Originally posted by Guy_H
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Originally posted by gregozedobe View PostWhen you understand how it actually works you will probably lose interest in this idea rather rapidly.
"Electronic diff lock" is the marketing name used by VW and is more than a bit misleading. It works by applying the brake on the spinning wheel (ie the one with less traction), which forces the bulk of the engines torque to go through the other wheel (which presumably has better traction because it isn't spinning). Assuming you want to use it for quicker acceleration then applying brakes is the last thing you would want to do
Not a bad reply for "Someone with limited mechanical knowledge"?
with esp on i get massive axle tramp in the wet but with it off the car has more tendancy to just spin the wheels. both those scenarios get me nowhere really quickly
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I think the "electronic diff lock" is the ESP system.
It can work quite well, even in the wet, but you need to allow for it - slip the clutch and control the throttle in the same way you would if you are launching without ESP, and it can help fine tune things for you. Just don't go overboard - too much throttle and the electronic nanny goes overboard too and really slows things down.
Practice your launches with the ESP off, get the best launch that you can, then turn ESP on and use the same launch technique and see how it goes.
Is anyone aware of any factory fit LSDs available for the manual box, which don't void your warranty, and has anyone had it done on a GTI?
It's the mod I really think will make the biggest difference. I don't see much point having another 40kw until I can can get it to the ground properly.07 Golf GTI 3 door, Tornado red, 6 speed Manual
Red may be the devils colour, but this car is pure heaven
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Originally posted by gregozedobe View PostWhen you understand how it actually works you will probably lose interest in this idea rather rapidly.
"Electronic diff lock" is the marketing name used by VW and is more than a bit misleading. It works by applying the brake on the spinning wheel (ie the one with less traction), which forces the bulk of the engines torque to go through the other wheel (which presumably has better traction because it isn't spinning). Assuming you want to use it for quicker acceleration then applying brakes is the last thing you would want to do
Not a bad reply for "Someone with limited mechanical knowledge"?
I disagree with you on that one.
The driving on slippery roads especially when snows is much better when you have el. diff lock. Better than any other front wheel drive car with limited slip diff.Performance Tunes from $850Wrecking RS OCTAVIA 2 Link
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Originally posted by MRL T5 View PostI disagree with you on that one.
The driving on slippery roads especially when snows is much better when you have el. diff lock. Better than any other front wheel drive car with limited slip diff.
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Originally posted by GermanwithaVdub View Postis the electronic diff lock switched off when you turn off esp?
Originally posted by datracer99 View PostI think the "electronic diff lock" is the ESP system.
It can work quite well, even in the wet, but you need to allow for it - slip the clutch and control the throttle in the same way you would if you are launching without ESP, and it can help fine tune things for you. Just don't go overboard - too much throttle and the electronic nanny goes overboard too and really slows things down.
Practice your launches with the ESP off, get the best launch that you can, then turn ESP on and use the same launch technique and see how it goes.
Originally posted by MRL T5 View PostI disagree with you on that one.
The driving on slippery roads especially when snows is much better when you have el. diff lock. Better than any other front wheel drive car with limited slip diff.Last edited by SoVeReIgN; 17-12-2007, 01:38 PM.
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Originally posted by MRL T5 View PostI disagree with you on that one.
The driving on slippery roads especially when snows is much better when you have el. diff lock. Better than any other front wheel drive car with limited slip diff.
This is a quite different situation to traction problems in very slippery conditions where even a standard 1.6l motor can produce too much power (eg snow, mud, wet grass etc).
FWD cars will always have difficulty putting large amounts of power through the front wheels only when there are traction limitations, which is why a 4WD is usually way better in slippery conditions (eg R32, Audi Quattro, Subaru).
Electronic aids can help, and even disguise the problems in some situations, but the basic laws of physics still apply (and they apply to 4WDs too, which can go around corners and accelarate better in the rain, but stopping ability is much the same as a good FWD). The best advice I can give is to always drive to the conditions, and leave a bit in reserve in case something unexpected happens.2017 MY18 Golf R 7.5 Wolfsburg wagon (boring white) delivered 21 Sep 2017, 2008 Octavia vRS wagon 2.0 TFSI 6M (bright yellow), 2006 T5 Transporter van 2.5 TDI 6M (gone but not forgotten).
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Originally posted by TDI Dude View PostWouldn't the same criteria apply to APR?? Or all aftermarket modifications performed on engine management systems?
P.S. APR do not sell diesel tuning in Australia - Its Oettinger (APR's Sister company) - The engine improvement specs, dynograph, and the written warranty document are listed here:
www.oettinger.com.au - or you can email or call us & we will explain the differences for you
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Originally posted by Guy_H View PostNot sure which part you are referring to - but PM me if you like as the thread has headed off the EDL sort of path.
P.S. APR do not sell diesel tuning in Australia - Its Oettinger (APR's Sister company) - The engine improvement specs, dynograph, and the written warranty document are listed here:
www.oettinger.com.au - or you can email or call us & we will explain the differences for youGOLF GT SPORT TDI SUNROOF, XENONS
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