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Battery standby current

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  • Battery standby current

    Has anybody measured the current that is consumed by the car from battery when it's locked and bonnet is open? I just got a new battery drained over weekend and then with the old one I measured standby current after 1h when all modules suppose to go to sleep mode. It was 0.77 A which I think is 10 times higher than normal rate. Someone was saying in mkV forums that it should be under 70mA.
    I checked - no leakage in alternator, when engine is on - battery negative to chassis is 0V, no AC across the battery - diodes are OK, battery charge voltage: 13.8-14.5V.
    I guess the next step is pulling fuses one by one..
    2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

  • #2
    I found the procedure Tech Tip: Volkswagen Diagnosis for Excessive Static Current Draw need to wait for 2 hours!
    2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

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    • #3
      Important thing is to close the bonnet as the article says. Otherwise here is the link for similar in our forum. http://www.vwwatercooled.org.au/f136...tml#post393486
      0.7A current draw is too high on our Golf it is less than 20mA after short time.
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      • #4
        Done 2.5 hour test, battery is still supplying current at the same rate 0.7A, checked mV across fuses under the bonnet - 4-5 fuses together combine around 0.3A which make me think that ECU is not going to sleep mode...damn will cost a fortune to replace, though I have to check if alternator or starter motor solenoid connection faulty but the battery gets charged, so unlikely ...have to check fuses inside on the driver side
        2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

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        • #5
          Originally posted by HiTorque View Post
          Done 2.5 hour test, battery is still supplying current at the same rate 0.7A, checked mV across fuses under the bonnet - 4-5 fuses together combine around 0.3A which make me think that ECU is not going to sleep mode...damn will cost a fortune to replace, though I have to check if alternator or starter motor solenoid connection faulty but the battery gets charged, so unlikely ...have to check fuses inside on the driver side
          Why does it have to have anything to do with the ECU?

          Find what circuit is drawing the power and go from there. Have you scanned the car with vagcom/VCDS to see if there are any faults? Check everything is coded correctly as well.
          website: www.my-gti.com

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Transporter View Post
            Important thing is to close the bonnet as the article says.
            I left bonnet opened, now I see, but how on earth can I get current clamp output to the meter? I have Fluke...dammit!
            2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

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            • #7
              0.040amps is prob the best when the CAN-BUS has totally gone to sleep
              Does it have a non genuine radio keeping CAN awake
              Also the Gateway has the ability to keep the CAN-BUS awake
              Door control modules can keep it awake too
              Are you doing test with bonnet latch closed/all doors shut and locked?
              Last edited by Guest; 10-06-2010, 07:53 AM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by HiTorque View Post
                Done 2.5 hour test, battery is still supplying current at the same rate 0.7A, checked mV across fuses under the bonnet - 4-5 fuses together combine around 0.3A which make me think that ECU is not going to sleep mode...damn will cost a fortune to replace, though I have to check if alternator or starter motor solenoid connection faulty but the battery gets charged, so unlikely ...have to check fuses inside on the driver side
                I'd get one (or more) of the plug in fuse replacements that have a remote lcd, plug them in to a few locations and position the lcd's so they're visible and lock the car up. Jaycar sell them IIRC.
                website: www.my-gti.com

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by VWweirdo View Post
                  0.040amps is prob the best when the CAN-BUS has totally gone to sleep
                  Does it have a non genuine radio keeping CAN awake
                  Also the Gateway has the ability to keep the CAN-BUS awake
                  Door control modules can keep it awake too
                  Are you doing test with bonnet latch closed/all doors shut and locked?
                  I did the test with opened bonnet as I didn't know it has a status sensor (?), but all doors and trunk closed, locked with remote, 12V power sockets empty.
                  The fuse test under the bonnet after 2.5h wasn't conclusive, but found F24 (10A - Data Bus on Board Diagnostic Module) - 160mA, F31 (30A-Windshild wiper motor) 60mA, F16 (15A -Steering Column Control Module) - 90mA, F3 (20A - Comfort System Central Control Module) up to 90mA. This is why I thought it's still awake. My fuse location map is not quite correct though, I found revision from Oct 2005, my car manufactured before March 2005. Has anybody got a link to fuse maps for all models? VW Golf manual doesn't have references to all fuses. I don't have any electrical mods, non-standard accessories etc
                  Last edited by HiTorque; 10-06-2010, 09:30 AM.
                  2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

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                  • #10
                    I did more testing with brand new battery (12.77V) and closed bonnet. It looks like car wasn't in sleep mode as battery voltage dropped overnight to 12.55V. I wonder if any particular module is responsible for "sleep" activation or any electrically monitored switches are not working like bonnet or trunk. I don't have VAGCOM but three multimeters and Fluke clamping current probe with a lead to meter
                    2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by HiTorque View Post
                      I did more testing with brand new battery (12.77V) and closed bonnet. It looks like car wasn't in sleep mode as battery voltage dropped overnight to 12.55V. I wonder if any particular module is responsible for "sleep" activation or any electrically monitored switches are not working like bonnet or trunk. I don't have VAGCOM but three multimeters and Fluke clamping current probe with a lead to meter
                      It could be just cold temperature overnight. Also, if you start the car with brand new battery and don't drive it for I would say at least 1/2 hour to return the energy you used with just 1 start up than the 12.55V on could morning doesn't indicate problem to me, letting it stand for 2 to 3 days should give better indication if there is parasitic current draw or not.
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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by HiTorque View Post
                        I did more testing with brand new battery (12.77V) and closed bonnet. It looks like car wasn't in sleep mode as battery voltage dropped overnight to 12.55V. I wonder if any particular module is responsible for "sleep" activation or any electrically monitored switches are not working like bonnet or trunk. I don't have VAGCOM but three multimeters and Fluke clamping current probe with a lead to meter
                        I would start with a Vagcom/VCDS check as this will show if there are any faults.

                        As far as sleep mode goes this is pretty reliable if everything is coded correctly (even without it still generally works across the board). Even if one module was faulty (let's say you had one of the cheap chinese headunits that never work properly) the rest of the modules will shut down still with just the one module still running.

                        If the bonnet or a door or the hatch is open the car will still enter sleep mode and lights will still be turned off but it can affect measurements and testing in strange ways, I had a lot of problems working out pinouts on the door controllers as the damn controller kept going into sleep mode and the only way to stop this was opening and closing the door which is hard when half of it is hanging off and you're trying to test.
                        website: www.my-gti.com

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                        • #13
                          Well, he doesn't have Vagcom/VCDS. Next best thing he could do is pull out the fuses (with the current clamp around the battery negative) one by one and see which circuit is responsible for excessive current draw.
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                          • #14
                            done, saw car in sleep mode at least twice - under 40-50mA, with open bonnet and driver door. It doesn't happen however when all doors locked, bonnet opened and central locking is on. I can't shut the bonnet as current clamp is getting jammed and it slightly opens and reading all over the place. I guess central locking module needs some medicine Where is located, pls?
                            2005 Golf V 2.0TDi DSG U/Grey S/roof - SOLD

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                            • #15
                              Maybe it would be worthwhile to check current at all door actuators. The one of them could need adjusting/replacing. As Maverick said it would be much easier diagnosed with Vagcom/VCDS.
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