Spotted, plus running the car in

[rabbitoh]

Got back home after watching Pavlik vs Taylor II, wander out onto the balcony and what do I see - a black 3 door R32 08 spec. First time for my girlfriend seeing the car in the flesh, with the latest wheels. She loved it Also saw a Ferrari 456 and a Bentley Conti GT out the front. The flash cars were out tonight.

So, I know it has been done to death, but what's the VW watercooled view on running a car in? With my Alfa, I stayed below 4 grand for 1000 km. Seemed a bit ridiculous when I considered that it probably had the crap revved out of it, firstly out of the factory, then on it's way here and then finally at the stealer. I guess I may be looking for an excuse to flog her from the get go.....

[h100vw]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

When I have the problem of running in brand new car, this is the method I'll be using.

Gavin

[rabbitoh]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

When I have the problem of running in brand new car, this is the method I'll be using.

Gavin

Cheers Gavin. I read that article last year, which alluded to the above (having the crap revved out of it on and off the transporter etc). Seems like the way to go

[h100vw]

I reckon it's the way forward too. I had a GSXR750 in the 90s which I bought secondhand. A mate bought one new and road the wheels of it, from leaving the shop.

Mine just never went like his, even after I spent loads on a pipe, filter and dynojet kit. std power was 116hp at the crank, I got mine to more than that at the wheel.

Anything you care to mention, roll ons in top gear, 1/4 miles he was always ahead.

Just get in and drive it, a few good long trips and some long hills.

Gavin

[Greg Roles]

I know I'm new here, but this info is GOLD.

Nothing new really, any old hot rodder knows theres a lot in this. The biggest problem is the better oils today have friction modifiers, and especially the semi and full synthetic oils are simply "too slippery" to effectively run in a car optimally.

This was very evident a few years back with both Holden and Ford particularily, with the FPV's initially being delivered new with synthetic oil in them. A lot of oil use and waranty motors later, they switched to a pure mineral oil and the problems ceased. Thing is there was conflicting info when I bought my car, so I decided to play it safe.

With my FPV, I drove it straight home, dropped the oil ( which was green and looked synthetic to me! ) and filter at 27kms ( FULL of metal particles ) and ran Penrite run in oil for 500kms. I've run Penrite HPR mineral since, and it's up 30hp at the wheels on what they typically should be, and my economy and real world performance has been suprising. I'd highly recommend running any car in on pure mineral oil, specific run in oil like penrite even better.

It's not about revving the car, you need to avoid that for the rotating parts and transmission etc, but about high combustion pressures to really force the rings against the cylinder walls. Best way to do this is find a hilly drive and do lots of near full bore throttle at low revs, so the engine is trying to work, but you keep upchanging early and really labouring the engine, so it never gets too far up in the revs. In my outgoing FPV I did lots of accelerating in second and third from 10kmph at the base of hills, so the car laboured all the way up. I never let the revs get much over 1/2-3/4 before changing up. Uses a lot of petrol! I'm sure this would be possible around town, out of peak hour anyway!

In short it's all about not running the car at constant, highway revs, especially for the first few hundred kms. But only if you want optimal ring seal, which gives optimum power and minimum fuel use! I'm sure the car will be OK otherwise, but who wants "ok"??

*update* definately a different story with diesels, and it appears they come with a specific run in oil and switch to full synthetic at 15000kms. ( or are supposed to )

Penrite run in oil is high ash, and would thus clog the particle filter, and isn't suitable for the diesel valvetrain anyhow. Not sure if it is suitable for Turbo's, best talk to them direct like I did.

[gpk_gti]

its funny,,,you always see the R32 in hot company and even cruising in my cousins blue R ,ppl in much hotter cars crank their necks to have a look!!!

when I bought my brand spanker new VR6 in 97,the sales rep told me the same thing,drive it like you stole it ! oils were always changed every 5k(not sure about what cogdoc said but sounds logical) but all I know is my VR was alot more powerful than other vr's around and it never missed a beat....

[gregozedobe]

So, I know it has been done to death, but what's the VW watercooled view on running a car in?

The "Search" function is your friend . Have a look in the diesels section, there has been some recent posts there on running in engines.

[rabbitoh]

Cheers for the feedback. Thinking very seriously about taking the car up the road to get the oil changed on receipt but jeez, will be hard to hand the keys over.

[Greg Roles]

In a normal engine, such as the R32, messing with the run in oil is possible.

