Mechanic advice - is this right?

[Umai Naa!!]

Generally speaking, if the compressor is getting power, and the earth circuit is good, but it's not working, it's stuffed.

[jets]

I was told once that if there isn't enough gas the compressor won't run.

[Umai Naa!!]

Naturally, that's step one.

There's the possibilty that it's leaked down over the 48 hours to a point where it won't run.

Now, if it had the dye in it, and the workshop had a leak detection kit, they'd spot a leak pretty quickly.

[DWBN]

The gas was checked, was found to be good - he even withdrew the new gas to confirm the weight and replaced it again. Is it possible to flush the condensor and just replace the compressor?

[grtuned]

These Mk 5 ac systems were prone to failure but most were done during the cars wty period. Compressors were the fault.
After all this back and forth questioning my recommendation is take it to someone who knows what there doing to give you one straight answer and get it rectified. No point asking for the community for diagnosis to help this guy out!!
I highly advise you flush the entire ac system before fitting a new compressor or the new one will fail in a short time if there is swarf in the system.

[Jmac]

Control valves are more faulty on these compressors than the comps themselves albeit they do fail, you need to also factor in a new dryer cartridge , not a conventional type it fits into the condenser, and good luck flushing the condenser, it s parallel type therefore almost impossible to do so , so if its that bad you need a Condenser too. Yep all adds up. And to be honest get one little link wrong on this chain and you will be doing it again in 6mnths, yep im mr positive. Seen it too often face on
Cheers
Jmac

[grtuned]

Yep agree with jmac. When a compressor failed internally/catastrophic failure everything was removed/stripped then the entire system was then flushed (evaporator and lines) using a liquid flushing agent until it was completely cleaned and free from debris then everything was replaced.
If this was not done failure would reoccur shortly after. Unfortunately if this has happened to anyone this is the correct procedure to repair.


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[DWBN]

Thanks all, I'm happy to source a new condensor if required, but Id like to know how to check if their is swarf in the system? Would removing the TX valve and inspecting it for swarf provide a good indication? Obviously I only want to replace what's needed.

cheers