Weird traction control light problem

[blink]

I think i'm going to need some help here because the dealers doesn't seem to solve the problem.

I have a 06' golf gti with a mid line mfd.
Every morning as i attempt to start my car. The traction control light turns on as i start the engine. Its not the usual kind of blink to check that the light is working. Here's my procedure of starting the car.
Turn the key to start position, wait for all the lights to come on and go off (note, the traction control light would have gone off by now.), then i turn the key to ignition on. As i do that, the traction control light flashes as the engine comes to life. Well, it flashes but doesn't stay on.

I've tried to turn the traction control on and off via the switch and it works as the light stays on when i turn it off. However, the dealers can't seem to find the fault on why the light flashes as i start the engine. To further add to this, the problem usually happens only in the morning or when the engine is cold. Esp since the weather has become cooler in melbourne.

Anyone here experience similar problems to me? If need be i have a video of the light flashing in the morning. (The tech at the dealer saw my video and told me its the computer doing a double check????????) Is that possible? Sounds weird to me.

All help appreciated!

[blink]

Here's a video of the problem which i posted on youtube.

YouTube - Weird Traction control light problem

Hopefully someone can guide me the right way to get rid of this!

[bazzle]

It may be a ecm glitch?
Did the dealer scan the modules?
Can he reflash for you?

Bazzle

[macdoc]

Looks like a low voltage fault - see this kind fault on BMW and its all linked back to the battery.
Verify battery condition, tighten terminals & verify negative lead connection onto chassis & engine, or if older than 4 years just replace.
If you have a multi-meter with 'min&max' voltage setting I can give you some more test ideas.
Macdoc.

[blink]

It may be a ecm glitch?
Did the dealer scan the modules?
Can he reflash for you?

Bazzle

I had left the car with the dealer for about 1 week. They said they needed to replicate the fault before they could come out with solutions to the problem. So I'm not too sure if the problem is a glitch? I'll try asking them to reflash. Otherwise, is it possible to go to an independent garage to seek help?

[blink]

Looks like a low voltage fault - see this kind fault on BMW and its all linked back to the battery.
Verify battery condition, tighten terminals & verify negative lead connection onto chassis & engine, or if older than 4 years just replace.
If you have a multi-meter with 'min&max' voltage setting I can give you some more test ideas.
Macdoc.

I suspected the fault with the battery too because the car doesnt seem to start up as well as it used to. U can hear the engine firing up but it takes a longer time before the engine comes to life. Like u can hear the engine going, chuck chuck chuck, den it fires up. I don't actually have a multi meter, but I am sure the battery is about 4.5 years old now. Should i just change it to rule out this possibility?

[benough]

Yeah I reckon you should just replace it. Would prob solve most of those things.

[blink]

i've got another question, i have searched the forums but can't seem to find others with the exact problem as me.

I had my DSG reflashed recently due to a clank that i heard downshifting from 2-1. However, now i can always feel a stronger vibration in the steering wheel and brake pedals when i am stopped at a red light. when throttle is applied, the car feel fine. I'm not losing power but at times, the car would surge stronger than it used to. I can get rid of this vibration when i put the gear in N. But i know the clutch should engage when u come to a complete stop right? So why would there be such strong vibrations that i can feel through the steering wheel and hear from the front of the engine bay?

[blink]

Yeah I reckon you should just replace it. Would prob solve most of those things.

thanks! i'll probably do just that. Anyone with good reommendations of batteries for the golf gti? I know optima is excellent but the price is a lil too high. Also, any recommended garages to go to for a battery swap? I'm would prefer not to go to the dealer.

Thanks!

[Axis]

I think you'd be better off to buy a multi-meter first. They shouldn't be more than $20 and should save you having to fork out over $100 on a battery... Even if you do use the multi-meter to test it and verify that the battery is the problem you're still better off and you'll have a multi-meter to use in future

[blink]

any specific procedures to measuring the battery voltage? like if the car should be turn on or off?

[bazzle]

Shoulb be about 12v off.

Bazzle

[macdoc]

You will need a second person to help with this procedure, you task is to measure battery voltage across the posts during engine cranking. You will need a mutil-meter with a min / max hold function.
Procedure: Select DC volts on your meter, if its not 'autoranging' then select something above 12 Volts (probably 20V setting), put meter across battery posts and it should indicate somewhere around 12 volts. With the meter STILL connected select min / max function. Get your second person to crank the engine, if it starts thats OK but DONT disconnect the meter. You then must review the data stored in the meter, your looking for the 'min' value. Anything under 9.6 volts showing, your battery is un-serviceable. Replace it. Remember, if your meter is disconnected during the test your new 'min' value will be 0 volts! Also remember to test it when it faults. i.e when its cold. You will get 2 different results from cold engine to hot engine.
Macdoc.

[blink]

You will need a second person to help with this procedure, you task is to measure battery voltage across the posts during engine cranking. You will need a mutil-meter with a min / max hold function.
Procedure: Select DC volts on your meter, if its not 'autoranging' then select something above 12 Volts (probably 20V setting), put meter across battery posts and it should indicate somewhere around 12 volts. With the meter STILL connected select min / max function. Get your second person to crank the engine, if it starts thats OK but DONT disconnect the meter. You then must review the data stored in the meter, your looking for the 'min' value. Anything under 9.6 volts showing, your battery is un-serviceable. Replace it. Remember, if your meter is disconnected during the test your new 'min' value will be 0 volts! Also remember to test it when it faults. i.e when its cold. You will get 2 different results from cold engine to hot engine.
Macdoc.

ok. i guess i'll have to go get a multimeter tomorrow. Also macdoc, when u mention don't disconnect the meter, how long does it have to stay on? after the engine cranks and starts, do i still have to leave the meter connected till i've reviewed the min and max values?

[John Deere]

My traction control light flashes when I mash the accelerator!