And now, back on topic... *hint hint*
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Tips for breaking in a brand new engine?
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2008 MkV Volkswagen Golf R32 DSG
2005 MkV Volkswagen Golf 2.0 FSI Auto
Sold: 2015 8V Audi S3 Sedan Manual
Sold: 2010 MkVI Volkswagen Golf GTI DSG
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On this topic of "drive it like you stole it", what are people doing when they get an off the shelf tune applied ?
I know with Subies I had, post dyno tune, I followed directions from the tuner on how to drive the vehicle for a few tanks of fuel.
I imagine this applies even more to off the shelf tunes.8VSS2L/16 E9E9 XG MP SPP1 4ZD 6XK CSC5P with an extra free 10kW
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Originally posted by Rawcpoppa View PostAfter reading through some of this thread I am still confused. Just got a new 1.4 tsi Jetta 118kw and the vehicle manual does not specify how to run in the engine/vehicle.carandimage The place where Off-Topic is On-Topic
I used to think I was anal-retentive until I started getting involved in car forums
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Are Golf MK6 factory run-in?
Hi all,
New to the forum and to the world of VW having just picked up a new MK6 Golf GTI DSG. Loving it so far but I've been a bit wary of pushing the revs too much. 500km on the clock now.
So are GTIs run in at the factory these days? I've read/heard many different answers to this and was wondering if anyone has a categoric answer. I've done about 500km so far and have been a bit hesitant to hit the revs too high just yet.
Cheers,
Otto
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Its a www myth about running in at the factory. They whack the engine on the dyno on the factory line for about 15 seconds total, slam the engine to high revs more or less instantly, if it runs and makes 60%ish of its deigned power/torque, they crate and ship to the car assembly plant. Stood there and watched the painful birth they get! Do not remember cooling being connected, just fuel & electrics necessary to run the engine.
You follow the owners handbook to bed in the components of which, engine, gearbox, brakes and suspension all need to be gradually bedded in. They tell you the engine but thats the limiting factor which all the others listed above need the same treatment. Gentle at first, progressively getting normal through to finally full on.Last edited by RW1; 23-10-2012, 03:48 AM.VW SCIROCCO 1.4TSI - DSG (MY2010) UK, East Cheshire.
Build Complete October Wk43/09, Driving 4th November - Wk44/09. Sorted !
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At the end of the production line @ Wolfsburg, they run the cars on a set of rollers at full throttle in every gear (hitting the rev limiter - brutal) then several brake tests (must be big inertia rollers).
When we asked about the procedure, they told us if they dont make within 2% of the stated power output, the car is returned to the production line & the engine swapped out.
It also give all brake components a good pressure test.
Believe me, go do the production line tour - it's totally amazing from start to finish, and watching them do this test, you will never bother "running in" a car softly ever again!
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Drive it like you stole it. Worked fine for my old WRX, so far seems to not have had any detrimental effects on the Golf (6.5K kms so far).
In fact, the past two weeks it has been really hammering, must have finally worn in and/or the air density and temp is perfect.
Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2---
Manual MY12 RB Golf R | Bluefin Stg2 | Milltek turbo-back
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Originally posted by WhiteJames View PostAnother point to note is that if you require an oil top-up prior to 15,000km first service; it's worthwhile having your local dealer add the oil as I am lead to believe that they have a certain type of oil available for top-ups. Service Manager Nick has tells me not to add any other type of oil myself (not that I need too) within the first 15,000km, but bring in the GTI for a free top-up with the type of oil that is recommended by Volkswagen. I guess its a similar thing with high risk users and vehicles - better have your oil changed by the dealer within the first 15,000km if required or desired, rather than change the oil yourself for peace of mind.
Cheers
WJ
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I still have my Bora which when I asked the question about breaking in was told to drive it like you normally would. So yes before 1,000kms there were a few red lines met and anything but a steady speed maintained. Engine now 200,000kms old and does not use a drop of oil etc.2001 Bora 4Motion from new, upgraded Haldex controller, Bilsteins, Milltek
2014 Golf 90TSi, Comfortline, manual
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Oil
Just to add to this whole oil thing, I've been told by Glenn at Eurotune, who also owns a Golf R and has serviced many a Golf R, that the factory oil is indeed a semi-synthetic "neutral" oil and one should not top up his/her oil before the first change, unless it's done by a qualified workshop who has the correct oil. He also notes that you should get as close as you can to 15,000km in the first year to allow this run-in oil to do its job before the engine oil goes fully synthetic.Click or tap --> MY13 CW Golf R | Manual | ACC (deleted) | 19" Black Talladegas (sold) | Satnav-Dynaudio
APR Stage 2+ w/RFD | Autotech HPFP | IE CAI + BSH Heat Shield | NPC Clutch + SMF | HPX 3" TBE | CTS FMIC | VWR Short Shifter | Comp Haldex | Uprated Engine Mounts | MCA Red Suspension | HP Superpro LCA/ALK/Ball Joints | Superpro Rear Bushes | AP Racing BBK | P3 Gauge | 16% tint
Track wheels: 18x8 ET45 Enkei Racing PF01 | Tyres: 245/40R18 Yokohama Advan A050 Soft | Street: 245/35R19 Michelin Pilot Sport 4 S
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