Lug wrench - Aftermarket wheels

[jaredtomas]

Hi guys

First of all, excuse my naivity! I've just gone to check the lug bolts on my aftermarket wheels and noticed that the VW supplied lug wrench (or wheel brace, whatever you want to call it!) won't fit in the holes of the wheels.

What do I need to to get so I'm able to remove my wheels? Haha.

Thanks!

[Guest001]

Hi guys

First of all, excuse my naivity! I've just gone to check the lug bolts on my aftermarket wheels and noticed that the VW supplied lug wrench (or wheel brace, whatever you want to call it!) won't fit in the holes of the wheels.

What do I need to to get so I'm able to remove my wheels? Haha.

Thanks!

Try a thinwall socket or just an ordinary one Someone put them on so must be something to take them off LOL

[QBDentFree]

A few companies make thin sockets for exactly this reason. I think I saw some in Autobarn today, but Bursons will definately have some. They are usually different colours for different sizes

[greg32]

You may find the nuts/bolts are a different size to the original. I use a cross brace on mine fitted with studs and nuts with no problems.

[kaanage]

Whoever sold you the wheels should also have supplied an adapter or replacement brace. Can you ask them?

[jaredtomas]

They are the original bolts.

Thanks for the help guys!

[greg32]

RE: Lug wrench - Aftermarket wheels

I guess you will need to get a thin wall brace to use. Take your car to your local friendly auto shop and see if they will help with a suitable item. My other concern is the wheels a tapered seat like most after market wheels. If so, the original bolts are not right and can cause the wheels to crack from the holes.

They are the original bolts.

Thanks for the help guys!

[kaanage]

Yes. And if the wheels do have v-taper (cone) seats, it is even more likely is that the bolt seats will compress (the bolts are steel and the wheels are alloy) and the bolts will loosen.

[Idle]

Yes. And if the wheels do have v-taper (cone) seats, it is even more likely is that the bolt seats will compress (the bolts are steel and the wheels are alloy) and the bolts will loosen.

Actually, with my previous car (a 3lt Cressida — often wish I still had it...) I found just the opposite — went to rotate the wheels at 10,000K and found I couldn't shift the (tapered) nuts.

Found corrosion in the seats (dissimilar metals and the alloy not correctly treated, I suppose) after getting them off by extending the handle of my T-bar (it's still bent...)

A cleanup and application of Kop-r-Kote took care of it, had no more trouble with the same nuts for the next twenty years.

I've never seen a properly tightened wheel nut work loose, but not everyone does it right.

[kaanage]

So the Cressida's wheels had ball seats and you just reused the v-taper bolts with anti-seize?
I guess the wheel seats were pretty trashed by the corrosion (which is very rare) and the improper, high pressure contact points

[Idle]

So the Cressida's wheels had ball seats and you just reused the v-taper bolts with anti-seize?
I guess the wheel seats were pretty trashed by the corrosion (which is very rare) and the improper, high pressure contact points

No, strangely enough, once the corrosion was cleaned off and the anti-seize applied, they looked like new and, as I said, there was no further trouble in the ensuing twenty-odd years.

To be honest, I don't remember what the fitting was any more — whatever the factory used (and they did match) — it's a long time ago and, like most nonagenarians, my memory ain't what it were, but I clearly recall the hassle I had getting them loose (plus, of course, I still have the bent tommy bar to remind me.)