If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed, registering will remove the in post advertisements. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
This means you should apply for your renewal now to avoid any disruptions to your membership whilst the renewal process is taking place! NOTE: If you have an auto renewing subscription this will happen automatically.
Testing went fine - makes more HP & Torque exactly as advertised, filter by itself, no discernible difference, but carbon intake (cold air only) combined with filter make a good difference
Testing went fine - makes more HP & Torque exactly as advertised, filter by itself, no discernible difference, but carbon intake (cold air only) combined with filter make a good difference
Ok so you say you tested the intake . Where are the results ? What was airflow measured before and after using MAF ????
I could use some duct tape and cover the lower hole on intake and also claim it makes more hp and the Unique Thermal Barrier Composite in duct tape Ensures Low Inlet Temperatures , but without any real data ,well , its just hot air
Bug_racer supports the rebellion of the euro revolution
interesting link that I've been following for a while.
after reading the 10+ pages, the consensus is that if you have a S3/ED30 K04 APR kit (mouthful) you shouldn't run an aftermarket air intake setup, cuz you'll have issues.
Guy, i understand that you may have changed aftermarket CAIs on aftermarket and factory equipped K04ed cars to Carbonios, but I'd put money that most if not all of them are running your APR tune (and hence would backup the general consensus of the link you posted earlier).
I have a K04 VF Engineering intake with a GIAC tune and have no issues. Many other K04ed cars on www.mk5golfgti.co.uk are running Evoms, NS, Forge, instakes etc with Revo and Bluefin tunes also with no problems.
It's unfair to say that all K04's have issues with aftermarket CAIs, cuz they don't, and the only ones that seem to, are running APR (again according to the link).
I've had a number of Pirelli owners PM me saying that they'd love an aftermarket intake but are scared of the misfires and surges described.
It's good that you had posted that link to bring attention to the issue, but the more you read, the more you see that the problem is clearly the APR tune combined with aftermarket intakes.
Thanks for the ride Tim, you certainly gave me something to think about with theair intake.. Im still doing a heap of research on this product but i did like the evo set up.
As for the arguement bteween Guy and Big Yellow,
i would also like to see how efective the air filter itself is without the rest of the component. If the filter is where all the goodness is why spend $600 on a full carbonio kit when you can just spend $120 on a good filter and get same performance....
Thanks for the ride Tim, you certainly gave me something to think about with theair intake.. Im still doing a heap of research on this product but i did like the evo set up.
As for the arguement bteween Guy and Big Yellow,
i would also like to see how efective the air filter itself is without the rest of the component. If the filter is where all the goodness is why spend $600 on a full carbonio kit when you can just spend $120 on a good filter and get same performance....
Just out of curiosity will there be a difference between alloy pipe work and plastic/silicon pipe work, between the two above?????
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I "assume" the alloy (being metal) will absorb & hold the engine heat over the silicon pipe work, which I guess is bad. Or am I wrong?
not sure about the answer to your question but with the pirelli you have to run a k04 specific intake because of the relocated dv position
i run the vf k04 intake on mine
They don't give any Extra HP's that's a myth, they only make a better air flow to the engine, plus the sound, nothing else......
Cheers!
Increasing air in is definately part of the recipe for more power. Thing is with a standard tune, the difference will be SFA, and it's also assuming the air filter/ box is the bottleneck, which in the diesels at least, now that I've had it entirely apart, I don't think it's so. The EGR mechanism bore is vastly smaller and restrictive in the TDI's, but I digress.....
What a pod definately does, is allow better response. If you're sucking hot engine bay air, forget it, you actually just lost far more than you'd ever gain. Out of a well sealed box, the difference is noticable, but barely so. I'm in the middle of fabbing up a carbon fibre front for my Modshack, and am currently running a bare Apexi pod, and it is definately more prone to idle heat, but the diesel seems to rev more freely, remember in a tractor you notice these things. Perhaps it's just the extra sound, I wouldn't be suprised.
Overall flow and power output on a stock road engine - I doubt you'd dyno anything at all, but as to how quickly the turbo can spool, the response, I am a firm believer that a well designed, straight as possible inlet with a decent pod makes a difference. But I agree the differences here are tiny at best.
Just out of curiosity will there be a difference between alloy pipe work and plastic/silicon pipe work, between the two above?????
Correct me if I’m wrong, but I "assume" the alloy (being metal) will absorb & hold the engine heat over the silicon pipe work, which I guess is bad. Or am I wrong?
What are your thoughts???
Fraid if you look closely the second black pipe is welded, thus obviously metal. The second kit has an excellent airbox, shielded from engine bay heat, but as black paint is the worlds best colour to absorb heat, I'd choose shiny, reflective pipework over matt black. Looks cool, but would definately be the worst possible colour for heat retention. That said, with a well designed heat shield, and possibly some thermal wrapping / insulation on the part behnd the engine, I reckon it's a darn good setup. Definately a better design than the first open pod design, which would be sucking in hot engine bay air, and your response after idling at the lights would be terrible. I measure about 60 degrees being sucked into my open front Modshack after only a minute of idling, and that's with it right up against the air inlet, with it mostly sealed off, like a 1cm gap at most. I'm making a full fibreglass / carbon front at the moment, and running a bare pod as of today, and at the lights the off idle response after a bit of an idle is terrible. Sounds fully sik though bro.
Buy the second one and insulate the pipe is my vote.
Comment