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  • #16
    Originally posted by NabzGTI View Post
    If you're budget is strictly 2k, I would suggest things like engine mounts, coilovers, anti lift kit, sway bars etc.. At least that way you will get the extra power you have currently, to the ground and not wasted in 1st and 2nd gear.
    Agreed. In terms of performance, the exhaust will give you squat when compared to good suspension.

    C'mon doods, don't just focus on the engine, bring out the real handling capabilities of these cars and put on decent suspension!!!

    You'll get way more enjoyment from a great suspension setup than another 10kw!

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    • #17
      i was just reading on the apr site... is it true that a simple ECU upgrade for $1500 would get the pirelli from 169kw to 229kw?? or is there some sort of catch? does the $1500 include labour? what do they actually do to the car? i'm kinda new to tuning and some of the terms on the website i don't really get.

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      • #18
        For what it's worth, I've heard the APR downpipe on a mk5 gti here in Brissie, sounds so mean, gives the car a real aggressive 'stance' when accelerating. The Miltek quad tip again adds to this noise, but you have to pay a premium for the full zorst.

        Definitely worth it for the noise in my opinion.

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        • #19
          APR.. Milltek.. X-FORCE.. very similar in performance in my opinion.. just a slightly different note. As long as it comes with a high flow cat.. tig welding.. 2.75 or 3inch all the way through, you should be fine.

          If you're not planning on going further with engine mods (intake and stage 2 tune minimum), dont waste ur money on only an exhaust.

          Good luck with whatever you decide.
          _
          2006 Golf GTI DSG | REVO Stg2+, REVO Stg 1 DSG, X-FORCE TBE, K&N Typhoon CAI, AT HPFP, Forge Twincooler, BSH Stg2+ Catch Can, ECS Mount Insert, DBA 4000 Slotted Rotors

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          • #20
            Originally posted by den525 View Post
            i was just reading on the apr site... is it true that a simple ECU upgrade for $1500 would get the pirelli from 169kw to 229kw?? or is there some sort of catch? does the $1500 include labour? what do they actually do to the car? i'm kinda new to tuning and some of the terms on the website i don't really get.
            Yes that sounds about right. All they do is plug a laptop into your OBD2 port, make a few config changes to your ECU.. 15-20 minutes later, you have 40-60kw more depending on application. Note: some software tunes require certain hardware before they can be applied.
            _
            2006 Golf GTI DSG | REVO Stg2+, REVO Stg 1 DSG, X-FORCE TBE, K&N Typhoon CAI, AT HPFP, Forge Twincooler, BSH Stg2+ Catch Can, ECS Mount Insert, DBA 4000 Slotted Rotors

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            • #21
              2k will get u a intake and downpipe, and then u can get a update to the APR tune and about another 10kw/15nm

              Personally, stg 1 is fine for power, but suspension will be money better spent.
              coils or a Eibach Prokit setup (Eibach springs, Koni FSD shocks from mjm/redline/namotorsports etc will cost u $1kusd), and then a anti lift kit and rear sway will make your jaw drop.

              that'd be about 2k total and where my money would go in a instant. (well, its where it did go )

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              • #22
                Originally posted by isaw View Post
                2k will get u a intake and downpipe, and then u can get a update to the APR tune and about another 10kw/15nm

                Personally, stg 1 is fine for power, but suspension will be money better spent.
                coils or a Eibach Prokit setup (Eibach springs, Koni FSD shocks from mjm/redline/namotorsports etc will cost u $1kusd), and then a anti lift kit and rear sway will make your jaw drop.

                that'd be about 2k total and where my money would go in a instant. (well, its where it did go )
                yep what he said. Absolutely no question.

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                • #23
                  All depends what sort of driving you do. I would definatelty be doing the suspension then save a bit more for some sticky rubber. People seem to forget the benefit of forged lightweight wheels which are 10 pounds lighter per wheel... then you are over budget though I guess.

                  And question ppls..... power wise, you are better off doing your dump pipe rather than cat back... is this correct?


                  APR S2/Whiteline/H&R/Enkei/Carbonio/13.68@101/Winton-1:44.52

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                  • #24
                    Downpipe will get you 15hp/10tq (maybe more), cat back will get you 1hp/1tq (maybe less) the cat back is mainly for noise.

                    You need to understand chasing power becomes VERY expensive after stg 1. Its not like a jap where u can bolt on a GT9001 turbo and run 10's on street tyres, so accept the fact you will never be a HP hero. Once you do you'll be alot happier. if you cant come to terms with this, buy a jap rice burner.

                    Where the car shines more that most is twisties and overall speed through corners. I was only a second off a evo10 around mount cotton last month with basic mods.. (eg exactly whats listed above)

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by isaw View Post
                      Downpipe will get you 15hp/10tq (maybe more), cat back will get you 1hp/1tq (maybe less) the cat back is mainly for noise.

                      You need to understand chasing power becomes VERY expensive after stg 1. Its not like a jap where u can bolt on a GT9001 turbo and run 10's on street tyres, so accept the fact you will never be a HP hero. Once you do you'll be alot happier. if you cant come to terms with this, buy a jap rice burner.

                      Where the car shines more that most is twisties and overall speed through corners. I was only a second off a evo10 around mount cotton last month with basic mods.. (eg exactly whats listed above)
                      There's some wisdom in there. I forget how many times I've said similar things to people. You can get good horsepower, great horsepower - but there comes a time when you need to stop and focus on the other areas that makes these cars so great. Their relative light weight being the primary one.

                      Get the suspension/brakes/weight sorted as the first priority and you'll love the results.

                      For those who can afford K04, go for it - it's fantastic. Once you have a tuned K04 with the usual bolt-ons, this is a good time to stop.... Anything between 170-190kw ATW on regular 98 fuel is about all you'll get before you start going nuts with the engine (and huge $$$)...

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