With the turbo's, and particularily the diesels, it's a different story. Seems they are delivered with a specific run in oil anyhow, so it's probably the same across the range.
Despite being keen to follow the above, thanks to gregoz pointing it out, I won't be messing with anything other than what VW recommend for the oiler.

[rabbitoh]

In a normal engine, such as the R32, messing with the run in oil is possible.

With the turbo's, and particularily the diesels, it's a different story. Seems they are delivered with a specific run in oil anyhow, so it's probably the same across the range.
Despite being keen to follow the above, thanks to gregoz pointing it out, I won't be messing with anything other than what VW recommend for the oiler.

Hmmm, nothing is ever straight forward. Maybe I will just follow the advice to load the engine up and leave the oil for a few hundred kms.

Is your car close to being delivered? What model oiler are you getting?

[Mr R32]

I know I'm new here, but this info is GOLD.

Nothing new really, any old hot rodder knows theres a lot in this. The biggest problem is the better oils today have friction modifiers, and especially the semi and full synthetic oils are simply "too slippery" to effectively run in a car optimally.

This was very evident a few years back with both Holden and Ford particularily, with the FPV's initially being delivered new with synthetic oil in them. A lot of oil use and waranty motors later, they switched to a pure mineral oil and the problems ceased. Thing is there was conflicting info when I bought my car, so I decided to play it safe.

With my FPV, I drove it straight home, dropped the oil ( which was green and looked synthetic to me! ) and filter at 27kms ( FULL of metal particles ) and ran Penrite run in oil for 500kms. I've run Penrite HPR mineral since, and it's up 30hp at the wheels on what they typically should be, and my economy and real world performance has been suprising. I'd highly recommend running any car in on pure mineral oil, specific run in oil like penrite even better.

It's not about revving the car, you need to avoid that for the rotating parts and transmission etc, but about high combustion pressures to really force the rings against the cylinder walls. Best way to do this is find a hilly drive and do lots of near full bore throttle at low revs, so the engine is trying to work, but you keep upchanging early and really labouring the engine, so it never gets too far up in the revs. In my outgoing FPV I did lots of accelerating in second and third from 10kmph at the base of hills, so the car laboured all the way up. I never let the revs get much over 1/2-3/4 before changing up. Uses a lot of petrol! I'm sure this would be possible around town, out of peak hour anyway!

In short it's all about not running the car at constant, highway revs, especially for the first few hundred kms. But only if you want optimal ring seal, which gives optimum power and minimum fuel use! I'm sure the car will be OK otherwise, but who wants "ok"??

*update* definately a different story with diesels, and it appears they come with a specific run in oil and switch to full synthetic at 15000kms. ( or are supposed to )

Penrite run in oil is high ash, and would thus clog the particle filter, and isn't suitable for the diesel valvetrain anyhow. Not sure if it is suitable for Turbo's, best talk to them direct like I did.

This is consistent with what is in the motortuneusa site, but is changing the oil recommended given that the engines are pre-run in at the factory? If so, any harm in near redline changes when "running in" ?

[Mischa]

This is consistent with what is in the motortuneusa site, but is changing the oil recommended given that the engines are pre-run in at the factory? If so, any harm in near redline changes when "running in" ?

who told you they are "pre run in"? the dealer doesnt care if your car is run in properly or not, they'll tell you anything to make you feel good: "oh no vw did all the running in for you you dont have to worry about a thing" is what i heard a few times over but id bet thats a whole lot of BS.

[Mr R32]

I'm inclined to agree, but why such a long service interval after delivery? 7,500km suggests pre-run in, otherwise, shouldn't there be a service after 1,000km

[Mischa]

I'm inclined to agree, but why such a long service interval after delivery? 7,500km suggests pre-run in, otherwise, shouldn't there be a service after 1,000km

its not as simple as that... oils and lubricants have come a long way and the new engines are super sensitive to the oil used. also remember that its a selling point for the car having such long service intervals (15000 on my tdi ). i'm running short of knowledge very quickly on this topic but long service interval doesnt necessarily equal factory run-in. nor does it mean that the car wouldnt benefit from an interim oil change. anyway a 7500km service interval doesnt seem all that long to me? they dont actually change the oil on the 1000km services all the jap-mobiles get do they?

[Mr R32]

I guess that's the concern. Oils have come along way so should you mess with the oil during the first 7,500 or simply follow the advice along the lines of the motortuneusa site rather than the dealer/manual? As for the japmobiles, I had a VTIR Civic and always dropped the oil every 5,000 (narrow oil galleries in the block) although I never had it from new. My question then is even if you follow the advice in the site, should you mess with the oil and if so, after what km?