Battery standby current

[Idle]

done, saw car in sleep mode at least twice - under 40-50mA, with open bonnet and driver door. It doesn't happen however when all doors locked, bonnet opened and central locking is on. I can't shut the bonnet as current clamp is getting jammed and it slightly opens and reading all over the place. I guess central locking module needs some medicine Where is located, pls?

If you want to test with the bonnet open, try wedging the sensor closed (on my Mk6, it's pushed down by the loop of the catch when the bonnet shuts) — the system shouldn't know the difference.

[Guest]

Try this put your volt meter across the fuse contacts when fuse is still in and see which one is drawing current you will see one will be excessive voltage
You dont have to close the bonnet or doors just the latches will do
But you have to lock the car or it wont go to sleep

[HiTorque]

Try this put your volt meter across the fuse contacts when fuse is still in and see which one is drawing current you will see one will be excessive voltage
You dont have to close the bonnet or doors just the latches will do
But you have to lock the car or it wont go to sleep

I had to cut a wire to bonnet switch as it's NC - opens when bonnet is shut. So now it's "always shut". I did fuse tests with multimeter, so far F16 (steering-J257), F24 (on-board diag J533) and two 40A F47,48 (J519) all together consume more than 0.5A after 2 hours in locked state. I have only Jetta fuse map from November 2004 - I have Golf made early 2005. Also around 100 mA goes through SA6 80A fuse to internal fuse box (SC fuses). The car wasn't hit by lightning strike so I can't figure out why at least four fuses are responsible for it . So now the battery gets disconnected at night and charged (just as a precaution) , it's like having an electric car... I guess have to test again without central locking on. The battery gets charged when I am driving and It's a new one so I hope it will last long in such mode!

[HiTorque]

OK, just tested twice leaving driver door opened - went to sleeping mode under 50mA in less than 20min. Now the question - what is it? Is locking mechanism jamming something or shorting wires in the door? Is it easy to get to locking area inside?

[Transporter]

OK, just tested twice leaving driver door opened - went to sleeping mode under 50mA in less than 20min. Now the question - what is it? Is locking mechanism jamming something or shorting wires in the door? Is it easy to get to locking area inside?

Test the door lock actuators, remove the door trim if you can't get into the wires. That 50mA current sound right and it should be close to that when you fully lock the car. I measured around 15mA within 20minutes after locking.

[HiTorque]

Test the door lock actuators, remove the door trim if you can't get into the wires. That 50mA current sound right and it should be close to that when you fully lock the car. I measured around 15mA within 20minutes after locking.

Ok, I pull the driver door trim out - the most over-engineered stuff I have ever seen... Now, how can I get to the actuator? It's somewhere between inner and outer door skins, it will be fun to put it back...

[Maverick]

Ok, I pull the driver door trim out - the most over-engineered stuff I have ever seen... Now, how can I get to the actuator? It's somewhere between inner and outer door skins, it will be fun to put it back...

You can't test it easily, this is why you need vagcom because you can do it all via the computer.

The lock mechanism and actuator is all built in together. You need to remove the door handle/lock before you remove it as well.

[Transporter]

Ok, I pull the driver door trim out - the most over-engineered stuff I have ever seen... Now, how can I get to the actuator? It's somewhere between inner and outer door skins, it will be fun to put it back...

How about rubber sleeve that is between door and door pillar, pull the rubber sleeve out and you have the wiring exposed to you. If you know the colour of the wire, you're in business.

[HiTorque]

How about rubber sleeve that is between door and door pillar, pull the rubber sleeve out and you have the wiring exposed to you. If you know the colour of the wire, you're in business.

Mate, this was the best idea I got for this case Apparently harness in the rubber boot was damaged and after I slightly fiddled with it I had no controls on the door working neither right blinker. I was actually a bit scared as fuel cap wasn't operational so I called VW and asked to book me in.. I guess the harness needs a replacement which is not good as the car is only 5 y.o. I don't think the harness can be repaired unless someone can prove otherwise. It means VW has specified wire that isn't flexible enough for this application. I googled this and there are dozen of reports from US with Jetta 2006-07 having the same symptoms No power in driver side door - FixYa.

2006 jetta door switches not working properly - TDIClub Forums

I wonder if battery drain had anything to do with it, I would expect having blown fuses if those broken wires were touching the exposed metal.. it feels like vw was designed in S.Africa...

[HiTorque]

..and this is the image:


Two wires brown-green and brown-red cut, three have insulation damaged. I fixed them all though wiring is too stiff for this application and some wires were overstretched.
I will test battery drain current tomorrow, hopefully will be ok.