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  • #16
    What toolbox fails to recognise is that a car company is going to recommend whatever causes the least warranty issues. Obviously they won't care if an engine is down on power and uses oil as that won't cost them any money.

    No race team follows the kind of "baby it" for the first few thousand k's that VW and other car companies recommend. Usually 500-600k's after engine has been assembled its straight onto the dyno for a full power tune at maximum load.

    When you consider that cars get delivered having been partially run in on engine dyno's and then driven onto and off of boats etc. Your window for getting piston rings to seat is very small. Once your bore cross hatching has worn away, thats it. You can't ever get the piston rings to bed in properly until you rebuild the motor.

    I know toolbox won't understand my post as he is "tireless rebutter" from flamewarriors. You can paste your meaningless drivel after each sentence I have written as per usual.

    Bore cross hatching below:
    Last edited by POLARBEAR666; 28-05-2009, 06:32 PM.
    *Disclaimer - Don't rely on me, seek your own professional advice. Audi R8 E-tron. 230kw 4500nm! (not a typo).
    Economy at 100kph =5.5L

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    • #17
      Penrite run in oil is designed to assist the crosshatching cutting the rings to be a perfect match. Generally, fully synthetic oils are too slippery, and the crosshatching so perfectly pointed out by Polar gets worn down, but the syn oil lubricates the ring too well, and it doesn't "cut" an optimal seal. All rings get blowby, and that's power being wasted, oil getting burnt, and extra fuel being used at a given speed.

      Not that you have to use it, but the Penrite link explains the bed in process, and my last car a BA GT was run in on this stuff over the mountains twice for the first 500kms. I made it pull 3rd from 20kph up all the hills, foot to the floor. Used a stack of gas, but never sped, nor revved much. It produced very healthy dyno figures stock every time, and was faster than it should have been at the lights. Mabey I was just lucky. At least i know I did all I could!

      http://www.penriteoil.com.au/product...running-in_oil

      You'd be mad to try and run in the R32 with the missus in the car, as it's all about NOT driving constant and smooth! Chicks would wig out!
      Last edited by Greg Roles; 28-05-2009, 08:13 PM.
      2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

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      • #18
        Originally posted by cogdoc View Post
        If it were me, with a new R32, I'd not take it.

        The age old debate, but again, I'd use penrites specific run in oil for 500kms, dump it, and move onto VW's recommendation. If my diesel didn't need 507 for the PD and DPF, well it would have had the penrite run in as well.

        Polar is saying the right thing, the wrong way. You want to LOAD the engine, make it pull higher gears to maximise the peak cylinder pressure to load the rings, but revving the car and flogging the tranny, diff, brakes and tyres isn't smart. You can load the engine, stay within speed limits, and properly bed in all the other mechanical components by simply shifting up early and making the motor lug a bit. Vary the revs and speeds, no need to head near the last thousand rpm.

        It all happens in the first few hundred km in a petrol car anyhow, and it's true the factory has done most of it already. Still that first hundred km's is vital in my humble opinion.

        Each to their own, enjoy your car.

        And YES before anyone lectures me on oils, putting in a non VW spec oil to run it in with IS risking your warranty.....but I'd do it, worked marvels on my last new car.
        Greg, I believe Penrite have a 507 diesal oil?you no doubt know this but do you use it?
        Current:12 Golf GTD, Mods on order -Bluefin Remap, Mods planned-plenty
        Former:08 GT Sport TDI DSG Bluefin, HPA SHS Coilovers,H&R Swaybars with Whiteline Adj Links

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        • #19
          Originally posted by brad View Post
          Take the scenic route through the Snowy Mountains? (Snowy Mts Highway is good IIRC)

          Are you driving it straight out of the showroom & up to Canberra? That's about the only situation that should concern you. If you've already got a couple of hundred kilometres on the odometer then a trip to Canberra won't be an issue.

          Drive it "normally".
          Any sign of an incline, change down gears so that you are varying the revs.
          Don't try & drive for maximum economy.
          Don't use cruise control.

          Above all, stop worrying & enjoy the car.
          I'm 100% with Brad, I'll do that for sure, maybe in your way back after ran it nice and cute, you can have some fun in your return, anyway drive safe

          Good on you for that R32.....I already envy you

          Cheers!
          .:Polo 6R 77TSI
          .:Golf MK6 GTI

          II Kraftwerk

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          • #20
            Originally posted by POLARBEAR666 View Post
            What toolbox fails to recognise is that a car company is going to recommend whatever causes the least warranty issues. Obviously they won't care if an engine is down on power and uses oil as that won't cost them any money.
            And your proof of this is where, that's right you have no proof other then your beloved website for snowmobiles

            And of course people are not going to complain if the car lacks power or has a check engine light come on all the time because of excessive oil usage

            No race team follows the kind of "baby it" for the first few thousand k's that VW and other car companies recommend. Usually 500-600k's after engine has been assembled its straight onto the dyno for a full power tune at maximum load.
            You seem unable to grasp the concept that the engines in our cars are not race engines that are used for one-two races and then pulled apart and rebuilt

            And if you bothered to read your manual it doesn't state anywhere that you should "baby" the engine, it provides clear instructions on the best way to run the engine in as determined by Volkswagen engineers who know a hell of a lot more about it then some lawyer in training does

            When you consider that cars get delivered having been partially run in on engine dyno's and then driven onto and off of boats etc. Your window for getting piston rings to seat is very small. Once your bore cross hatching has worn away, thats it. You can't ever get the piston rings to bed in properly until you rebuild the motor.
            Driving on and off the boats adds a lot of kilometers doesn't it. You've yet to provide anything that proves this "theory" of yours and there is no evidence that following Volkswagens run in instructions (which are the same as every other manufacturer) causes any problems

            I know toolbox won't understand my post as he is "tireless rebutter" from flamewarriors. You can paste your meaningless drivel after each sentence I have written as per usual.
            How about backing up your outlandish claims with some real credible information?
            Last edited by Maverick; 29-05-2009, 08:19 AM.
            website: www.my-gti.com

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            • #21
              Originally posted by stormshark View Post
              Greg, I believe Penrite have a 507 diesal oil?you no doubt know this but do you use it?
              At my time of purchase a year back, the Penrite offerings still had too much ash content, thus speeding up DPF blocking. I would have given my left nut for a mineral oil to run it in on, but I couldn't find anything that was a suitable risk in my opinion. That damn PD cam requires huge shear properties from the oil, and the DPF, well, it's an additional challenge.

              Thanks for the tip, I'll look into it again, as it may have changed!
              2014 Skoda Yeti TDI Outdoor 4x4 | Audi Q3 CFGC repower | Darkside tune and Race Cams | Darkside dump pDPF | Wagner Comp IC | Snow Water Meth | Bilstein B6 H&R springs | Rays Homura 2x7 18 x 8" 255 Potenza Sports | Golf R subframe | Superpro sways and bushings | 034 engine mounts | MK6 GTI brakes |

              Comment


              • #22
                polar - as maverick says, car engines and motorbike engines are quite different in final construction. material quality is the biggest thing - car engines are designed to go for at least 250,000km without a rebuild. Intended useage is different and as a result so is the build.
                Last edited by Guest212; 09-01-2012, 04:44 PM.

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                • #23
                  I reckon this is a perfect opportunity. You should however not go via the Hume but the victorian coast/snowys way!

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