the cooling system is pressurised.

A consistent loss of coolant is an indication of a leak in the system.

[minke]

Advice : Coolant level dropping

Hi,

I've a build date 10/2012 GTI with double service history (6 monthly chip fat change).

The coolant level had a significant drop within the first 1000-1500km. Dealer put it down to an air bubble in the system as 10min pressure test revealed no loss.

THey then over filled the coolant well above the max line and since then, the coolant has dropped a total of 5cm. It is still above the max line but in the last 2000-3000km that I've been watching carefully it's down 5mm.

There isn't a coolant smell, and there is no sign that I can see.

The last half year chip fat change I asked them to poke around and nothing was found.

What suggestions are there? I've a couple of 1500km loops coming up and don't want to be stranded.

Cheers
Justin

ps Car has an audible whine when first starting, no rattle ( nothing like lucus_r's) and goes away 5-10 seconds. Been like that since new. No other unexpected sounds emanate from the engine bay.