Dynamic / Adaptive chassis control (DCC / ACC)

[Maverick]

Modern tints, installed properly, don't tint. Not even after 10 years of use. They don't offer lifetime warranties on them without having confidence in the product. Also - the thing about that VW factory tint not having UV blockage... if it doesnt have that, then how good would the rest of its solar properties be? Like, the TSER (Total Solar Energy Rejection)? Without a high TSER rating you'll use more fuel during the summer days by requiring more Aircon to keep the car cool.

They don't tint coreying? Damn!

But yes modern tints are great, unless you get some cheap film and it's installed by someone with no experience it should outlast the car. I've seen some shockers around recently on fairly new cars like the magna with the whole rear window with massive bubbles to the point I couldn't see through it during the day! I'd guess they tried to do it using a cheap DIY kit and now are too lazy to pull it off.

[WhiteJames]

This is the official NSW line on window tinting directly from the NSW RTA website:

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi03_rev3.pdf

These regs tend to follow ADR's as a general rule, but may vary from state to state.

Interesting to see that on page 2 of 4 it states that most windscreen manufacturers state that 98% of harmful UV rays are dealt with. The film tint version deals with guys that suffer medical conditions ... perhaps an Albino or those suffering dermatitis or similar.

Also an interesting section on the sanwich type windscreen that the Mark 6 has with some form of sound deading incorporated into the front windscreen.

For those considering the Golf 'R' with 19" Talledaga wheels, on other continents, including neighbour NZ, the factory tint is part of the 19" wheel option. Some may not have any choice in this regard.

Fuel consumption:

From Sydney to Gold Coast, using two different routes (New England up/Pacific Hwy down), my MKV GTI used 7.0 litres/100km door to door inlcuding city driving, which is not far from stated ADR fuel consumption claim. From Sydney to Canberra it averages 7.2 litres/100km door to door. I reckon the Mark 6 GTI should cut this by up to half a litre on both journeys (esp Sydney to Qld) .... exciting stuff.

Cheers.
WJ

[Maverick]

This is the official NSW line on window tinting directly from the NSW RTA website:

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/registration/downloads/vsi/vsi03_rev3.pdf

These regs tend to follow ADR's as a general rule, but may vary from state to state.

Interesting to see that on page 2 of 4 it states that most windscreen manufacturers state that 98% of harmful UV rays are dealt with. The film tint version deals with guys that suffer medical conditions ... perhaps an Albino or those suffering dermatitis or similar.

There's many types of UV however and I wouldn't put any faith in claims by windscreen manufacturers as they are talking about UV in general and a lot of your sun exposure also comes from the side windows (especially the arms).

Ordinary glass will block some UV-A and nearly all UV-B.

UV-A (long wave): Most likely to causes cancer and aging of the skin.
UV-B (medium wave): Most sunburn and some cancer.
UV-C (short wave): The ozone layer takes care of this.

[Corey_R]

They don't tint coreying? Damn!

lol - sorry - it's been a BIG week! But yeah, I mean they don't peel. Thank you for being intelligent enough to figure that out

[G-rig]

For those considering the Golf 'R' with 19" Talledaga wheels, on other continents, including neighbour NZ, the factory tint is part of the 19" wheel option. Some may not have any choice in this regard.

I don't really like not getting a choice about the privacy glass.. It has a green tinge which i don't really like, but to match the shade the front two windows would probably be darker than legal.

As people have said in other threads (that work in insurance) you won't get your insurance claims denied just because of tints.

Mav how does privacy glass go in terms of head rejection, UV-A & UV-B?

[Pauly]

There's many types of UV however and I wouldn't put any faith in claims by windscreen manufacturers as they are talking about UV in general and a lot of your sun exposure also comes from the side windows (especially the arms).

Ordinary glass will block some UV-A and nearly all UV-B.

UV-A (long wave): Most likely to causes cancer and aging of the skin.
UV-B (medium wave): Most sunburn and some cancer.
UV-C (short wave): The ozone layer takes care of this.

But in Australia at least, we don't really have much of an Ozone Layer left. Are there some tints that do UV-C aswell?

[hoi polloi]

The ACC could be handy for me... Not for any handling benefits but because the roads around Sydney's inner-west must be the worst in the country - "comfort" mode would be used a lot...

Regards,
- Anthony.

[Corey_R]

Mav how does privacy glass go in terms of head rejection, UV-A & UV-B?

But in Australia at least, we don't really have much of an Ozone Layer left. Are there some tints that do UV-C aswell?

I hope that Maverick has some actual specs for the VW factory tint, because I've never been able to find any. I believe that it only shields from 'most' UV-B. As for heat rejection - people on these forums who have cars with it says that it's not fantastic - hence why some forum members have then had a 'clear tint' installed over the privacy tint. But as I said before, clear tint is made using gold foil and is the MOST expensive tint.

Good quality aftermarket tints will shield from over 99% of UV-A, UV-B and UV-C, whilst offering up to 53% of 'Total Solar Energy Rejection' on a 35% tint on the best performing lines. Mind you, even from the same tint company, the lower performing tints can bloack as low as 29% of TSER on a 35% tint!!! (still with >99% UV rejection though). So yeah, it is really worth doing your research as there is a big variance in performance between 35% tints.

[WhiteJames]

One major disadvantage of the factory tint is in the event of an accident for steal from motor vehicle with smashed glass. You'd be ordering a tinted window, not clear, which may add some delay & cost in repairing your ride. In addition, the aftermarket film acts as a lamination in the event of a motor vehicle collision.

ACC and 18" Detroit Wheels:

My test drives were all performed on 17" Denver with std GTI suspension. The 17" Denver weighs @ 23 pounds. This wheel reduces the unsprung weight of the vehicle (i.e. weight under, not over the springs). An alternative view would be to suggest that reducing the unsprung weight of the GTI, inadvertently adds to the spring rate. In other words, with lighter wheels, the suspension is asked to do less in terms of controlling the lighter wheel when bumps & undulations are struck on the roadways.

The Detroit 18" wheel weghs @ 28 pounds. The general rule of unsprung weight reduction is that it has the effect of reducing sprung weight by x 4. Some experts say in certain cases, it can be as much as x 6 in sprung weight reduction. Over rougher B-grade roadways and when striking bumps/undulations, you loose suspension control, firmness and ultimately agility with the 18" Detroits. The damper is fighting the extra 5 pounds in unsprung weight, which may be like 20-30 pounds per corner in sprung weight. This will induce faster wear on the dampers as they become hotter when asked to work harder. Not to mention that the tyre contact patch could be compromised with less effective compression and rebound of the damper struggling against the heavier Detroit wheel.

The heavier 18" Detroits, your ride will be more brittle, this brittleness never goes away as I found out when I turned my KW V3 coilovers to full soft settings. ACC may reduce some of the harsher ride characteristics of the larger 18" wheel & flatter tyre combination when on 'soft'. Alternatively, you have the ability to put ACC on 'Sport', compensating for the added unsprung wheel weight of the 18" Detroits.

Other advantage of ACC in the longer term is that as the damper wears down, and losses its resistence & effectiveness, you could run ACC in sport all the time to create that new car feeling of firmness & agility. In any event, with heavier 18" Detroit wheels, the dampers may wear at a faster rate than having a lighter wheel & tyre combination.

Cheers.
WJ

[G-rig]

I hope that Maverick has some actual specs for the VW factory tint, because I've never been able to find any. I believe that it only shields from 'most' UV-B. As for heat rejection - people on these forums who have cars with it says that it's not fantastic - hence why some forum members have then had a 'clear tint' installed over the privacy tint. But as I said before, clear tint is made using gold foil and is the MOST expensive tint.

Good quality aftermarket tints will shield from over 99% of UV-A, UV-B and UV-C, whilst offering up to 53% of 'Total Solar Energy Rejection' on a 35% tint on the best performing lines. Mind you, even from the same tint company, the lower performing tints can bloack as low as 29% of TSER on a 35% tint!!! (still with >99% UV rejection though). So yeah, it is really worth doing your research as there is a big variance in performance between 35% tints.

That's what i was thinking. What's the point of getting privacy glass if it doesn't do as good a job as after market tint, and also defeats the purpose if you have to tint over it in clear as well. I wouldn't get 19" if that's the case, but 18" would be good enough but not that sold on the Telladega's anyway.

I've currently got Sungard Eclipse on my R32 and as well as looking stunning with it's slightly reflective properties it rejects 62.6% of solar energy.

A lot of people assume you need very dark to get the interior cool but it's all about rejecting the heat.

[G-rig]

Interesting read WJ.

Would you say if you went from OEM 17" to lightweight 18" there would be almost no compromises to the factory suspension and would you need ACC?

Other advantage of ACC in the longer term is that as the damper wears down, and losses its resistence & effectiveness, you could run ACC in sport all the time to create that new car feeling of firmness & agility.

Is that how it would work or would you need to replace the whole damper anyway? Was also wondering the replacement cost down the track of VW ACC suspension and which parts you'd be locked into using and may not allow you to use after market bits later? Just a though as OEM replacement parts are usually quite hefty.

It's easy to justify each option but could end up ticking every box that way.

[Corey_R]

I've currently got Sungard Eclipse on my R32 and as well as looking stunning with it's slightly reflective properties it rejects 62.6% of solar energy.

A lot of people assume you need very dark to get the interior cool but it's all about rejecting the heat.

Exactly. I didn't include any reflective tints in my '53%' comments above because reflective tints are also illegal. HOWEVER, all tints are reflective to a certain %, and as far as I can see the ADR doesn't give a valid maximum %, therefore you can probably get away with lightly reflective tint, and as you've noted, you'll get even more solar energy reduction, and therefore a cooler interior and lower fuel bills

[G-rig]

Yeah, when i said reflective it's not like full mirror tint that looks cheap and tacky (and which would attract the wrong attention) however it's fairly subtle but in the right light looks amazing, esp when there are heaps of storm clouds rolling in and it hazes up quite reflective. Still varies from different angles but would get it again.

Wont get lower fuel bills with an R32 though

[WhiteJames]

All valid points.

I concede that the aftermarket tints may have a greater range of heat reducing properties, and most likely offer an overall improvement in every aspect of heat reduction. Probably look better to if its like the Street Wise film tint I had on my MKV GTI (front windows of new MK6 - GTI will also have Street Wise Tint).

Whether the benefits of aftermarket tint are substantial or marginal is a bit obscure with no firm comparitive data. Stick on film can be scratched or damaged. It'd be harder for this to occur on the tinted glass.

Given the opportunit to build my own MK6 GTI, similar to building a house. If I was going tint on my home, I'd want the best quality tint in the glass from the factory first & foremost. If this is insufficient for the hot Aus climate in terms of heat reduction, then a film could be applied.

Each to their own on tint. If you work in a hot climate and have your ride outside all day, everyday, then you'd want the best protection. This is not the case with my GTI, which will be garaged most of the time.

Driving the Mark 6 GTI test vehicle for half a day around Sydney, I did notice that I had to have the climate control air-con turned down 2-3 degrees to compensate for no aftermarket tint or privacy glass. Doubt it would affect fuel consumption that much. Having the air-con unit OFF doesn't make much of a difference, I found, in terms of economy.

ACC and Lightweight Wheels:

Forged alloy wheels don't come cheap ... starting price @ $750. Cheaper cast lightweight (not forged) like OZ Racing are available, but probably not up to the job on Aus terra firma. The factory VW Racing wheels ain't cheap either, and don't look bling enough (see BBS-CH-R wheels and you'll know what I mean).

The ACC unit on the Mark 6 GTI would most likely be built by Sachs-Boge suspension makers. Even the Aus Falcon has Sachs-Boge dampers (mono-tube gas).

Aftermarket kits for the Golf may be available for Sachs with ACC in coilover version down the track. Bilstein offer this aftermarket kit. Similar to the Porsche PASM and Nissan GTR factory dampers, which are also made by Bilstein.

For standard coilovers, I can't see any reason why you couldn't eliminate any fault code with VAGCOM and install a set of standard coilovers (Sachs/Tein Euro/HPA KW SHS for comfort/sports).

Cheers.
WJ

[Corey_R]

Whether the benefits of aftermarket tint are substantial or marginal is a bit obscure with no firm comparitive data. Stick on film can be scratched or damaged. It'd be harder for this to occur on the tinted glass.

Two good points there. It's definitely harder to scratch the tint in laminated glass.

Given the opportunit to build my own MK6 GTI, similar to building a house. If I was going tint on my home, I'd want the best quality tint in the glass from the factory first & foremost. If this is insufficient for the hot Aus climate in terms of heat reduction, then a film could be applied.

I've already had both in homes. 'Comfortone Glass' which has a 'bronze' tint laminate inside the glass and is twice the thickness of the usual glass panes used in homes. Awesome, very low internal and external reflectivity which means it's easy to see in and out of, even at night. Also blocked a decent amount of heat.
However, in my apartment it is north facing and on the top floor - so it gets the sun ALL DAY. The comfortone glass just wouldn't be up to the job, so I've gone for a Solargard Solar Bronze 35. It actually rejects 70% of Total Solar Energy - which is over twice that of the Comfortone Glass. The emissivity is also quite good (meaning it retains heat well in winter). But it has the disadvantage of being quite reflective from the outside during the day, and from the inside at night.

The other alternative would have been to get the Comfortone Glass and THEN put the Solargard LX70 'clear tint'. But yeah - just like with the VW privacy glass, this option ends up being about 3 to 4 times the cost of just using a high quality regular tint. LX70 is literally using gold foil. It's SOOOO expensive.

So yeah - until the glass laminate tint gets up to the performance of aftermarket tint film, I'll stick with the film in places which need maximum heat regulation